Dingo, I have studied the Edmunds and Austin catalogs, but the own root, bare root rose availability, though seen by me, did not register. I believe the deep rooted assumption, since I have been growing roses for just short of 50 years, that bare root roses are always grafted roses, kicked in. Own root container grown roses are still a wonder to me, yet alone own root, bare root roses! Thank you for reinforcing a new concept to me. Rifis, thank you for bringing this to my attention, I did read that and thought it was possibly a misprint. Since the bareroots are primarily grafted on vigorous rootstocks, I thought own root roses were not husky enough to take the fall harvesting, cleaning, and winter cold storage as a, say multiflora rootstock rose can, and be sold as bare root roses, just like grafted roses. Now my question is, "Do they perform as well as container grown roses?"

I agree with Sheila - most of us use the opportunity of planting a rose to do some spot enhancing of the organic material in our soil. I agree that top dressing with organic material is the best long-term solution to improving the soil, but as a short term boost for the soil mixing in compost or something else organic has been very effective for me. I contrast beds where I have been planting roses this way for some time, and the soil in the entire bed becomes this lovely textured and rich soil that I can dig in with my fingers, while beds that I only top-dress haven't worked in that organic material very deeply yet even though they've all been planted the same amount of time. Having said that, you don't have to amend with anything if you start out with good loamy soil like you describe, so there's no particular need to do as much as you've done or certainly to add anything more. For me, the second set of additives is a bit more effort than I want to put in but it sounds fine being all organic and slow acting. The one thing you don't want to do in any new planting is add fast acting fertilizers which for me include most granular fertilizers. Biotone and other organic fertilizers break down more slowly and don't run the risk of burning sensitive feeder roots. I simplify your latter list and add just manure, alfalfa hay, and something to lighten the soil that I can buy in large bulk and relatively cheaply (lately it has been cotton burr compost). My preference is to add no more than 1/3 other substance to the existing soil, since you want the rose to get used to the conditions it's going to expect from here on out rather than getting hooked on any particular amendments at the outset. You've obviously been successful with 1/2 supplements so go with what works for you. I always soak bare roots and you'll find a majority of us do the same, and a majority of the vendors specifically recommend soaking the roots. The principle is to make sure the rose is adequately hydrated to handle the transition to the ground. One look at dried out husks of body bag roses indicates how important hydration is for bare root roses. Cynthia

with my near beach sand .... i HAVE TO remove potting media ... and plant in native soil ... ergo ... i would bare root a potted plant ... when moving a plant just across the yard.. there would be no reason to bare root ... and here is the important part .... IF I CAN LIFT THE CLUMP ... AND HOIK IT AROUND THE YARD ... without hurting myself.. or my bert.. if i had one.. lol ... so.. perhaps you are mixing potting info.. with in ground plants ... ken btw: dig the new hole first ... approximately ... so you can dig the plant.. and just hurl it into the new hole... when you are to tired to dig the next new hole.. you know its time to not dig another hosta.. lol ... ps: btw ... with the sand ... its near impossible to dig a ball of soil... it all falls off by itself ... so whether i want to bare root it or not... it kinda does anyway ... except on a huge old clump .. where all the roots hold it there ... this was a problem with moving conifers... and trees ...

I have only two Austins (Golden Celebration and Darcey Bussell) on DH roots and they are planted in a spot with Sycamore root competition, which is probably the only reason I can grow them there. They both have spotless foliage. I am inland quite a bit and at 1800ft. We do get May-Gray and June-Gloom, but it burns off by between 10AM and noon. I have Paul Neyron, which is a rust bucket right next to Rein de Violettes with pristine foliage, never a spot of rust or mildew. All my Teas get a little mildew except Monsieur Tillier. My Lady of Shallot is on her own roots and does very well with perfect foliage. I really want Evelyn but now I am a little scared by the 12 foot canes jerijen mentions. I have Star of the Republic with only a couple blooms that have been scented and I really want scent in my roses so thinking about replacing with Evelyn. But will give SotR a 3rd year to see if those blooms get consistent scent. The 3 or so blooms that I caught with some scent were an amazing strong lemony fragrance. Maybe just doesn't give scent in the heat? I also have James Gallway on its own roots and near Golden Celebration but further from the sycamore. It is establishing more slowly and not behaving like a climber at all yet, next year with be year 3 so maybe I'll get long canes in the Spring.