Good luck! I was in your position a year ago, I had moved into my first house and created my first vegetable garden. I'm in a very different zone (6A) and my season is winding down, but I think I had a very successful summer with my first garden, given that it was very cool and rainy for all of June and July. Here is what I did, for what it's worth. I had the area tilled where I wanted to create a garden (it was grass). I then raked out all the big clumps of grass left behind, and added them to my new compost bin. I then had 2 yards of topsoil and 2 yards of compost delivered (my garden is 16'x16'). I think adding the topsoil and compost really added the nutrients needed and eliminated any grass re-growing in the area. But, after finding this site, I realize a soil test would have been a good idea. After I planted, I mulched with salt hay to keep down any weeds (make sure if you use straw you ask if there are any seeds in the straw). I hope this information helps in some way! Good luck and above all, have fun! Use this site often for advice, I do and there are many people with years of experience and knowledge who have helped guide me through my first year as a gardener! p.s. consider creating a compost bin, if you haven't already, you can create your own garden fertilizer with it. I got mine through the town public works department for a very reasonable price

Before spending money on something called "soil" take a good look at the soil you already have. It does little good to add to bad soil some even really good soil but even bad soil with the proper amendments can be made good and often at lower cost then buying some kind of "soil". Contact the people at your local office of the Washington State University Cooperative Extension Service about having a good, reliable soil test done so you know your soils pH and present level of certain nutrients and then dig into your soil with these simple soil tests, 1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. which can guide you in making the soil you have into a good, healthy soil that will grow strong and healthy plants better able to ward off insect pests and plant diseases. Here is a link that might be useful: WSU CES

IF IT WERE ME .... find the best/closest soil selling place ... go there... find some nice soil ... i might have to visit a couple places ... then i would order enough to make a small bed .... couple yards ???? flatten it enough so you can water it... and put all 75 into this one bed .... maybe on a 1 foot by one foot grid .... and start watering... make a map ... and walk away .... BECAUSE YOU NEED TO WORK ON THE HOUSE .... ... i would try to have everything planted within 30 days.. so they can grab hold.. and not heave during the winter ... you will have most of october and november.. to figure out what to do with heavy clay .. and maybe start a few beds.... for moving the plants in the spring ..... BUT THE PLANTS SHOULD BE IN THERE WINTER LOCATION BY 9/15 AT THE LATEST IN ZONE 5 .... but just in case it all gets too over whelming.. they will already be in the pile of good soil ....... i dont know if the typed word is expressing what i am trying to say .... all i know.. when i moved... plants really interfered.. with finding out where all the pots and pans and sheets.. and everything else you need is packed ... try to make the plant part as easy and fast as possible... good luck and congrats on the new house ... ken

Yes, I do see the dandelion leaf in that shot now, I think. And the small dandelion plant in the last one. They very well could be multiple things there. I will look at some Erigeron species and compare them to what I have outside. Thank you very much, again!