definatly remove the dome. if they keep too much moisture under it , it will mold also. after they germinate the dome needs to come off.

I agree with Busy1 (never argue with a pro like busy1)!

I remove the germination dome as soon as the seeds sprout. Sometimes I don't even use a germination dome. I'm not sure I see sprouts any faster with a germination dome than I do without one.

Keeping plants under lights 24/7 is not recommended. They need a rest period just like humans do. By keeping your seedlings under lights all the time, you are stressing them by denying them a rest period. Stressed plants are very vulnerable to disease.

Also, your seedlings look a wee bit leggy. The lights should be so close to the plants that they almost touch them. I keep my lights about one inch above the seedlings. If you keep the lights close to the seedlings, you will have shorter, stockier, healthier seedlings with better root systems because they aren't having to put their energy into stretching to reach the light.

I don't water on a schedule of any sort of all. I just stick my finger in a couple of cells in the flat to see if it is dry. I keep the soil only lightly moist to even a bit on the dry side. The worst thing you can do is overwater as it leads to diseases. Depending on what plants are in what flats, all my flats don't even need water on the same day. Watering on a schedule can lead to seedlings that stay too wet for their own good.

I suggest you leave these specific seedlings uncovered and see if the leaf spotting goes away. It may be too late for that to happen and I'm not going to recommend spraying them with a fungicide because most fungicides available to home gardeners work better to prevent fungal infections and not so well to "cure" them after they have appeared on a plant. Plus, since your plants are so tiny, I cannot tell by looking at them if they have a fungal issue going on or a bacterial one.

When you water, use a very small watering can, a small pitcher, a plastic glass or something similar and gently water the soil-less mix taking extreme care to keep the foliage dry. Do everything you can to keep moisture off the foliage. Wet foliage kills more tomato plants than anything else on this earth. For large greenhouse growers, it can be difficult to water large numbers of seedlings without getting water on the foliage, but for a home gardener with fewer plants, it is not that difficult to do.

I know you're probably a bit disappointed that the seedlings are giving you problems, but every experience is a good opportunity for learning and improving your methods.

Dawn

Of course, both of the experts above are correct. I do use a dome, but I remove it as soon as I can see the first green sprout.

Other things noted are that you are probably a little early in your planting, lights need to be close to your plants as Dawn mentioned, and they need some air movement. Once they germinate, they don't need much warmth either. The lights themselves will produce heat so don't have your flats on a heat mat after germination.

They want to grow, so with just a few changes, they should do fine.

You mentioned the reason you kept your lights on 24/7 was to provide heat for the as yet ungerminated seeds. Uneven germination does present challenges. You might try germinating using the coffee filter method, then moving the sprouts to your light set up.

Copy/paste from comments I have left on another thread:
I will once again use the coffee filter/baggie method for sprouting seeds. I used it for the first time last year and really liked it because of the compact space requirements. I didn't have to fret over whether to toss an unsprouted cup or leave it a little longer. A seed didn't get a cup until it had sprouted. This also was more frugal in that I didn't feel the need to double sow in cups.

I've also linked a recent thread where I went into more detail on the coffee filter method. If you have questions, I'll be more than happy to answer them.

Congratulations on your efforts. You've found a great place to ask questions and learn.

All the best,
Seedmama

Here is a link that might be useful: Scroll down for comments on coffee filter method

When using your sink nozzle, are you hitting the foliage when you water? That could be causing the brown spots also. I never spritz the foliage because that's inviting fungal problems. Try bottom watering instead.

Susan

Uhh, I'm no expert by a long shot, but i have started a few seeds. Probably not near as many as Dawn has.

I do use a dome, to try and get an even germination. I was a beginner at one time also and made my share of mistakes, still do.

Air movement is just as important as watering and temperature control to me. The air movement will help strenghthen the plant , but will also dry it out if too much.

I try to get a indirect flow just enough to give them a little wiggle once in awhile. Also if you do get water on the foilage the air will help to dry it.

Also i have tried the infared heaters and discourage that type of heat for plants. It tends to dry the plant leaves out faster then heating the surroundings.

sometimes you win and sometimes you lose in this game. All you can do is try again if at first you dont succede.

We have all been there at one time or another and we are still learning.

Just keep an eye on them and see if the newer leaves look better. Being that they are leggy,and if they were mine, i would let them get their first true leaves and transplant them to deeper containers. Getting as much of the stem covered up and going with the suggestion of letting them rest at night, getting some air movement, and getting the light closer so they arn't reaching for it.

you all are so incredibly helpful. I'm sad, but not depressed about this. It's all a learning experience. I actually started them this early BECAUSE I anticipated 'growing pains,' being a newbie and all. I'm going to remove the dome and point a little fan at these cutie pies. I'll also heed the advice to move the lights closer and take them off the mat. Also, I'll take care to not get the foliage wet. Hopefully, these can still be salvaged!

Mark,

Take heart. You're not alone. Things will get easier as you go. Yes, trial and error sometimes stinks but it's the only way to learn. Stumble, fall, get up and try again.

Last year was my first attempt at starting from seed. I started several flats of peppers and tomatoes fairly early and royally messed up. So to make sure I got off on the right foot, I dumped them all (yes, all of them), changed my setup and started over again. All 150+ seedlings survived and thrived and I had beautiful little transplants to plop in the ground and share with friends a few weeks later.

Not to be a pessimist but have you considered starting a few seeds as a back up just in case your plant babies have the cooties? If you end up with too many plants, I guarantee there's always someone willing adopt them.

Good luck!
Lynn

Lynn,
Thanks for the encouraging words. I am going to have to start some as back ups. The romas seem to be the only ones with the "cooties" so far - the others aren't effected. I am thinking about pulling the affected seedlings and making the best of what is still OK. I'm going to give them a few days, just in case. Luckily, I started early because I anticipated screwing up.

Here's my revised setup:

The tallest ones are the one that are affected, so I'll probably clip those and lower the lights down to get the little guys. Here goes nothing!

Mark, I agree. If they look sickly, yank them. I'd also lower the lights a little more until they are almost touching the leaves. Listen to me being so bossy...sorry!

You're not being bossy, you're being helpful! I've yanked the gnarly lookin' ones, but luckily there are lots that are still OK...for now. hopefully I caught them in time.

I've also lowered the lights to 1" above the top of the tallest ones. Would it be a good idea to put a supplemental light on the sides too?

The plants should be fine without any more lights added from the sides, unless you have plants that stick out beyond the lights and are light-starved.

I always rotate my flats around on the shelf and move them every couple of days so that everyone gets light equally. You don't have to do that, but I do it anyway.

I have said this before, but it works for me so I will mention it again. I don't put lights on my top shelf, but I use the top shelf for germination because the heat from the second shelf rises and heats the soil. To better conserve this heat that is being generated anyway, I use mylar camping blankets that I buy for about $3 in the camping department at WM and throw them over the top and almost enclose 'the germination chamber'. On occasion, I have let one hang down the back of the light shelf where the plants are growing. It is bright and shiney and reflects a lot of light toward the plants. Since I am already paying for the electricity, I might as well use all of the heat and light that is there. I have never owned a heat mat.

I like that idea, Carol. I could hang one on the side of my kitchen shelf that has a florescent light on it and use that to better advantage.

Susan

Just a follow-up...
About 5-6 got yanked, but the rest have made a full recovery! I now have them under LED grow lights which don't get hot, so I can get the lights practically on top of the plants. they're thriving and healthy now. thanks for all the great advice!!

Glad to hear they are doing well for you now. Good job!

Congrats, Markyd! That is good news and I know you're happy about it. Good growing.....

Susan

Mark,

I'm glad they made a good recovery.

Dawn