I wish I had had all this advice about 7 years ago when I planned my first hosta garden under spruce trees. I alloted the correct space for each hosta's mature size but didn't realize that they wouldn't attain this size because of the root competition from the spruce trees. I've been filling in with smaller hostas, Brunnera, Heuchera and other shade tolerant perennials which I can remove easily should the need arise. 'Blue Angel' hasn't reached its potential but 'Bressingham Blue' has exceeded it. MY 'Sagae' wasn't doing well either . After 6 years I dug it up and discovered wonderful root development but scant top growth, so now I'm adding compost around my hostas in the fall and fertilize regularly. I've noticed a difference. Regarding my hole preparation , in the past I dug a hole for each hosta twice the size of the pot, added a handful of bone meal and amended the soil with 1/3 mushroom compost, 1/3 potting soil with the idea being that the hosta would develop quickly in light soil. Only problem was the tree roots also liked this light medium. Secondly, the hostas settled too deep in the hole and so now I make sure to compact the bottom of the hole with water, make a mound and drape the hosta roots over the mound. I no longer add potting soil. In addition to the bonemeal, I add a handful of alfalfa pellets and my hostas seem to be growing better. If I have trouble with compacted clay I add gravel to the bottom of my planting hole and add gypsum to the soil. This forum is great. I've learned a lot from the regulars here. I'm going to investigate agroliners for future use. Like others, I no longer try to move larger hostas. Each new one gets a permanent home and if it gets too large I chop small pieces from the sides. One of the nursery owners nearby who has a large hosta collection at his home told me he often just tears off the outer leaves if the hosta gets too big. Hope you've learned from my mistakes. AND I've decided to take wrestling lessons from hubby so I don't get "PINNED" by those large hostas.

Sheri, Oh, it is drooling time! I can almost taste the tomatoes now. Sungold, Persimmon, and Cherokee Chocolate: if you get ripe tomatoes from only these three plants, you'll still think it is the best tomato year ever, taste-wise! Dr. Wyche's has always done better for me than Kellogg's Breakfast, but then, I have grown DWY for 5 or 6 years and KB for only 2, so Dr. Wyche's has had more opportunity to excell. Dr. Wyche's is a pretty heavy producer, and quite tasty. It also shows great disease resistance. Black Zebra is a very attractive-looking tomato, but I think Black Pineapple (which isn't really black at all, LOL) tastes much better. I have found that every striped tomato I've ever grown has looked pretty, and tasted no better than average. (sigh) Well, I take that back--the one exception is Indian Stripe. Momotaro is probably better than Carmello, but then, your taste buds and your growing conditions are different from mine, so you might find the opposite to be true. I do not think you'll be disappointed in Momotaro though. I haven't grow Alamo. We love Sweet Million and Black Plum, which is our postal carrier's favorite tomato ever since I started sharing them with her several years ago. You're right--I wasn't wild about Japanese Black Trifele, but lots of people love it, so maybe it was just me. Your Mystery Surprise is probably either a tomato that "lost its label" during the seedling growing process, or is from a new grow-out that DJ is trialing and perhaps hasn't even named yet. (I think mysteries and surprises are fun!) Yellow Platfoot Brandywine is yummy, and so is Black Pear. Brandy Boy is the best. If I could only grow one variety, this might be it. There are a few that taste better, but NONE of them can match BB's heavy production and disease resistance. And, even though there are a few that I think taste better than BB, none of them is loads and loads better, only a little better. I don't think I have grown Black Pearl, but isn't it a smallish tomato, more like Black Cherry? I think it is the Burpee hybrid that is said to taste more like a Concord grape after it has been refrigerated? If it even comes close to tasting like Black Cherry, it will be a real winner. I can tell you are ready to get the plants going. Have fun, but be careful and watch the weather. I feel sure we have another freeze or two to get through before Old Man Winter departs and lets us have Spring. I believe you will have more tomatoes this year than last. Remember that so much of last year.....the excessive rainfall, the continual cloudiness, the cooler-than-usual weather all combined to severely affect tomato production. Conditions like that are beyond our control AND exceptionally rare. This has GOT TO be a better year, right? By the way, my little container-grown Better Bush tomato has now formed a second tomato--it is just about the size of an English pea. I am so worried that a deer or possum will get my first green tomato that I carry this plant inside every single night. (It is a very pampered plant at this point. Today I picked up a lady bug and carried her over to the plant and sat her on a leaf, just so she could cruise around and hunt for any bugs that might be lurking.) I am SO looking forward to the first ripe tomato this year. No matter the size of the tomato, we always make BLT sandwiches out of the first ripe one. I am going to order the world's best bacon from the New Braunsfels Smokehouse just so we'll have it for the first BLT of 2008. (Most of the time we eat healthy and watch our fat intake and cholesterol, but BLT time is special and calls for a total disregard of the healthy eating rules!) Keep me posted on how planting goes. I hope to be out in the garden a lot the next few days if the weather cooperates. We are under all kinds of storm watches today, tonight and tomorrow, but so far everything is going either a couple of counties west of us OR a couple of counties east of us, and that's OK with me. Dawn

Hi Shannyn, Welcome to Oklahoma! Also, welcome to the Oklahoma Forum. I am going to guess that our weather and soil are going to make you feel like you've moved halfway across the world instead of halfway across the country. I believe you will love it here once you adjust to our very erratic weather and learn that staying indoors during the "hot part" of the July and August days makes summer almost bearable. During those months I try to finish my gardening tasks by 10 a.m. or at least no later than noon, and don't go back outside until 5 or 6 p.m. Working outside in the heat of the day with our heat and humidity can be dangerous, so pace yourself. VEGETABLES: I am going to assume you're talking about heirloom vegetables. (If you're talking about heirloom flowers, we can go back and talk about them later in the thread.) COOL-SEASON VS. WARM-SEASON: Many newcomers to Oklahoma think that we have one long growing season here because we are frost-free from roughly April through November in much of the state, and even from March-December in the southern part of the state in a very warm year. However, we have very distinct mini-seasons within that long frost-free period in which different crops must be planted so they can grow at the right times. COOL-SEASON CROPS: Beginning as early as January in far southern OK where I live, you can put onions (short-day, intermediate-day or day-neutral types, but not long-day types like they grow up north) in the ground, although most people in the rest of the state will plant them in February. Potatoes go in next, either in Feb.-Mar. and most other cool-season crops can be planted in Feb.-Mar., including peas, broccoli, cauliflower, beets, carrots, cabbage, lettuce, kale, swiss chard, spinach and other greens, etc. Brussels Sprouts do better as a fall crop because it gets too hot too early here for them to form many sprouts before the heat ruins their flavor and makes them too bitter to eat. Most of these crops will be "finished" sometime in June, or even in May in far southern OK. The nice thing about Oklahoma is that you can plant a second round of cool-season crops in late summer for harvest in autumn. WARM-SEASON CROPS: Most warm-season crops can go into the ground in mid- to late-March in southern Oklahoma, and in April in the rest of the state. I'll link the OSU vegetable planting guide below for you and think that, since you are in Moore, you generally could plant right in the mid-point of the range of dates they show. You also can grow some true heat-lovers here that might not have done well for you in NY if you tried to grow them there. These include melons of all types, sweet potatoes, southern peas (crowder peas, cream peas, black-eyed peas, etc.), and sweet potatoes. They all go in later than most other warm-season crops because they like really warm soil. HEIRLOOM VARIETIES: Many heirloom varieties do well here. I'll try to list a few or, if I've found all the heirlooms do equally well, I'll say that. ASPARAGUS: Most people here grow the newer all-male types due to their higher productivity so I won't even try to list any heirloom varieties. However, I've never seen a variety of asparagus, new or old, that doesn't produce well here if properly maintained. BEANS: All pole and bush types do well here except for the runner beans and some of the half-runners, and their problem is that they don't produce well in our heat. I especially like the following (but like I said previously, all but the runners do well here): McCaslan, Lazy Housewife, Black Valentine, Cherokee Trail of Tears, Tendergreen Improved, Jacob's Cattle, Kentucky Wonder, Rattlesnake, Henderson Bush Lima and Christmas Lima. BEETS: They all seem to do well here although slow to germinate in cold soil. BROCCOLI: I grow the heirloom sprouting types in the fall (any and all do equally well) but grow hybrids with short days-to-maturity in the spring because that's the only way to get a harvest. From a March planting, you can harvest in May thru early June and then the heat both causes the plants to flower and ruins the flavor. A couple of quick-maturing varieties we grow in spring include Premium Crop, Packman and Small Miracle. Waltham and the sprouting types can be grown in the fall. BRUSSELS SPROUTS: In the fall, you can get a good harvest from Falstaff or Jade Cross if planted in mid-July through mid-August for a harvest from mid-October through November. CABBAGE: Any type I've tried does well here as a spring-planted crop harvested in early summer or a mid- to late-summer planting harvested in late fall. CARROTS: Any and all do well here and I like growing a rainbow of carrots in different colors. If you have heavy clay soil you'll have to stick with some of the shorter ones like Little Fingers, Parmex and Thumbelina. CAULIFLOWER: Any cauliflower I've planted has grown just fine in spring, including Early Snowball and the colored ones like Graffiti, Cheddar and Green Harmoney. CELERY: Very, very iffy here but can be grown with great attention to planting times and creating the perfect microlimate for it. CHARD: All varieties grow well here including Fordhook, Five-Color Silverbeet and Rhubarb Chard, and the newer hybrids like Neon Lights and Bright Lights. The chards produe all summer long and look striking in the garden. You do have to keep them picking while the leaves are fairly small in the hottest part of the summer or the leaves get too tough. CORN: I grow mostly sweet corns, and our all-time favorite is Country Gentleman (shoepeg) although we also grow and like Golden Bantam and Texas Honey June (seed for it is available from Southern Exposure Seed Exchange). I grow hybrids as well, and am especially partial to Serendipity. We also have grown and liked Silver Queen and Merit for many years. CUCUMBERS: If there is a cuke that won't grow and produce here, I haven't found it. I like Chicago Pickling, but also grow some of the bush-type picklers like Spacemaster and Picklebush so I can cram more plants into the ground. Lemon Cucumber is an heirloom that thrives in the heat, but be sure you harvest it while it is smaller and no darker than lemon yellow. EGGPLANT: They all do well here but often have issues with flea beetles if planted too early. If you wait until May to plant them, the flea beetles usually aren't much of an issue by then (at least here in southern OK). I think the smaller ones in the fascinating range of whites, lavenders, etc. taste better than the older, larger dark purple ones Pingtung Long Ichiban Rosa Biana GREENS: Collard greens, spinach, mustard greens, turnip greens, etc. all do well as cool-season crops but finish up pretty early here.....by the end of May or earliest June in southern OK. LETTUCE: Any and all do well here and are surprisingly disease-free. However, they are strictly cool-season crops and cannot take our June, July and August heat here in southern OK. Folks in central and northern OK may be able to keep them going into June in a good rainfall year. When you see a variety described as "heat-tolerant" or "produces all summer" or whatever, just remember that although that statement might apply in cooler parts of the country, it doesn't apply here. Lettuce just melts away in our heat. Black-seeded Simpson and Bloomsdale Longstanding are more heat-tolerant than most. MELONS: Most of them do well here although some do better than others. Some of the heirlooms we like are listed below and the list includes true cantaloupes, muskmelons, crenshaw and casaba types, etc. Pike Collective Farm Woman Noir des Carmes Rocky Fore Old-Time Tennessee Ha'Ogen Cochiti Pueblo Schoon's Hard Shell Hollybrook Luscious Piel de Sapo (aka Frogskin Melon) Crane Eden's Gem Early Frame Prescott Prescott Fond Blanc Orange-fleshed Honeydew Christmas Canary Petit Gris de Rennes OKRA: They all grow well here. We like Hill Country Red, Clemson Spineless, and Cowhorn. ONIONS: Any short-day, intermediate day and day-neutral types will grow here. George grows Yellow of Parma. I grow modern-day onions, not hybrids, and get great harvests from Texas Supersweet (aka Texas 1015Y), Candy, Contessa, Super Star, Yellow Granex, Southern Red Belle, etc. A lot of us are trying Red Candy Apple this year, and it is a red version of the very popular sweet onion Candy. In the south, the sweet onions grow better than the hotter long-storage onions which tend to be long-day types that don't bulb up here. PEAS: I can't say much about green peas because I don't grow them here in extreme southcentral OK since we get too hot too early here for them. Mulberryknob (Dorothy) can tell you about peas and so can some of our gardeners from northeastern OK. PEPPERS: I've never met a pepper, heirloom or hybrid, that isn't happy here in our heat. Be careful not to plant them too soon or they'll sulk and be unproductive all year. I plant them 2 or 3 weeks after my last spring tomatoes go in because they need warmer soil. Other than avoiding early planting, any hot or sweet pepper you want to grow will do just fine here RADISHES: All do well here as early cool-season crops. SOUTHERN PEAS: Pennyrile Red Ripper Pinkeye Purple Hull Cream Mississippi Zipper SUMMER SQUASH: Any and all do well here, including Yellow Straightneck, Yellow Crookneck and all the patty pan types. In the zucchini world, we are partial to Costata Romanesco and Cocozelle. In our heat, they get really big really fast, so harvest every day or two before they turn into huge monsters. WINTER SQUASH/PUMPKINS: We have an extensive thread on these that has been around a couple of months now so I won't repeat what is in it. Squash vine borers and disease are hard on certain types and not quite as hard on others. The most disease-resistant one I grow is the heirloom Seminole pumpkin and the best-tasting one for pies is Winter Luxury Pie. If you can't find the old thread via a search of the back pages of this forum, let me know and I'll try to find it. TOMATOES: I hardly know where to start. Many of the ones you are used to growing will not set many if any fruit here. Brandywine is a good example. Excellent flavor, as I am sure you know, but you're lucky to get 6 fruit from a plant in our heat. There are a few of the large-fruited heirlooms that produce well and I'll include them on the lists. Oxheart types do not produce many, if any, fruit in our heat and are a huge disappointment here. CHERRY, GRAPE, CURRANT AND PEAR TYPES: Pretty much all of these grow well here, so you can let your taste buds be your guide. I grow tons of these and dehydrate thousands of the tiny fruit to eat all winter long. Here's a list of some of the ones (both hybrid and heirloom) we like: Black Cherry SunGold SunSugar Lime Green Salad Dr. Carolyn Riesentraube Grape Coyote Tess's Land Race Currant Red Currant Fargo Golden Gem Snow White Super Snow White Orange Santa Ildi Galina's Cuban Yellow grape Yellow Currant Rosalita Red Pear Yellow Pear Sweet Chelsea Sweet Million Isis Candy Bi-Color Cherry PASTE TYPES: Opalka Polish Linguisa Martino's Roma Amish Paste San Marzano Redorta Grandma Mary's Paste Jersey Devil Viva Italia SLICERS: EARLY: Sophie's Choice Glacier Bush Early Girl New Big Dwarf Better Bush Mountain Princess MAIN SEASON: True Black Brandywine Brandywine Sudduth's (better producer than all other BWs here except TBB) Black Krim Ananas Noir Cherokee Purple, Green or Chocolate Indian Stripe Black From Tula Carbon Black Pear Black Plum Chocolate Stripes Paul Robeson Better Boy VFN Druzba Nepal Mule Team Jet Star VF Box Car Willie Aunt Ginny's Purple Aunt Gertie's Gold Dr. Wyche's Yellow (an Oklahoma heirloom from the Hugo area) Dixie Golden Giant Janue Flammee' Persimmon Russian Persimmon Azoychka Livingston's Golden Queen Livingston's Gold Ball Lemon Boy Jubilee (aka Golden Jubilee) Zogola Tangerine Porter Porter Improved (aka Porter's Pride) Black Prince Aunt Ruby's German Green Green Giant German Johnson German Giant German Queen Tennessee Britches Valena Pink Big Rainbow Radiator Charlie's Mortgage Lifter Estler's Mortgage Lifter Stump of the World Goliath Momotaro Earl's Faux Pruden's Purple Marianna's Peace Rutgers Sioux Super Sioux Eva Purple Ball Homestead 24 Caspian Pink Coustralee Livingtons's Paragon Livingston's Favorite Livingston's Magnus Livingston's Perfection Liningston's Main Crop Pink Tiffen Mennonite Tappy's Heritage Ramapo Moreton Supersonic Primetime Brandy Boy LONG-KEEPING VARIETIES: Burpee's Red October Burpee's Longkeeper Yellow Out, Red In Old-fashioned Garden Peach Winterkeeper Green Thumb TURNIPS: All do fine here and we like Purple Top White Globe. WATERMELONS: All do fine here as long as they are in full sun and well-drained soil and get lots of moisture. Our all-time favorite is Blacktail Mountain and we grow other smaller ones including Yellow Doll, Bush Sugar Baby, Sugar Baby and Jurasik. Others that have done well (but take up lots of space) include Ali Baba, Moon and Stars, Chriss Cross, Rattlesnake, Crimson Sweet, and many others. FOR FALL TOMATOES: I usally plant a lot of the Livingston varieties and some of the longkeepers plus whatever looked good enough in July that it was allowed to go on into fall. One key to remember is that our summer heat shuts down tomato pollination/fertilization very early so you have to plant your tomato plants as early as you dare and be prepared to cover them up on an occasional "late" cold night. By about the third or fourth week of June most years, the temperatures are high enough that most of the larger tomatoes (not including the small cherry, currant, grape, pear and plum shaped ones) won't set new fruit until the temps drop again, so early planting pays off and late planting means not many tomatoes will be harvested until fall. Some crops you grew in NY cannot handle the heat and do not do well here in general, although some people have managed to create just the right microclimate for them. (That is rare, though.) Rhubarb and raspberries are incredibly hard to grow here as they do not like our heat. Apples and pears can be iffy as the apples often fall victim to cedar-apple rust and they both tend to get fireblight about the time they start bearing crops. Stone fruits like peaches, pears, plums, apricots and almonds grow pretty well here but bloom too early some years and lose the crop to a late frost. Many heirlooms do well here, but it takes trial-and-error to discover which ones can handle the heat. I have found, though, that almost all of them produce pretty well if planted at the appropriate time. Many of them have adequate disease resistance too. I know you'll have many questions as you adapt to our climate and soil. Don't worry. We're right here to help you adjust. Dawn

Melissa, You're welcome. Here's the list of vegetable varieties suitable for growing in containers. This is not an all-inclusive list but it does give you several options for each type of vegetable on the list. With certain vegetables, like bush beans, for example, literally any variety available can be grown in containers. With tomatoes, literally any variety can be grown in containers, although the larger the mature size of the plant, the larger the container it will need. This year, I had several varieties of tomatoes, including Chocolate Stripes, Momotaro, Tropic and Red Defender reach 7' in height in molasses feed tub containers, which probably hold about 20 gallons of soil. Many other tomato plants, including Scarlet Red, Glacier, Sophie's Choice, New Big Dwarf and Red Defender reached about 3 to 4' or so in 7-gallon containers. Still others, including Ildi, Sioux, San Marzano Redorta, and Yellow Ball reached a height of 5' or taller in kitty litter buckets that hold about 5 gallons of soil. All of the container-grown plants produced heavily all season long. So, matching your plants' ultimate size to a container of the right size pays off. If I know where the seeds are usually offered online, I mention the company. However, some companies haven't updated their websites for 2010 so I can't say that they'll have the seed for 2010, just that they usually have it. Dawn Here's the abbreviations for the sources: BCHS = Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds www.rareseeds.com BURP = Burpee Seeds www.burpeeseeds.com CG = The Cook's Garden www.cooksgarden.com CON = Containerseeds.com (I only listed broccoli for this company but it probably has many of the varieties on this list) JSCH = John Scheepers Kitchen Garden Seeds www.kitchengardenseeds.com NIC = Nichols Garden Nursery www.nicholsgardennursery.com PARK = Park Seed www.parkseed.com PINE = Pinetree Seeds www.superseeds.com VS = Victory Seeds www.Victoryseeds.com SSE = Seed Savers Exchange www.seedsavers.org SESE = Southern Exposure Seed Exchange www.southernexposure.com TGSC = Tomato Growers Supply Company www.tomatogrowers.com TT = Totally Tomatoes www.totallytomatoes.com BEANS: Roma II (BCHS, VS, BUR) Contender (BCHS, VS, BUR) Top Crop (VS) Gina (romano type) (NIC) Provider (PINE, SESE, SSE, BUR) Tendergreen (PINE, SSE) Bush Blue Lake (BCHS, BUR, PINE, SESE) Sequioia Purple Roma (BUR) Royalty Purple Pod (BCHS, NIC, PINE, SSE, SESE) Golden Wax Improved (VS) BEANS, LIMA Thorogreen (NIC) Henderson Bush (BCHS, PINE, SESE) Bush Jackson Wonder (BCHS, SESE) Fordhook 242 (SESE) BEETS Red Ace (PINE) Golden Globe (BUR, SSE) Cylindra (BCHS, BUR, NIC, PINE, SSE) Ruby Queen (PINE, VS) Burpee's Red Ball (BUR) Bull's Blood (highly ornamental foliage) (BUR) BROCCOLI Early Dividend (Territorial Seed used to carry it but I haven't bought it in several years so don't know if they still do.) Small Miracle (PARK, CON) Packman (NIC) CABBAGE Gonzales Mini-Cabbage (PINE) Red Acre (SESE, VS) Golden Acre (VS) Savoy Express (JSCH) Primero Red (JSCH) Caraflex (JSCH) CARROTS Adelaide Baby (JSCH) Short 'N Sweet (BUR) Thumbelina (BUR) Little Finger (PINE, VS) Minicor (JSCH, NIC) Mokum (PINE) Parisian/Tonda di Parigi (PINE) Red-Cored Chantenay (BUR, VS) Improved Nantes (VS) Scarlet Nantes (VS) Parmex (JSCH, CG) CAULIFLOWER: Early Snowball (SESE) Igloo (PINE) CHARD: any---they all get about the same size CORN (SWEET): Early Sunglow (BUR, NIC) Blue Jade (dwarf) (SSE) Quickie (PINE) Golden Bantam (BUR, SESE) CUCUMBER: Salad Bush (NIC, PINE, TT, BUR) Spacemaster (PINE, BUR, SESE) Bush Champion (BUR) Fanfare (TT) Picklebush (BUR) Bush Crop (PINE, VS) Homemade Pickles (PINE, VS, TT) Muncher (PINE) Bush Pickle (TT) Ellen's Family White (pickling) (SESE) Arkansas Little Leaf H-19 (pickling) (SESE) EGGPLANT: Bambino (BUR, CG) Fairy Tale (BUR, NIC)) Long Purple (BUR) Slim Jim (PINE) Raveena (PINE) White Fingers (PINE) Applegreen (BCHS, SESE, SSE) Casper (SSE) Diamond (SSE) Neon (CG) LETTUCE: any, but here's some of the more compact ones Tom Thumb (heads get tennis-ball sized) (NIC, SESE, VS) Little Gem (VS) Tennis Ball (SESE) This variety was grown by Thomas Jefferson at Monticello Bronze Mignonette (VS) Buttercrunch (SESE) MELONS: These would need large containers--nothing smaller than the size of a half-whiskey barrel or child's wading pool. Old stock tanks are great for growing melons too. Minnesota Midget (BCHS, SSE) Green Machine (BCHS) Sleeping Beauty (BCHS) OKRA: Little Lucy (NIC, PARK) Baby Bubba (BUR) Pitre's Short Bush Red Cowhorn 3' tall (BCHS) Vidrine's Midget Cowhorn Okra (BCHS) Choppee (SESE) Dwarf Green Long Pod (VS) ONION: any short-day or intermediate types or any bunching types PEAS: Little Marvel (SESE) Sugar Bon (BUR) Snowbird Snow Pea (BUR) Knight (PINE) Lincoln (aka Homestead) DeGrace Snow Pod (BCHS) Oregon Sugar Pod II Snow Pea (BCHS) Wando (BUR, SESE, VS) Laxton's Progress No. 9 (VS) Sugar Ann (SESE, VS) Dwarf Gray Sugar (BUR, SESE, VS) Tom Thumb (SESE) Oregon Trail (NIC) Sugar Spring (NIC) PEPPERS: almost any pepper can be grown in containers, but these few listed here are especially compact Hot: Biker Billy Jalapeno (BUR) Pizza (NIC, TT) Super Chile (TT) TAM Jalapeno #1 (TT) Thai Demon Red (NIC) Medium: Tangerine Dream (BUR) Blushing Beauty (TT) Redskin Red Bell (TT) Mini Belle Mix (TT) Mini Bell Choc (TT) Mini Bell Yellow (TT) POTATOES any fingerling type like Russian Banana, Austrian Crescent, etc. Red Pontiac or Red Norland any other potato can be grown in very large containers PUMPKINS Cheyenne Bush (SSE) Orange Smoothie (semi-determinate) (BUR, PINE) Jack-B-Little (trellised) (BCHS, NIC, PINE) Wee-B-Little (trellised) (NIC, PINE) RADISHES: any type excet the very large winter radishes or the very long Daikon types Cherry Belle (PINE, NIC, SESE, VS) French Breakfast/Early French Breakfast (BCHS, NIC, PINE, VS) Easter Egg II Blend (TT) White Hailstone (BCHS, PINE, VS) Pink Beauty (BCHS, BUR) Purple Plum (BCHS, SSE, VS) Early Scarlet Globe (VS) SQUASH (Summer): Peter Pan Green Scallop (BUR) Sunburst Scallop (PINE) Saffron (PINE) Eight Ball (NIC, PINE) Greyzini (NIC) Ronde De Nice (PINE) Cocozelle (NIC, PINE) Early White Bush Scallop (VS) Yellow Bush Scallop (VS) Papaya Pear (NIC, PINE) SQUASH (Winter): Bon Bon (NIC) Butterbush (BUR) Autumn Glow Butternut (BUR) Bush Table Queen (BUR, SESE) Bush Buttercup (BCHS) Early Acorn (BUR) Cornell's Bush Delicata (NIC, PINE) Blue Baby Hubbard (BUR) TOMATOES: You can grow some ultra-small tomato plants in containers as small as 4" (Red Robin or Micro-Tom), in hanging baskets (Tumbler, Tumbling Tom, Florida Basket) and in larger 5 to 20-gallon containers, taking care to put Determinates in 5 to 10 gallon containers and Indeterminates in 7 to 20+ containers. Here's some varieties that do well in containers. Micro-Tom (TGSC) Florida Basket (TGSC) Elfin (TGSC) Small Fry (TGSC, TT) Tiny Tim (TT) Tumbler (TT, BUR) Tumbling Tom Red (PINE, TT, TGSC) Tumbling Tom Yellow (PINE, TT, TGSC) Balcony (CG) Red Robin (TT) Orange Pixie (NIC, TGSC) Canary Yellow (TGSC) Totem (TGSC) Patio VF (TT) Patio Princess (BUR) Window Box Roma (NIC, TGSC) Bush Early Girl (BUR, PIN, TGSC) Better Bush (PINE) Bush Big Boy (BUR) Bush Goliath (PINE, TT) Bush Beefsteak (TT, TGSC) Bushsteak (BUR) Martino's Roma (PINE, TT) Sweet Baby Girl (BUR, NIC, TGSC) Lime Green Salad (BCHS, TGSC, VS) New Big Dwarf (TGSC) Southern Night (a rare black determinate since most black tomatoes are indeterminate) (TGSC) Green Grape (TGSC, VS) Glacier (SESE, TT, TGSC) Husky Red (TT,TGSC) Husky Cherry Red (TT,TGSC) Mountain Princess (BCHS, SESE) Sophie's Choice (SESE) Green Zebra (NIC, VS) Black Sea Man (TT) WATERMELON: You should grow these in containers no smaller than 20 gallons, such as whiskey half-barrels, children's wading pools, trash cans or stock tanks. Melons (and pumpkins too, in fact) need a lot of water and have very vigorous root systems so the large containers are necessary in order for them to do well. Bush Sugar Baby (BUR) Sugar Baby (BUR) Blacktail Mountain (BCHS) Golden Midget (BGHS) Yellow Doll (NIC)