Blackie, so it is...Thanks. I have it listed wrong on my chart. Suzy, Good memory. They promised scaffolding (and is one reason why I picked them), but they did not come through. They did temporary ladder to ladder scaffolding from time to time, but there was still constant ladders in and out of all the beds. The tri-clematis wall was the tightest space and got the most damage, but I'm hoping the plants will be back to normal next year. They also stepped on an emerging martagon lily that suffered a lot. And some emerging hosta tips got bent resulting in torn foliage. And this was with them being extra careful where they stepped due to the obsessive gardener/homeowner in their midsts! If we could have done it in March as planned, it would have been fine. The timing was super close. Mounting the painted trellises back up on the wall was the very last step. Niobe was growing in leaps and bounds those last few days. The bottom of the trellis was covered in Niobe as soon as it was mounted. The bad part about the painting job is that they might have to come back in the fall to redo some spots that the primer did not adhere to well and got some blistering. I think I would rather take the risk of the paint peeling than have to deal with painters again :-)

There are a lot of different species of Fusarium and yes, some of the same ones that infect tomatoes can infect hostas. The main thing is to use good sanitation practices when dividing - use disinfecting wipes between each cut - since the fungus typically invades a plant after it is wounded. The fungus also favors cool temps and dry conditions, so don't let things dry out too much. We don't see Fusarium too often in hostas, but when a plant is drastically struggling you can check the roots and crown to see what is going on and it is best to pitch any plants that you suspect may have it. But don't lose sleep over this one - it is just another issue in a long list of things that attack hostas. I see bacterial rot more often in potted plants, usually after plants have been severely divided, and again, good sanitation can help prevent this.

Someone recently posted a photo of two huge borders on opposite sides of the sidewalk in San Diego's Balboa Park. One solid border of Julia Child and one solid border opposite of Love Song. Now that blew me away, even though I wouldn't landscape my small garden and lawn in that style. It was gorgeous. I wish I could remember who posted this photo or link. I would dearly love to have a separate border of roses and perennials, annuals, etc for cutting, but there is no room. It's a wonderful idea that I know others out there must have. Maybe they can show us how they've done it. I do have a pink border that runs a short ways makes a bend and runs along a fence. This is in a prominent place, but the border is a mixture of several Evelyns, Royal Bonica, Memorial Day, Brother Cadfael, Jude the Obscure (not really pink), and Frederic Mistral, all held together with a combo of three heights of pink snapdragons, daisies, and alyssum (hope I didn't bore you with this list). The perennials and annuals hold the whole thing together since the roses are a variety of types. It works, though. I'll try to find some new pics, instead of the same old. I Agree about Julia and have mine in very prominent position, with my small yellow Bernstein- Roses slightly down the slope, reinforcing the lovely yellow of Julia. I hope you get some creative suggestions and photos to answer your questions. Diane

I like the look of a sweep of similar sized hosta. Make you divisions as similar as possible. If, after a year or two, some seem to much larger than the others I shovel prune to even things up a bit. I only shovel prune one side as I don't want to cut off all of their roots. I donate extra plants or give them to neighbors but when the removed portion is too small-compost.