Thanks - that looks right. I had cut open a fruit and thought it looked fig-like, but the leaves looked nothing like a true fig tree. It looked for all the world like a tree. I guess it must have climbed a tree and taken over.

So I did a search and found an interesting study on collected rain water quality. Here's the link (hope it works here): http://www.harvestingrainwater.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/Effect-of-Roof-Material-on-Water-Quality-for-Rainwater-Harvesting-Systems.pdf In short, metal roofs seem the best in terms of low contamination, but none are really that bad as far as irrigation water is concerned. There are some studies which point to asphalt shingles as being good in terms of PAH (organic hydrocarbon) contamination. But there are conflicting conclusions on that. http://www.thecenterforrainwaterharvesting.org/2_roof_gutters3.htm What I would like to see studied is contamination levels on more modern roofing materials, such as the factory baked on painted metal roofs (standard fair for metal barns and roofs today). And some studies in an area with neutral rain water (the Texas study had fairly acidic rain). I have heard that the factory painted metal roof material was tested as the cleanest of the current roof materials, but I have not seen the tests that bear that out. In general though, it seems that using collected water to water a garden or orchard is likely safe, as long as you are not in an area of high pollution, and you don't have an unusual roof (like lead coated copper). If you have zinc surfaces that the water travels over (roof, gutters, etc) then high zinc levels might be a concern over the long run. Or if your roof/gutters have solder joints (lead) then that may be a concern. The more acidic your rain water is, the more concern about picking up heavy metals. Anyway, that's my take. You can find quite a bit of stuff to read on this topic with a quick internet search, so do your own research. Disclaimer, I am not a doctor nor a chemist and do not play either of them on TV.

Any pictures showing a wide hood? Under the hood I will have a 36" Gagg induction and a 12" wok cooktop. I have to work with the soapstone fabricators to figure the space between the woktop and the induction. I am thinking 2 inches but it may be more depending on the stone. I will likely install them with a 3" ledge in the front to make the reach to stir pots better based on advice from Fori (we are not very tall ;). So I should probably do a 30 inch depth huh! So with a 15 inch upper, the hood will stick out another 15 inches. What do you think about the pot rail? I thought they looked kind of pretty.. DH thinks they are useless and be a bear to clean.. Does the hood look kind of naked without the pot rail, you think? Michou monster --> Based on some older GW threads, I was under the impression that a Modernaire hood was in the range of 7 to 8K. As we have a irregular space (we have to fit the hood between beams in the ceiling and the vent is not centered, it was very difficult to work with OOTB options. I priced out other 54" hoods at 3.5 to 4K. I originally called modernaire to price out a liner. Modernaire quote to fit our 57" space with a liner was 2.5K but the full hood with painted finish was more like 3.2K. Still the very high $$ for a kitchen appliance !! My cabinet maker did not give me a full quote but said that to build a wood enclosure would be more like 2K. We would still have an odd gap/ grease trap on either side of the hood. Also looked extensively on ebay and CL for over 2 months. I would suggest giving Modernaire a call and getting a quote.

I checked out micro moths and.. yea, that's definitely in the right direction. I saw one called a Blastobasis adustella that looks similar. It isn't that one, but what I have has a similar speckily colors and wing shape. I'm not sure if they're moths though. They fly just like a gnat or fruit fly and hop like a leaf bug. if i see them again tomorrow, in daylight, I'll try to get a picture. I know that would be more helpful.