Hi Glenda,

I was wondering where you'd been, and assuming you were outside working your way through the 'to do' list. It sounds like you've been really busy and are on-track to have a great gardening season.

We had a frost here as recently as last week, but I think that was probably our last one. I often have a later freeze that lots of forum members who are 100 miles, or more, north of me because cold air settles into low spots and you can't get a whole lot lower in elevation than we are here in the Red River valley.

Here's what I have in the ground so far: onions (4 varieties), potatoes (about 15 varieties, I'm not sure I've actually counted them), carrots (5 varieties), broccoli (3 varieties), cabbage (2 varieties), lettuce (6 varieties), Sugar Snap and Super Sugar Snap peas, Texas Honey June corn (about 2" tall right now) and tons of various herbs and flowers. We also have strawberries and bush beans (Top Crop) in our granddaughter's little garden.

Beginning today, I'm transplanting tomatoes, to be followed later in the week, I hope, by the planting of all kinds of beans. Next week I'll probably start transplanting peppers. I have about a dozen pepper varieties hardening off now, and I have seedlings of slicing cucumbers, yellow crookneck squash and zucchini ready to go into the ground any time now. I'm just waiting for the nights to warm up before some of those go into the ground.

Much remains to be planted sometime after I finish the tomatoes, and planting the tomatoes will take me all week, because each one is planted, well-mulched, caged, staked and labeled, and then I plant companion plants in between them and as a border around them. I am a VERY SLOW and deliberate tomato planter, but once they're planted, I seldom have to do any maintenance other than picking tomatoes or pruning off limbs that stick out into the pathways.

Somewhere down the road, I'll be planting sweet potatoes, melons, winter squash, pumpkins, and melons, but the soil and air temps are not even close to being right for those yet.

Keep us posted on how your seed-starting, transplants and planting are progressing. Sometimes I forget you're on a different timetable from many of us.

Dawn

Glenda,
It sounds like you are closer to my planting schedule than that of many forum members here. Most are ahead of me also.

I have tomatoes growing under the lights and around 50 growing in the cold frame. I will be starting to pot up within the next week. Will move some of them to the hot frame after I do that. Then harden them off out of there. If I get the greenhouse finished among my other projects will move the rest to it shortly. Tomato germination ended up ok. Maybe not as good as normal. Won't know for sure till I pot up and tally. Out of 100 varieties and on some seeds from two or more sources I ended up with 5 no shows. I only had one seed of one and it was older. Another I had one come up and it didn't shed the seed cover and died. Two I had planted only two seeds of. The other I planted 4 seeds of. I replanted two of them to check the seed. So should know in a few days. I planted ten seeds of one on the replant and the last two seeds I had of another. But overall figure I have over 80%. And it could be a lot higher when I tally. The last tray of tomatoes I left the dome on for a few days when I moved it under lights. Something I have never done before but some of the guru's on the chat site I frequent do. Every cell germinated. I would guess germination on that tray might be 98%. The first two trays I used a Fertilome seed starting mix. The 3rd and the peppers I used a Miracle Grow mix. Many times you never know what the differences are. My biggest plants will be 2 weeks old Tuesday and are starting their second set of true leaves.

My pepper germination has been slow and poor so far. At 12 days now. I used a heating pad and then when I moved under the lights a few days after the first few popped up Ileft the clear dome on for several days along with a pad to hopefully help. I removed it yesterday and just left the pad underneath. One or two a day. I might be buying plants if things don't pick up. I've had peppers some years take longer. Last year at 14 days I had 85% germination. I'm going on day 12 and might have 25%.

My garlic is growing well now. Have around 700 onions, 80 leeks, 80 cippolini's and 20 shallots in the ground and growing. I got almost 2/3 in and then the snow/rain and cold hit. Was about 5 days before I finished the rest. Really a difference in them.

Planted my first radishes, sugar snaps and sweet corn last week. Will try to get my first cukes and squash in this week. And maybe a few beans. I will either put a row cover over them or milk jugs around them. Also try to get out my potatoes this week. I don't plant a lot of potatoes.

Ate my first mess of asparagus last week. Picking every day or so now. My horseradish is greening up. Apples are about to bloom. Think the frost got the peach blooms Thursday night.

My soil temps is in the mid 60's now and rising almost every day. The nights are supposed to be warmer this coming week. So that should help also.

The tomatoes I started in the cold frame have germinated well. And growing but not near as fast as those inside. Sure they are growing a good root system. I'm opening one half of the top most days now. And on those days I don't open it I prop it open 3-4 inches before heading to work.

Did get in six Texas tomato cages Friday. I had to assemble one. I will say they look nice. I'm not convinced they are any better than a CRW cage. The other positive is they fold up for storage. They will need to be tied to a post or something for support like I do the CRW's. And bought two grates ( one 4' x12' and the other 4' x 7 ') to use for plants shelves when I ever finish my greenhouse yesterday at an auction where a manufacturer closed their doors. They are a hard composite plastic. With 1" squares. So should work well. They are water resistant.

I have finished the early spraying of the mustard weed and henbit.

Overall like you Glenda it is still early here. I'm pushing things a little. But always do. I just pick my what I push a little more carefully than I used too. I never push peppers or okra. And not tomatoes like I used to. Some of the others are fair game. I feel if I lose them I will just replant. Keep us informed how your season goes. Jay

Jay the germination thing is interesting. This year I was more careful with seeds because I always get too many so just allowed l or 2 tomato seeds. Germination was slower and not as good as in the past. The only thing I did different was I used Miracle Grow potting mix for seedlings.....I won't use it again. Also the seedlings I don't think are growing as fast.

Normally, I use a professional potting mix; I think no. 2 which is very fine that I get at a specialty (not big box) store. It is much better.

I always cover my flats with a sheet of very light weight plastic and tuck the ends under the plant light stand but let the sides hang loose for air. I never have to water until germination is complete.

Peppers are coming up very spotty. I was stingy with those seeds too.

Dawn what companion plant do you use with the tomatoes. I want those babies to have all the comforts of home this year and PRODUCE!

Glenda,
In most cases we never know why seeds don't germinate. Sometimes we blame the handling in the mail, old seeds, seeds not saved correctly and most of the time I'm just not certain of the reason. A few of these seeds were older. And two of the varieties were from the same source. But again there is one variety I sent Dawn she got no germination of and I got 100% on it. Seeds from the same bag. And seeds I saved. I would blame the handling in the mail. But why didn't it effect the other seeds in that envelope? And many blame the seed starting mixes. I'm not so sure about that either. Why does seeds on all sides germinate and certain cells and varieties don't? I think sometimes in my case planting so few seeds I'm taking a gamble to start with. If only two seeds fail I have zero germination. The Fertilome mix was very fine. Once I removed the domes hard to keep moist. It is getting hard for find a good seed starting mix here. I'm thinking of buying a pallet and just storing it in the greenhouse and selling some to anyone wanting some. Jay

Glenda,

It might be easier to list the plants I don't use as companions for tomatoes, but I'll try. I don't put all of these in every raised bed that has tomato plants, but just mix some of them into every bed. Remember that I have described my garden as a crazy quilt of mixed veggies, herbs and flowers? After you see this list, you'll understand why. First, I plant the tomatoes, usually 3' apart and then I add the companion plants in between tomato plants, along the edge of the raised bed as a border, etc.

Borage--I usually grow the blue-flowered one, and every now and then the white-flowered one. Generally these reseed, but I haven't seen any pop up in any of the beds yet, so I may plant some seed soon. Borage protects against tomato hornworms. Borage also attracts incredible amounts of bees and tiny beneficial wasps. Improves tomato growth and flavor when grown in the same bed.

Petunias repel tomato hornworms.

Garlic planted in close proximity to tomatoes helps repel spider mites.

I usually plant calendula and nasturtiums to attract beneficial insects and count on all the beneficials to keep the 'bad bugs' under control.

My main strategy to keep tomato hornworms away is to plant other plants they like outside of and away from the veggie garden. Those plants, hopefully, lure the hornworms to them. These plants include dill, which hornworms like, and daturas, which I plant about 20' from the garden. I usually plant a few leftover tomato plants outside the garden and when I find a hornworm on a tomato plant (especially early in the year when I have more patience and don't feel insanely rushed), I'll move it to the extra tomato plants outside the garden. I love the sphinx moths, but hate the damage the cats do to the tomatoes themselves, so putting extra plants outside the garden gives them a place to go and helps protect the tomato plants inside the garden.

Chives--improve growth and flavor of tomatoes and also repel aphids (I almost never have aphids in my garden)

Marigolds--I use the small-flowered ones. They repel many insects.

Catnip repels flea beetles and aphids. It does attract cats, so don't plant it too close to young tomato plants or cats that come to roll on the catnip plants will roll on and squash the young tomato plants. (I cage my catnip until it is about a foot tall, and that protects it from the cats!)

Basil--improves growth and flavor; is said to repel thrips, but I don't have thrips so I can't say if the basil repels them or if they just aren't here for some other reason. Opal basil repels hornworms.

Cilantro--instead of harvesting it, leave it in the bed and let it bloom. The tiny flowers attract beneficial insects. Cilantro also repels aphids and spider mites.

Sweet Alyssum is another great plant for attracting beneficial insects.

Parsley--If you can keep the black swallowtail cats from devouring all of it, let it bloom. The flowers attract hover flies and beneficial insects. So does chamomile, and my chamomile is in full bloom right now.

I also scatter a few other herbs around the garden that attract beneficial insects, including lemon balm, catmint, mint, Mexican mint marigold, sage, lavender and rosemary.

I always try to plant lots and lots of flowers. In a good year, I'll have about 30 or 40 kinds of flowers in the borders around the veggie garden. In addition to all those previously mentioned, I usually have Texas hummingbird sage, salvia farinacea, scarlet sage, yarrow, veronica, hollyhocks, four o'clocks, zinnias (many kinds of them), begonias, dusty miller, larkspur, poppies, morning glories, moonflower vine, Angel's Trumpets (brugmansia), pink evening primrose (yes, weedy and invasive!), gladiolas, cypress vine, black-eyed susan vine, cardinal climber vine, purple hyacinth bean vine....I could go on forever. I have found that the more herbs and flowers I have everywhere...inside and outside of the fenced veggie garden, the more butterflies, bees and beneficial insects I have and the less pest-type insects I have. It makes it all so beautiful....but drives some of my 'old farmer' friends nuts. One of them, who passed away a couple of years ago when he was about 95 years old, used to ask me "Why do you waste garden space on all those weeds". Clearly he didn't appreciate my companion plants, but he was happy to eat the veggies I gave him. lol

I hope that info helps. If I could only put in 4 or 5 types of companion plants for tomatoes, I'd likely focus on basil, borage, marigolds, chives, and catnip.

Dawn

Jay. I wish we lived closer. I would share the pallet!
When my sis had her greenhouse running, she bought by the pallet and would bring me a couple of large bags when she came down. I think back then they cost me around $11. The price has skyrocketed now but I sure liked the quality. We have a Hummert's International in Springfield. I am going to check with them. They also supply commercial greenhouses on the wholesale side.

Looks like I will be fine on tomato seedlings but may be short on some peppers which were old seeds too....very old. That could be the problem. It is frustrating not to be able to pin anything down.

Dawn thanks a bunch for taking time to list all those.
Would you believe I grow most of them already!

I have a sort of border in the garden now,and the garage wall border is inside the garden. I think it is brome that has almost taken over that bed so I need to so some serious renovations. It has so many perennials in it and bronze fennel that it will be a real challange.

I will be transplanting some petunias when they begin popping up. I have never been able to get sweet alyssum to germinate in the ground. I need to try planting in containers.

Lots of food for thought about all these things.

Hi Glenda,

I figured you had many or most of those already because I've seen your photos and know you have lots and lots of flowers!

Sweet alyssum gives me fits too. I think it is because the seed is so small. I have a hard time starting it from seed, but then it will reseed itself some years with no help from me whatsoever. Isn't that how it always goes?

I'm the opposite of you and Jay this year, I have way too many pepper plants...one flat of hot pepper plants, one flat of sweet pepper plants, and (God help me) three flats of ornamental pepper plants. I'm not really worried about where all the ornamental pepper plants will go because I can tuck them into flower borders and containers. I am trying to figure out where I'll put all the hot and sweet peppers.

I found out last year (laughing at myself here) that you really CAN have too many peppers. (Sort of like your pumpkin harvest.) The week that I had the main pepper harvest and had all those bowls and bowls of peppers sitting all over the kitchen (can't remember if it was 1600 or 1800 peppers) and Tim was out of town and I was canning, salsa-ing, roasting, jellying, freezing and dehydrating 18 hours a day all week....it was a nightmare. On the other hand, I still have a year's supply of peppers in the freezer, and probably a year's supply of pepper jelly in the root cellar, and perhaps a lifetime supply of dried, ground up pepper powder. Everyone who works with Tim got jars of salsa and pepper jelly or candied jalapenos for Christmas...I think we gave away about 200 jars, and we still have a good amount of salsa and jelly left. Of course, we're still months away from another pepper harvest too.

I wish you and Jay were closer and I could give you some of my extra pepper plants. Now, you just watch, this year we'll have drought and all the pepper plants I have won't produce 1/4th the harvest I had last year, because there's no way I can water the plants like the rainfall did last year....we had 53" of rain here where it is more normal to get between 18 and 35". No wonder the peppers and tomatoes did so well.

I expect drought here this year. Our local drought may already have begun here, with below-average rainfall in March and April, and that's a real concern since March-April-May are usually our 'rainy season' and that will mean substantially lower harvests. Our ground has good soil moisture a few inches down, but the ponds are drying up quickly and usually they're full to overflowing about now. It is odd to have below-average spring rainfall and it makes me nervous. The water level at Lake Texoma is the lowest its been since the drought ended last April. It certainly isn't low enough for anyone to be worried, but it normally isn't this low during the rainy season.

The weather here in southern OK is going to be almost perfect this week....lower wind than we've had the last few weeks, highs in the 70s, lows in the 50s or 60s, and only a slight chance of rainfall most days. If ever there was a perfect week for planting, I think this will be it. I hope the weather is as nice there for you as it will be here.

Dawn

Dawn, a couple of your statements intrigued me. The first is that "Petunias repel tomatoe hornworms", when, in fact, they are also in the same family (Solonaceae) as tomatoes and people find that the hornworms eat their Petunias. It might be good to attract them away from the Tomatoe plants. But they don't repel them. In fact, the adult moth loves to nectar on Petunias, so I would plant them far from your tomatoes to avoid having a gravid female laying eggs on your tomatoe plants. Petunias are not one of the moths favorite food plants, but they will use them as an alternative if there are no Tomatoes around. In fact, the best solution to avoid having the moths lay their eggs on Tomatoes would be to have no flowers that they like to nectar on.

The second is that Tomatoe Hornworms like Dill as well. Any caterpillars found on Dill are usually Black Swallowtail cats. I have found some smaller generalist moth caterpillars on Dill, but it is not a host plant for them. It is in a totally different family, Apiaceae.

I don't usually get enough moths laying eggs on my tomatoes to worry about them. I just change them to the humongous Datura I have and they are happy there and I like having them around for pollination, too.

Susan

I found this on a companion planting website...

"PETUNIAS: They repel the asparagus beetle, leafhoppers, certain aphids, tomato worms, Mexican bean beetles and general garden pests. A good companion to tomatoes, but plant everywhere. The leaves can be used in a tea to make a potent bug spray. "

I did not know this, I'll be happy to test this statement this year and report back.

I did have problems last year with hornworms so I'm sure they will try to get back to my garden.

Here is a link that might be useful: http://www.ghorganics.com/page2.html

Susan,

I realize they are in the same family, but in my garden, potatoes or tomatoes interplanted with petunias rarely have tomato hornworm issues, and I believe I first learned to interplant them from an old gardener here in southern OK. I was pretty skeptical at first when she told me to interplant them but figured I had nothing to lose, but it seems to work and it works best if you plant one petunia plant in between each potato plant or tomato plant in an alternating pattern. I thought maybe it worked by attracting the hornworms to the petunias, but that isn't the explanation because I don't see damage on the petunias. It is baffling, but I don't care why it seems to work, only that it does.

As far as the dill-hornworm connection, I cannot explain it, but I will find hornworms on tomato plants in a row where dill is planted in the same bed, and not on tomatoes in a bed with no dill. So I can only conclude the dill attracts them somehow even though they don't feed on the dill. I used to put my dill in the beds with the tomatoes, figuring the tiny flowers would attract parasitic wasps, but it didn't seem to work and those nearby tomato plants had more hornworms than others, not less. I've grown dill for BSTs for well over a decade and in fact probably for 15 years but I no longer grow it in the same rows as my tomatoes and try to plant it as far away from the toms as I can.

With anywhere from 140 to 400 tomato plants per year, I have learned what does and doesn't work to repel hornworms (or, accidentally, to attract them) and think that's why I have so little trouble with them. In a good year, I won't see hardly any in my garden...maybe a half-dozen, which is remarkable considering how many there are here. I often will see tomato hornworms crawling across the road when I'm out walking the dogs. I guess they're going from one pasture full of wild solanaceas to another. In a bad year, I might see a couple of dozen hornworms, which isn't bad in a garden of 100+ tomato plants. I walk a fine line with them because I like the sphinx moths, but I don't like wormy tomatoes so I try to repel them from the garden while attracting them to other parts of the landscape.

Dawn