What is Red and Shiny and in my soil?
Poochella
18 years ago
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Poochella
18 years agoRelated Discussions
My experiment with red worms & potting soil
Comments (3)What is the soil you used for your plants. I think valerie is correct they need food to live. I an trying this on a small scale with UCG for food and nitrogen fertilizer. This is not for long term planting but for trying to extend, or for partial reuse of the potting mix. I am growing leaf vegetables as cut and come again salad greens. I would expect the breakdown of the soil into fines to effect the pwt for long time use.Thanks Curt~...See MoreContainer Planting - Dogwood & Red Bud - What soil should I use?
Comments (12)you dont use soil.. mother earth ... in pots .... too hard to control .... peat based potting media is usually high in peat .. which holds too much water for trees ... so a lot of tree peeps cut it half and half with mini chunks .... little bark pieces the size of your thumbnail ... that way.. when you water the top .... it seems like it all runs out the bottom.. but the peat catches just enough water ... for a tree ... and you tend to let the pots NEARLY dry in between watering .. that is a VERY superficial explanation ... but you start with pot size.. and you are probably going to need at least a 10 to 20 gallon pot ... smaller might work.. but it might not hold up the tree in wind .... i actually had a 6 ft tri color in a half barrel ... to give you some perspective .... and the movers agreed to move it ... i did exactly what you are talking about .... my native soil was nice sandy peat [old house] .... and i just put the potted trees .. pot and all .... into the ground.. since mother earth had high drainage ... and i was not worried about standing water down in the pot ... all that said .... if you do everything perfect.. the trees will overcome the potting in about 2 years.. then you will move them.. and then.. set them back with a new transplant... not to mention figuring out how to move the giant pots and trees ... its totally up to you.. but you might be better off.. just waiting ... for your future forest also.. make sure black pots are NEVER in the sun.. you can cook the roots ... both trees ought to do good in bright shade .... this is another reason i buried the pots ... trees like cool roots .... and rather dry soil .... damp.. but not sodden is what i mean ... they are not like annuals and perennials that like a lot of water good luck ken...See MoreWhat is happening to my VFT soil?
Comments (3)Sorry about that, hopefully these will work: Thanks for the replies - I just checked the website and the soil is the 50/50 mix. There has always been some on the surface, it is just starting to get rust-colored bumps on it (which hopefully will show up in the picture now). I just wanted to make sure whatever was causing that wasn't going to harm my plants. Until August when I moved the plants outside, I have kept the green plant inside since I got it a year ago, due to not having a place to put it outside, and it has done fine. I thought maybe they would get more light from a lamp being on them than they are in their current spot outside....See MoreLogan Lab Soil Test Results // Ref. "Could Red Fescue be my Problem?"
Comments (25)@becky: Good point! I should just boilerplate a disclaimer up top. In some cases, I'm slamming the grass with N. In others, nothing... >>Because the soil was so hard; I thought it may be a heavy clay based soil. So I had the irrigation system programmed to water the lawn every third day applying a half inch of water at a time to eliminate run-off. (So much for what I know!! ) Is the half inch at a time schedule okay? Or do you think the lawn may require more than 1" of water per week? If so; what would you suggest as a watering schedule? I folded all this together. :-) Observation will show you what's required; during cooler weather, like spring and fall, very little watering may be required, or even none at all. I haven't used the sprinklers since September even though rainfall's been a bit low. Half an inch on very sandy soil is generally a good place to start, and figure you may need it twice a week in hot weather. Weekly in pleasant summer weather. I always play it by ear and water when my grass starts to wilt--which also sends the signal to the grass that more root mass might be a good idea. >>Based on the soil test results do you think my soil problem can be corrected On a scale of 1 to 10 with 1 being very bad, and 10 be very good. Where on the scale would you put my soil? All soils can be corrected and yours is certainly no exception to that. Mine started out more than ten times as acidic, with essentially no calcium, modest magnesium, and very low potassium. Not to mention a nearly complete lack of every other resource. These days, it can grow anything I throw into the soil (as long as the plant is compatible with my climate and the sunlight it gets, of course). The problem isn't getting plants to grow, it's getting them to stop taking over! There was a visible battle front between the ageratum and zinnia this year. Overall, I'd give your soil about a 5 at the present instant...it's almost exactly what I'd expect for your locale, without modifications. That can easily be turned up to the 7 to 9 range. 10 is possible but would take years of work....See MoreChefLisbeth
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