The lower 1/2 of an older shrub is often bare and unattractive. There are two approaches to rejuvenating the shrub (other than replacing it). The easiest and worst way to do it is to just hack the whole thing down. It will most likely come back, but in desperation, the lilac may send up lots of suckers that grow straight up and take years to strengthen and develop any character or blooms. The best way to rejuvenate an older lilac is to remove 1/4 to 1/3 of the oldest, woodiest stems as close to the ground as possible. At the same time, cut back the remaining branches a few inches, being sure to leave enough leaves to feed the plant for the summer. This encourages suckering. The following spring, do the same thing again, removing more of the oldest remaining stems. If there are too many suckers forming, select the strongest few and trim out the rest. Continue this process each spring until the shrub has been totally rejuvenated. Here is a link that might be useful: Lilac care

Thanks for all the great suggestions, everyone! I will keep doing my research! Robert, you nailed it -- I think I'm partial to the antique roses, or at least those that mimic the lovely prolific blooms and fragrance. I'm lucky in that my hedge can grow pretty much as tall and wide as it needs to be... it will cut into my current garden space the deeper it goes (although nothing is planted in front at the moment), so started considering ramblers/climbers to go for more of a "spill" than a formal hedge; the wire fence could definitely act as a support, and it's in full sun. I'm hoping for a cottage look... I'm starting my teas garden elsewhere, as I do love them, too, but I'm yearning for the big, wild, mass o' roses look... Connie, I was debating that thought! Cecile Brunner was entrancing me the other night. I'm new to this particular forum set-up, so I'll have to read all the Antique Rose pages; a meetup sounds lovely. (I'm dying to investigate rose gardens around here!) Ann, thank you for the info... I definitely want to do my research before doing any major planting! There's some learning from experience in everything, I'm sure, but after home renovations, I'd like to avoid as much heartbreak and wasted effort as possible. ;) There's something to be said for feasible dreams... I have lilac and azaleas growing nearby; I could definitely inter-plant with more lilac or other shrubs; I definitely seem to like shrubs and bushes in general. I will read that ebook first thing tomorrow. Kad, your Sophie is gorgeous! I was worried because the Austin rep made it sound like they might all die miserably in the humidity... scared me, but I'm determined to find a few Austin roses to plant. Congratulations on having the house in order! I almost want to throw myself a party on finally fully unpacking the last boxes here. ;) I've been waiting for decades to be able to properly let myself fall under the spell; there's no escaping it! Oh and yes... no freezing to -25F here in Virginia. That's what I get for trying to post after staring, glossy-eyed, at rose websites until the wee hours. ;)

Hello in Waterloo. I was going to suggest Thuja occidentalis 'Rushmore' which is compact and narrow and was bred for extremely harsh winters but it grows 12" a year heightwise. Are you definitely wanting to limit height as well as width? Wisconsitom, your hedge sounds very nice indeed. If you definitely want a low hedge, Thuja occidentalis (Arborvitae) 'Sherwood Frost' might also be nice. It has variegated white foliage, is globose and grows at the same rate as 'Woodwardii' so you could have a mixed hedge or choose one or the other. They will either be small or expensive or both however. Whereas, a 3 ft. 'Rushmore' could be had for about 36 USD which is what I paid for one a year ago just to use as a single specimen. Good luck.

Our rain is unpredictable. Technically we are listed at 30" per year but........ That depends. We have been in that same drought you are probably in for the last several years but sometimes we get a lot so its hard to plan what to grow, its crazy making. This spring was real wet and I had some plants suffer. I'm on a slope with good drainage so that helps. The last few summers had straight endless weeks of daily 100+ temps with no rain almost all summer. We also have high humidity during periods in summer, it depends on what the weather decides to do to us, we are at its mercy in so many ways. I don't do hardly any watering here. Its survival of the fittest but I will relent when weeks have gone by on certain plants or if I am establishing something new. All the kinds of Miscanthus need supplemental water in summer here. The ones around here died in the last few years unless they were irrigated and many of them looked like crap from the heat. The Pennisetum grasses need a lot of watering or else they look bad. I avoid both of these thirsty grasses. Since we have been so dry in the last several years, it should give a good idea of what will do OK for you there on such little rain, but 5" is extreme, ouch! The muhlys all look great without any supplemental water, including the regal mist. I read that M. rigens thrives on drought. I believe it, mine grew fast in that dry heat and was as healthy looking as you could ask for, same for the Pine Muhly. The M. lindhemeiri gets much bigger with more water but did fine during the drought. These really vary in size a lot depending on conditions. I had one growing by the air conditioner drain and it was a monster in size while the ones growing dry were much smaller. In Texas where the drought was much worse, some of the muhly's went dormant and looked awful in 2012 but I think they came back OK from what I read on the Texas Forum. They seem to be programmed to withstand the drought. I know you would do very well with the Sacaton wrightii. I bought 4 of those improved huge sized ones for a 'hedge" that they sell at High Country Gardens and didn't like it. It grows very very fast but the leaves are sort of wide and it wasn't to my liking like the unimproved ones I grew from seeds and replaced it with. I also bought that Muhly lindheimerii/capillaris hybrid one called 'Flamingo'. Its gorgeous. As an isolated specimen that improved Sacaton might do well for you if you want a TRUE MONSTER Grass. The Ravenne grass seems to be made of cast iron. These cook along the highways and look fine, no watering. They are common along with Crepe Myrtle and Chaste Trees which all seem to be indestructible here. The grass stands real straight and very tall. We are so windy here, most of the trees trunks lean toward the north, but not the grass. I always consider the highway test as 100% reliable on drought hardiness. All of the native grasses you mentioned are also used a lot in that way. The Mexican Feather Grass is often planted with pink blooming hesperaloe and thats a nice drought hardy combination. The Switch Grasses are used too in mass plantings along the roads and seem to do fine with little water here. I think they will do well either wet or dry. I'm so jealous you got to go to Plants of the Southwest. I would love to visit the nursery sometime. I have two desert Four O'Clocks I started from seed I got from them last fall. I have tried the Feather Dalea seeds without luck four years now. I can get them to germinate but then they die. I have good luck with various penstemon, Russian Sage, Lantana, Blackfoot Daisy, Desert Marigolds, Salvia Greggii and Flame Acanthus but not Agastache. I see other people growing it but mine always die. I don't know why. I have lots (too many) of kinds of cactus and cold hardy agave but the cats don't seem to mind them. The Apache Plume gets real thick if you prune it back hard in spring. Its very ornamental, at least to me, but I have weird taste or at least I seem to be in a tiny minority when it comes to plant tastes. Other ones I have that I love are Mormon Tea and Winterfat, you probably have that growing wild there too. I like the looks of the silver nightshade a lot, maybe I should investigate it a bit more. I don't want invasives.