Best potted strategy for zone 5 ?
leafwatcher
12 years ago
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Eleanor B
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agoaka_margo
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
Al's Gritty 5.1.1 or 1.1.1. Which is best for 10b zone
Comments (52)Anurag - the thread about container soils and water retention was written with the hope that those reading it would come away with an understanding of how water behaves in soils, & particularly how particle size and other physical characteristics impact perched water retention and o/a water retention. It's up to the grower to decide what he/she wants to do - how diligently they want to work at reducing the amount of excess water their soils hold. 1:1:1, screened bark:screened Turface:grit is the most productive soil I've used, but I don't use it for everything. Veggies & plants I know are only going to live a year of go 1 year between repots, usually go in the 5:1:1 mix. All of my woody plants, housep0lants including succulents, and other plants I know will be in the same soil for 2 growth cycles or longer, go in the gritty 1:1:1 mix. The 1:1:1 and 5:1:1 ratios are guidelines, but they're good ones. They minimize the amount of perched water a soil holds, and the gritty mix makes a good run at maximizing the volume of water held inside soil particles while still offering additional adjustability. If you live in a rainy climate and you're using the gritty mix, you might want to increase the amount of grit and decrease the amount of Turface commensurately. If it's dry where you live, increase the Turface and decrease the grit - but make sure that the soil holds enough water to carry you through the dry days, but not so much your plant suffers during periods of prolonged rain. Shading the pots when it's hot is very helpful. High soil/root temps is one of the primary limiting factors for container growers. I like soluble synthetic fertilizers. There is no more efficient way to ensure your plants get what they need, when they need it, at the right ratio, and in a favorable o/a concentration. How you fertilize is up to you, but soluble synthetics make fertilizing almost foolproof, as long as the grower holds up his/her end of the deal. When you root prune, the object is to eliminate large roots that aren't attached to the trunk and are in unfavorable positions to make room for and increase the number of fine roots, which do all the work except anchoring and transport. You'll need to develop a feel for root pruning because all plants don't get the same treatment. Reread the thread about water movement in soil, and the one about trees in containers. Make sure you understand what's in those threads. If you do gain that understanding, it should make a significant difference in what you get back for your efforts. Best luck. Al...See MoreWhat's the best self fertilizing kiwi to grow in zone 5?
Comments (24)I know this is an old post, but was close to what I am searching for. I have a September sun and a victor female kiwis. I also have a male, can't remember the name off hand,I think it is a pasha or something like that. I planted all three last spring. To my surprise the females had flowers, but not the male. I was happy that they flowered and hope next year the male does also. So, yesterday I happened by the trellis and noticed some long runners that I do not want and was going to cut them off. When I lifted some leaves to see if the flower pedals had fallen off, I was even more surprised to see tiny fruit where the flowers once were. I don't know of any other kiwis around or even in the township I am in. Being that the male didn't flower, I am wondering why there are fruit on the females? Will the eventually fall off before ripe. I couple are fair size and hanging on pretty tight....See Moreplanting potted heather in zone 5
Comments (4)I would return this Heather also if it is not zone hardy here. Before buying any Heath/Heathers you really need to know your soil PH. You can buy a device at the box stores and they are reasonable - around $5. Soil PH will tell you what type you can have. I am typical Ohio with clay soil and neutral soil bordering on alkaline. I can only use certain Heath's here but mine look great and to boot they are on my SW side so lots of sun and open to quite a bit of winter winds. I did not amend my soil. I lost a few the first winter but it's been great since then. Why battle soil amendments forever when you can just buy some that are alkaline tolerant. I got mine online for a source of what I needed. Cher...See MoreFall Splitting and Transpanting Strategy Zone 5
Comments (6)I second that recommendation, Creek-side...to leave till spring, then divide and remove the other roots. Would not advise overwintering in cellar. However, you may have already split them up? ("I am splitting them...." )If that is the case, just gather them all back together in a mass, dig appropriate hole to accommodate all and deal with them in the spring. Tamp ground around hostas to anchor them, water, then mulch as per Ken. Congratulations on your "inheritance"! The work to eliminate those weeds must have been satisfying! The bed must look great free from all that mess. Welcome to the forum! Hope to hear from you again. :-) Jo...See MoreBabka NorCal 9b
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agoin ny zone5
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agoken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agohostaLes
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agonucci60
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agousgirl
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agonucci60
12 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
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