Just a slightly different take on this. Bagged manure available around here from the box stores has a VERY low content of actual manure -- in most cases only about 10%. Yes it can provide some tilth to the soil but very little in terms of fertility, and in my experience does not really add much to the soil. Mushroom compost, on the other hand, is made up virtually completely of composted manures and has a much higher organic/manure content than the bagged manures available here. Unfortunately, where I live mushroom compost is virtually impossible to find, none of the stores sell it and it is no longer available in bulk any where in SE Michigan that I know of. I did manage to get one load of mushroom compost about 5 years ago and used it as a soil amendment in areas where lime loving plants grow, like hellebores and clematis. Those plants grew like crazy! I know it is somewhat basic but that can be corrected depending on what you are growing and your natural soil pH. I know at Ashwood nursery in England, probably the premier hellebore nursery in the world, they made beds largely of mushroom compost, and their hellebores in the garden were to die for. So....take from that what you want, but wish I could get some more mushroom compost. Having said all that, if you have made beds the way you describe and are adding that much organic matter every year, your soil is probably in great condition and you probably only need to amend or fertilize around hungry plants (clematis, roses, hellebores....) BTW, dehydrated manures are sometimes available bagged, and while much more expensive than the box-store bagged "manures", add much more fertility and tilth to the soil IMO.

There is a local dairy farm about 20 miles away that has always had a nice pile of aged cow manure. I built many a bed with that stuff. But last year they wouldn't sell any. I'm afraid it's become too much of a commodity. I will call them again next spring. I compost all veg. and fruit scraps, plus coffee grounds and eggshells. My neighbor contributes their food scraps as well to my pile. But I never have enough homedmade compost. When I first started gardening here I tried to get as many compost piles going as I could and turned them often. Then I found I was spending too much time in the garden and didn't have time to "maintain" so many piles. We don't have "mushroom compost" around here, but we do have "seafood compost". There are a few facilities that take the waste from the lobster and fishing industry and compost it. Very good stuff, you can see tiny bits of shells in it. I had 12 yards delivered last year when I was building the rose garden. One fall I went to one of the coves where seaweed collects. I hauled as much as I could in trash bags in my trunk. Not a good idea as the bags leaked. I have to know when to draw the line for my garden. Standing on slippery rocks in waist-high water pulling up slimy seaweed, then having a car that smelled like the marsh on a hot day was above and beyond the call of duty. If I don't have a finished pile of compost or manure to dig from, I will buy those bags (20 lbs?) of "composted cow manure" from Walmart or Home Depot. 1/2 to 1 bag worked in to each rose hole. Probably the best thing I do is mulch with finely shredded leaves. You can scrape back the mulch and uncover dozens of worms per sq. ft. everywhere in my garden. It is a lot of work each fall, as we have to collect at least 100 bags of leaves and shred them with the riding mower, then rake them up again and haul them throughout the garden. It takes a good 2 weekends.

Horse manure tends to be weedy just by definition :-) Horses consume a lot of weedy plants and their digestive system doesn't process them as thoroughly as say cows with their multiple stomachs do. Hence, horse poop tends to generate a lot of weeds. About the only way to control them is to get the pile to heat up to seed killing temperatures. Very likely you will need to add other organic matter to make this happen. Horse manure often contains a lot of bedding and this slows the process and limits the heat the manure should generate, Adding some "greens" - nitrogen sources like grass clippings, plant trimmings or chicken manure, blood meal or alfalfa meal will help. And aerate the pile by turning periodically if you can......your tractor should be helpful for this :-) If you can raise the temperature of your pile up to at least 140F (160F is even better) and hold it there for 3-4 days, the bulk of the weed seeds should be killed off.

Organic Weed Control Methods ~ Mulching What is Mulch?" Mulch is a protective covering (such as of bark chips, compost, or grass clippings) overlaid on the ground. Mulch reduces the moisture loss from the soil by preventing evaporation from sunshine and desiccating winds. Mulch prevents erosion by eliminating or reducing the "splash-away" effect of torrential downpours. Mulch helps regulate soil temperature by shading it in the summer thus keeping it cooler and helps insulate it in the winter from chilling winds. This temperature regulating effect helps encourage the root growth of plants. Mulch helps to keep fruit clean (such as strawberries and tomatoes) by reducing muddy splash-ups during rainstorms. Mulch controls weed growth by smothering seedlings, prevents daylight which helps foster germination from reaching weed seeds, and prevents air-borne seeds from taking hold in the soil surface. Mulch helps prevent damage to trees and bushes by protecting their stems and surface roots from damage by mechanical garden tools such as weed whackers, edgers, and lawn mowers. Mulch helps prevent soil compaction by providing a cushion to walk upon. Walking on bare soil will compact it reducing its aeration and ability to drain. Mulch provides a more unified and tidy appearance to flower beds and borders. Mulch helps reduce yardwaste disposal and cash outlay. If you utilize your own yard wastes by chipping pruned branches and limbs, make your own compost, or use grass clippings and raked fallen leaves for mulch you won't have to bag and haul them to the curb for collection or pay for their disposal, you won't utilize land-fill space, and you'll keep your wallet in your pocket because the mulch you create is free. Mulch enriches the soil as it breaks down and releases nutrients back into the ground. Mulch, if not already decomposed, will encourage microbial organisms which are beneficial to healthy plants. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ "What are some common mulches?" Chipped hardwood bark mulch: Is readily available for home-owners from township landfills. It is made from ground and/or chipped trees. It is often free or available at a low cost. The downside of chipped bark mulch from municipalities is that it may contain bark from diseased trees. Compost it for a year before using it in your garden. Before you apply the aged bark mulch topdress your garden soil with fertilizers high in nitrogen such as blood-meal, cottonseed-meal, manure, or guano. Softwood bark mulch: Made from pine, fir, or redwood, is available in many different sizes. It is long lasting and excellent for use in foundation plantings. Compost: Is an excellent mulch that you can make at home by composting various yardwastes such as leaves, grass clippings, plants and soft-wood bush prunings, coffee grounds, and non-animal kitchen wastes. Partially decomposed composted material is one of the most nutrient rich mulches you can use. As it breaks down it releases nutrients into the soil. Crushed Corncobs: Regionally available inexpensive mulch. It is generally available as a dyed or natural product. Corncob mulch is a cushioning mulch and is often used in playgrounds. Hay: Often used in rural and farm gardens because it is more likely to be available at the least expensive cost. The use of aged bales may reduce the weed content. Apply hay mulch after the ground has warmed to discourage mice and voles from tunneling under it. Spent Hops: Available from breweries. Can be a bit "whiffy" after application but the scent will dissipate after a few weeks. Buckwheat Hulls: Buckwheat hull mulch is fluffy and is excellent for use around perennials and annuals. Cocoa-bean Hulls: Cocoa-bean hull mulch is a rich brown color and smells like chocolate-heaven (yumyum!). Apply it in a thin layer as it can otherwise become slimy or moldy. If applied at greater than a three inch depth you may wish to occasionally rake it to stir the hulls about, thus reducing the dampness which fosters the mold. Peanut Hulls: Peanut hull mulch is available from garden centers near peanut growers and processors. As it breaks down it provides some nitrogen to the soil. Lawn Clippings: Grass clippings are best used after they've been allowed to dry. If applied while they're fresh they can compact and generate heat while decomposing. They can produce strong odors the first week or two of decomposition but the scent will subside after that. It is not recommended to use grass clippings from lawns that have been treated with pesticides, fungicides, or herbicides. Leafmold: This mulch is available from most municipal composting facilities or you can make your own. Autumn gathered leaves left to decompose over winter will provide you with leafmold ready for use the following spring. Fallen Leaves: The least expensive form of mulch available. It is readily available in Autumn near woody areas. Fallen leaves may be used as is, chopped with the lawn mower to reduce their size, or compost them during winter and use them as leafmold the following spring. Manure: Available as a bagged commercially composted product at garden centers, or available fresh from stables and farms. Fresh manure should be composted for at least six months to reduce nitrogen burn when applied around plants and to reduce the viability of weed seeds in the manure itself. Mushroom soil/compost: Is available at garden centers or sources near commercial mushroom growers. It is generally inexpensive. Peat Moss: A commonly used mulch, it is attractive when applied thickly. Look for course-grade peat moss when using it for a mulch. It can be cost prohibitive when used for mulching large areas. Peat moss will shed water when it's dry rather than absorbing it. You can help maintain it's moisture by watering this mulch regularly when you also water your lawn. Pine Needles: Are a light colored, fluffy, and pretty mulch. Leave them in place under pine trees rather than removing them. Rake them from your lawn grass and use them to mulch around acid-loving plants such as azaleas, blueberries, and rhododendrons. They are also excellent to use as a cushioning mulch for garden paths and will release their pine scent when walked upon. Sawdust: Available from timber mills or other wood processing businesses. As it decomposes it can cause nitrogen loss from the the soil so if used in garden beds apply nitrogen rich fertilizers regularly. Sawdust is an excellent mulch for garden paths. It is not recommended to use sawdust from chemically treated or painted wood. Straw: Can be used for winter protection as an overlay in muddy areas and will provide some traction on icy paths. It is also frequently used as a mulch in veggie gardens. Do not use straw mulch in frequently used areas as it is highly inflammable. Do not use it to mulch walkways as it can be easily ignited by a carelessly tossed smoldering cigarette butt. Wood Chips: Can be obtained from arborists, utility companies, municipal yard waste facilites, and garden centers. They are very long lasting and make a good overlayment for paths and walkways. To learn more about mulch and the wonderful effect of compost and micro-organisms in the soil please visit the "Soil, Compost, and Mulch Forum" and do read their fabulous FAQs. Taking care of your soil is vital to having a garden of healthy and vigorous plants.