It means your soil would make good vinegar with decent nutrition. What is throwing me off is the recommendation for lime. I assume they mean for a single application to be repeated frequently. The reason I say this is because 35-pounds per 1000/ft2 is not enough to raise a 5.1 anywhere near 7.0. Normally they would say something like 40 or 50-pounds per 1000/ft2 repeated every 90-days or twice annually or something like that for that low of a PH. Did they have any other verbiage with regards to lime in the recommendations? I do not have my tables out to reference too right now, but I can tell you it will take a lot more than single 35-pounds 1000/ft2 to raise 5.1 to acceptable limits. The deal is you cannot do it all at once and have to do it incrementally, so that is why I ask is there more verbiage included in the recommendations. As to your question, get the lime down ASAP to give it some time to work. Ideally you would have wanted to do this last spring and repeating again yesterday. Yes they mean 35-ponds per 1000/ft2 so if your lawn is 10,000/ft2 you will need 350 pounds to cover it.

I reseeded once and it was not a good experience because the seeds went everywhere. We didn't have this problem, but we're still using a drop spreader last time we over-seeded. Can imagine getting some in the beds with the hand broadcaster we're using these days. May need to rent a drop spreader if we over-seed the buffalo grass plugs we're going to trial in the backyard next month. Assuming you don't let it go to seed, the seed bank for annual should play out by about three years. A neighbor on the block over-seeded St. Augustine plugs last fall. Pretty certain it was annual; germination rate was low from an appearance perspective, but the rye did a fantastic job holding the topsoil on their sloped lot during all those spring rains. Pretty sure there would have been very muddy walks and gutters on the downhill side with the plugs and mulch alone.

1) Depending on how much water your system puts out, you might not need 40 minutes. But other than that, sounds good. The once a day watering is meant to let the top of the soil get just a little dry for a few hours a day to start strengthening the roots and letting more oxygen into the soil structure. But it's not critical. If it doesn't happen now, it'll happen at the once every other day watering. 2) Either-or. Starter and soy will play well together, and the soy's nitrogen availability is gentle but constant. The starter is more of a flash in the pan. If I recommended starter due to a low phosphorus level, it's probably more important to get the P flowing in than worry too much about overfeeding (which really won't happen anyway).

2 year update! The Turf Blue bluegrass has adapted very well to the NC environment. Disease has not been an issue - which is refreshing, and the cultivars in the mix are very aggressive - they filled in 6" holes left over from dead Bermuda in 6 weeks. The relationship with this mix has been a bumpy one. There have been periods when the grass looked lime green and I've seriously considered nuking it, but the fact it's so resilient stopped me. Meanwhile, I've learned to work with it, and it with me. I've learned that cutting below 2.5" produces some sort of reaction in the grass and it starts to put out massive amounts of new lime-green growth. As soon as I stopped trying to go lower and stabilized the HOC at 2.5", the color issue went away. Also, color has improved with age. And finally, PGR and FAS bump up the color significantly as well, bringing it into the acceptable range for my taste. Drought tolerance is similar to fescue, maybe slightly less. However, recovery from dormancy is outstanding, so even if it browns a little, it comes back with a vengeance. And where it doesn't, it spreads to fill in. It's peace of mind, and it's priceless. Because I know I can afford to push it and let go a little brown, I probably used less water on this summer that I used to use on fescue. Disease has not been an issue, brown patch doesn't touch it. So, I'm going into my 3rd years with the HGT mix. I am very pleased with its performance, and I expect even better now that it's mature. Color can be successfully managed, and it lives up to the H in HGT. Highly recommended as an alternative to fescue for the Transition Zone. http://lawniac.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/lawn_oct_2018.jpg