I am about an hour west of Tom VA, and the blight hit me to. Yes, it is everywhere! :( I have been studying a bit of chemical free gardening, and I have noticed that I have done a few things correctly and a few things incorrectly this year to protect my plants from the blight. Correctly in that, when I water my tomatoes, I only spray the water hose toward the roots, not the whole plant. I was incorrect in that I like to water in the evening so the water has more time to soak in, when I should have been watering in the morning to help them stay dry. etc. etc. Being a small gardener, next year I am going to separate my plants all around my back yard. I do not remember the article or have the link now, but I did save an excerpt from an article that I would like to share... Good luck to everyone next year. ps. I have never raised Ferline and Legend tomatoes, so can not comment on their reputation as mentioned below. How to prevent tomato blight This fungal infection is caused by wet or damp conditions and effects the leaves first. If growing outside provide some kind of shelter for your plants if possible. Wet leaves are ok for a few hours, but over-night in cold conditions followed by another wet day will lower the plants defenses. Ferline and Legend are supposed to be blight tolerant - that is they have a greater defense against blight than other varieties. Suggestions to follow: * Keep tomato leaves dry - provide some shelter from the rain if possible. * Water in the morning to that plants are not stood in excess water overnight. * Remove some of the lower leaves (by pulling off - not cutting) if they show signs of infection. * DonÂt touch leaves of plants and spread the disease on fingers.

I have used it for 3 years now with no problems. I have never experienced any leaf burn or brown tips with it and neither have any of the regular users here - at least none reported when used per label directions. And last year during the LB epidemic it was used extensively by many here and more frequently than recommended by the label. As I mentioned you'll find many discussions here about it. Exceptionally effective IME, the most highly rated one for late blight prevention and control. I can't say how it might react to the Florida heat and humidity but it certainly copes well with mine and works well in my garden. Dave

Hi John, Not sure if you remember me, we spoke about beans some time ago. Anyway, Late Blight has been around, but most summers here in much of the US are relatively warm or hot so you often don't see widespread disease. Last year, most of the northeast was cool and damp for most of the summer so Late Blight was running rampant. It spread all over the place. Normally many people have problems with Early Blight because of the warm humid weather that it likes. I think your friend in Switzerland has just been lucky. : ) A clear awning though might be a good idea to stop the excess rain. Remy

Agree with Jeanne for it doesn't sound like Late Blight ( P infestans) to me either, which is not the same as Early Blight ( A. solani). The earliest symptoms of Late Blight are the bending down of the petioles and the appearance of the specific lesions on the leaves. And lesions on fruit would be pretty much the last of any symptoms you see. You might want to Google Late Blight or even do a search here at GW to get some more information and of course, I also agree that if possible some pictures might help. Carolyn The