How and when to pinch back tall phlox?
13 years ago
Featured Answer
Sort by:Oldest
Comments (11)
- 13 years ago
Related Discussions
How/when/where to "pinch" plant for bushier container growth?
Comments (14)You don't need to be the bus driver to know what makes the wheels go around. I'm sure a good number of growers know a lot about how milkweed will respond to pruning even if all they use in their predictions is their experience working with other plants. While there are a few plants that don't respond to pruning in ways we might expect (Norfolk Island Pine, for one) most plants (and I mean at least 99%) respond just as you would expect them to respond when you alter the balance of growth regulators that determine whether the plant concentrates it's growing efforts in additive or multiplicative growth. Your plant, is naturally apically dominant, so it wants to grow additively, and it is. To change it's habit temporarily to multiplicative (more branches instead of longer branches) you need to remove the source of the growth regulator (auxin) that is inhibiting multiplicative (lateral) growth. The most significant source of auxin is found in apical meristems (growing branch tips). Dr Carl Whitcomb often notes there is a "4-inch rule" that applies to pruning containerized plants. He suggests that removing an apical meristem affects the growth of other nodes for a distance of about 4" proximal to the cut. So - removing a branch tip affects the growth on that branch for approximately 4" behind that cut. I have a lit of experience doing hard pruning of plants, in which I remove up to 100% of the green growth on a given branch (or even the entire tree). I can attest that harder pruning of one branch can affect the back-budding response of the entire plant. IOW - the harder you prune, the more latent buds you can expect to be activated. Also, as noted above, WHEN you prune and how much stored energy the plant has at the time you prune impacts back-budding response. Healthy trees with lots of stored energy will be much more cooperative when it comes to back-budding than plants that are just getting by. In the picture you posted, I would have either pruned just above the first pair of leaves, then pruned again after the 2 branches that grew from buds in the leaf axils had 3 pairs of leaves - I'd have pruned the secondary branches back to 1 pair of leaves, too. If I had originally pruned back to 2 sets of leaves, I would wait for a week to ensure bud activation in all 4 leaf axils and would remove the top 2 leaves if it didn't occur in the bottom set. You really have a lot of time to pinch most plants. I pinch hardy hibiscus at least 3 times. It gives me shorter, sturdier plants and lots more blooms. In fact, I pinch a LOT of plants very regularly to force them to grow in ways I want them to grow, instead of allowing them to do their own thing. Some plants I've pinched with the specific intent of altering their growth habit: Al...See MoreAre you supposed to pinch back Phlox paniculata?
Comments (15)terrene, Good news that your Eupatorium has not produced seedlings. Maybe it is the mulch. I mulch a lot, so I will remember to do that thickly around it and see what happens. Usually I deadhead it. chelone...my first year with phlox too. I have steered away from it for fear of mildewed ugly plants. Every time I have seen them at the nursery, they are all a mess, even those that claim to be mildew resistant. The NLeigh I picked up at a supermarket..lol. I had to take it home, because it was the end of the summer, the foliage looked great and the price was right. :-) As for my wrists, I am hanging in there and trying not to overuse at this point but doing ok. I doubt I will ever be in a position to keep up with the Idylls again though, chelone. I discovered that was way too much typing for me. It doesn't help that I usually have too much to say either. [g] Thanks for asking. Hope you are enjoying your summer in my favorite state. :-) entling...I will see how mine does this year and report back. I will have to notice exactly how much sun it is getting. Thanks all! :-)...See MoreWhen to pinch and when to stop on established and new clems
Comments (8)All your type two clematis should be treated as type III clematis for the first year or two after you plant them. That means each winter/earlyspring they should be cut back to within a few nodes of the ground. As they come up, you can pinch the growing tips out after 4 to 5 leaves have developed. After having done this the first two years or so, I would not be pinching them out since they bloom on older wood and you might be pinching out blooms. Of course don't know if you can do this in your zone or not since I don't know the length of your growing zone, but in my zone I treat all my type IIs as type IIIs and hard prune them all every winter. I have Proteus, Piilu, Sunset, and Blue Light all up and over 4 feet tall after treating them as type IIIs last winter....See Morewhen/how to pinch
Comments (2)If you want to encourage more side branches which will bear flowers, "top" the plant by snapping off the center of the uppermost growth at about 15" tall, or 3-4 leaf sets. It will produce a fuller plant, not shorter than it is destined to be genetically. Just reach in with thumb and forefinger nails and snap off the center tip between two leaf nodes. This is easiest when the plant is cool and fullest of moisture: evening or early a.m. The only thing not to do is harm the little new growths on either side of your breaking point. You won't. It's easy as pie and a good way to get green thumbnails. The link offers two very detailed methods of topping dahlias. It's a bit involved for my needs, but may be helpful. Here is a link that might be useful: Dahlias.net...See More- 13 years ago
- 13 years ago
- 13 years ago
- 13 years ago
- 8 years agolast modified: 8 years ago
- 8 years ago
- 8 years ago
- 8 years ago
- 8 years ago
Related Stories
KITCHEN DESIGN9 Questions to Ask When Planning a Kitchen Pantry
Avoid blunders and get the storage space and layout you need by asking these questions before you begin
Full StoryCONTAINER GARDENSContainer Garden Basics: How and When to Water Potted Plants
Confused about soil moisture, the best time to water and what watering device to use? This guide can help
Full StoryDECORATING GUIDES12 Decorating Scenarios When You Should Do Nothing at All
By embracing the positives of negative space, you can strategically highlight key furnishings, give the eye a rest and create focal points
Full StoryREGIONAL GARDEN GUIDESSoutheast Gardener's February Checklist
Pinch, prune and prepare this month — springtime's riches in the garden will be here before you know it
Full StoryWINDOW TREATMENTSGive Your Windows a Wave
Try ripplefold draperies for a fluid look that's fabulous on tall windows
Full StoryGARDENING GUIDESSuperstar Annuals for Containers and Baskets
High performing, low maintenance and all-around gorgeous, these container plants go the distance while you sit back and relax
Full StoryKITCHEN DESIGNHow to Choose the Right Depth for Your Kitchen Sink
Avoid an achy back, a sore neck and messy countertops with a sink depth that works for you
Full StoryLIFEHow to Prepare for and Live With a Power Outage
When electricity loss puts food, water and heat in jeopardy, don't be in the dark about how to stay as safe and comfortable as possible
Full StoryMOST POPULARFirst Things First: How to Prioritize Home Projects
What to do when you’re contemplating home improvements after a move and you don't know where to begin
Full StoryFALL GARDENINGFrost-Hardy Foliage That Loves a Cold-Climate Garden
When winter cuts a bleak swath through other plants, these edibles and perennials flourish brilliantly
Full Story
Nancy Vargas Registered Architect