It can survive here, but unfortunately not without winter protection of some sort. I grew a 'golden showers' climber years ago. For winter I untied the canes from the trellis, dug a bit of a trench and buried them. Also, treat the centre of the rose like a hybrid tea, mounding peatmoss and/or soil and leaves over top to insulate for winter.

Or, they are only called a medium red, but you might try a William Baffin rose or a John Cabot rose. Both are hardy in zone 3 without winter protection. Some of the canes, however, might die back depending on the severity of winter, but it would quickly regrow in spring (once the rose is established, that is.)

How tall do you want the rose to climb and where?

Henry Kelsey is the tallest and redest climber in the Explorer series. Not crimson, but a true red all the same. It should reach 6-10 feet for you. The canes will dieback if exposed in a windy site, so you might want to take them off the trellis every fall.

John Cabot has fuller roses (more petals)than Henry Kelsey, but is less red, sometimes verges on red-pink to my mind. Again cane hardiness is a problem in an exposed windy spot. Mine is very exposed on the top of a northern slope and I have had alot of dieback.

William Baffin is massive (10 feet by 10 feet) pink not red to the average eye, and not easily trained. Most find it grows best as a huge bush rather than as a climber.

William Booth is a rambling type that can be used as a low climber, spread out on a wall or fence. Its canes reach 5-6 feet easily. The flowers are simple, but a good red and I like it quite alot. Mine grows on a north facing slope, untethered, and I have had little dieback. It is quite vigorous -lots and lots of canes.

Alexander Mackenzie has a purplish-pink-medium red rose. It grows about 6 feet. I am planning on putting in an obleliske for mine as I find its canes need support. I have had little cane die back. This is one of my favourites.

I don't have Quadra, but I understand it is a good climber and a good red.

As for my winter conditions, it gets quite cold here -30 to -40 for prolonged periods. I do find however that there are micro climates and that it is really important to note wind patterns, how the snow drifts in the winter, how it melts in the spring and whether things like a cedar hedge offers some protection.

My experience is also that you should expect the roses to take 3 years to reach their potential. I put cosmos in with them in the meantime.

Note my question about "Hope for Humanity" in this forum. It is deep, deep red and at seven feet right now. Might be an alternative to a climber. However, it is very narrow...two main stalks...straight upwards.

Roses are the strangest plants ever. I can train a carpet rose to be a climber,just never cut it down,let it climb on a trellis andit will be a climber,however I have no idea about the climate aspectof it all,guess you have to try different ideas,just trial and error.Good luck.

Quadra is very hardy and have a nice red tone ,love it

Here is a link that might be useful: {{!gwi}}

Thanks for all the useful info!

Ramblin' Red is reputedly very hardy, though I'm not sure about zone 3.
http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/rosesgal/msg1118454631220.html

Photos & comments on Quadra:
http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/rosesgal/msg1123512431128.html
http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/rosesgal/msg1108265227661.html

Some facts about climbing roses in northern climates.

Here is a link that might be useful: Climbing Roses in Cold Climates

I too have the Red Rambling Rose here in Edmonton. I planted it a few years back and it does wonderful in my cold zone. It has very pretty deep red roses and very easy to grow.. :)

I grown Red Ragosa Roses in zone 5 on the top of a mountain. The winters here can get pretty tough. I grow them to make rose hip tea. I use no winter protection. They are extremely hardy and disease resistant. You can train them to vine or trim them to shrub. I have some heirloom roses that have been passed down in my family for a couple hundred years that are far more delicate. I build a fortress for them with straw bales once the first snow flies and I leave it up until the sap starts to run in the spring. I just build a fort around them with straw bales and cover the top with landscaping fabric tucked into the straw bales. Then in the spring I use the straw bales in the compost pile.