Want to expand your z5 semitropical and "tropical" options? Indiana Rick's website is inspirational! So many usefulul ideas there. I agree don't give up until you've tried it 3x and tested some tricks! Hardy Tropicals for Zone 5 !!!!! http://www.manchestergardenclub.com/rick/Tropicals/Tropicals.htm ________ Mulched here now in my more "gentle" z8b, until I have a backup clump stored to go "cold turkey". No the impressive Canna 'Durban" = 'Tropicanna' doesn't throw lower red spires! That's a compact Lobelia 'Starship Red' which has nice contrasting rich green leaves. This Cardinal Flower was easy to grow from seed* (as are Canna) and gets the hummingbirds darting all around to enhance the tropical theme. I like L. 'Vulcan Red' as well to for contrast. Dark maroon leaved and also more compact than L. 'Queen Victoria' with no staking needed. * After using many over the years, the best seed starting method that I've used over the years is a biodome and sponge block system or similar. Works best with heatmats and bright plant light. Effective, efficient, durable, flexible, and small footprint. http://forums2.gardenweb.com/discussions/4412727/looking-for-a-reliable-seed-starting-system

same here, Matt Hinkin on Channel 6 (WATE in Knoxville who never misses the forecast) promised low's at LEAST 35 by Sunday morning, and I will have to close at the Lowes I work at, meaning I'll be covering plants in the dark.......he said there'd be snow in the upper elevations of the Smokies.....Dogwood Winter, fer shur.....(and the honey locusts are blooming....sigh.......) wonder if it will be hard enough to restrict the black cherry crop on my tree? I hope not! At least the tree peony that is blooming right now will be thru by the weekend with all this heat. I identified it today, it is a Kamatanishiki and absolutely georgous! anyone wishing to see a picture of her from today's perfect blooming, give me a holler...... madgardener up on the ridge, back in Faerie Holler, overlooking English Mountain in Eastern Tennessee, zone 7, Sunset zone 36

There is a lot of conflicting information online about how to overwinter Colocasia/Alocasia/Xanthosomas. (As far as the bulb drying part goes) Some sites say wait until the first frost to pull up so that the plant knows to go dormant and send the nutritients down to the bulb and some places say to pull it up before the first frost or it will kill the plant. Which is it? Or maybe it doesn't really matter since both ways seems to work for people. I have Colocasia Esculenta Black Magic and it's outside in high 40's low 50's right now and it's still sending up new leaves so maybe I should wait until first frost? Also the drying part I'm a bit perplexed about. Do you let them dry OUTSIDE until they are dry or bring them inside to dry? It's in the 40's here in central Ohio now so not sure if I should leave outside with the bulb fully exposed. How long does it take to dry? Do I cut everything off except for the actual bulb itself? (roots, leaves etc) Does anyone know if there is some sort of online visual tutorial or video somewhere? Sorry for all the questions but I want to make sure I get it right so I can enjoy this plant for years to come. p.s. I already saw aphids on it outside multiple times after using an organic insecticide so there is no way I'm bringing it into the house still in dirt! :)

I am in the Fort Worth Area - I have never fertilized mine - if I did, I'm afraid I might not be able to get to my front door anymore -lol Mine face north - but I have a friend in the area whos EE face west and do well also with the shade of a tree inbetween them and the evening sun. ~Angie~ paxetamor: most people use photobucket.com to post photos - I do. You create an account for free with them, upload your pictures to their site and then under each picture there are 3 links...use the 2nd option HTML TAG - jjust copy and paste it into the body of your post on here and when you hit preview - your picture will be there!!!