Ms Minna, do you have extended or just brief freezes there? If we are going to have wet snow, I leave things be and only protect (which I've surely lost this year but its always worth a try) my big pot of annual geranium. If it's a dry hard freeze in the forecast indicating temps into the teens for several days, I move pots with young perennials into the carport, sometimes put them on my front porch that is protected on two sides and covered, cover plants racks with plastic (Home Depot clear industrial drum liners work great), or drape things pushed close together with old tablecloths, beach towels and hope the wind doesn't take those....anything to give them a few degrees protection. I had a flat of noble fir seedlings under my car one year :) I had 4x5" pots in racks, many, frozen solid in my carport this year for more than 72 hours (weird winter) and I don't think I've lost any....newly rooting rose and shrub cuttings, many first year perennials. The perennials are frozen back to the crowns in their pots, but I don't have any reason to think dead - are you sure yours are goners? What are they and how cold did it get?

I hve 2 3 inch spice pullouts on each side of my bumped out 27 inch deep sink base. Mine were ordered from my cabinet company though. I really like them alot. However, the bumped out sink makes me lose the back 3 inches or so of the pullout on the right since I can't access it from the other side. Not a big deal since the other one is empty. I have small spacers on each side of it since it did seem like it was going to rub on the sides with use. These are not pulled out all the way.

Just leave them be for now and monitor. If there's condensation on the inside of the container they don't need water. As it gets warmer, some of them might, but usually mine get by on spring rain/melt until it gets much closer to LFD. IMO, one of the biggest mistakes you can make is to take the lids off too soon. One 70 or 75 degree day here or there isn't likely to fry them, and as long as the night-time temps are low they can use the protection of the containers. A couple of years ago we had a little bit of a warm up in April. I took the lids off and many of my plants, especially the tomatoes, did not grow -- it just wasn't consistently warm enough. My mistake was totally removing the tops and discarding. I should have just pulled them back then closed them when it got cooler. If you're using milk jugs or 2L bottles, the extra warmth generated by keeping the tops on is more beneficial than not. Again, just monitor -- if the sprouts look like they're drying out, water. If they look like they're suffering from too much heat (wilting, etc.) then open them up during the day and close at night. It all depends on where you are, but if you're getting 70 then 38 then 60 etc. I'd keep the lids on for a while longer. You didn't mention when your LFD is. Mine's around April 30. Until then, the tops are staying on.

Hi, Donna! In my zone, if I transplant in spring I do so as soon as I can work in the soil. It all depends on how wet the ground is...I try to avoid compacting the soil around the hostas but if I get too enthusiastic and can't wait, I end up with more work...needing to fluff up all the soil I tramped on! :( the cultivation around the hostas is beneficial any time as it disturbs and exposes any eggs laid by slugs, etc. If it's too wet, then I wait until I see some pip activity (by that time the ground has warmed and dried somewhat) and get digging before they hostas are fully emerged. It's gratifying to see them in their new location, continuing to push out pips as if they've been there all along! :) In the fall I place markers in front of all hostas - they serve as a gauge for me where to start digging if I haven't left old flower scapes as markers (usually remove all old vegetation to avoid harbouring slug eggs). I love dividing and replanting in the fall but with the heatwave expected, spring it is! I used to divide, or relocate on a whim, all season long but the summers have been hotter each year and regardless of the after-care, I found it stresses most hostas. Those that hate to be moved put on a sulk and some years it set the plant back 2 years size-wise (GE as an example). Everybody has their own preferences (based on their experience, depending on their zone and length of growing season) for when it's best to move or divide their plants. The ultimate goal is to minimize stress on the hosta. Your zone allows you a longer growing season than mine. If your hostas have time to set roots before going into dormancy, go for it. If you are even slightly doubtful, wait until spring - it's much easier moving a leafless hosta! :-) Thanks, Donna for asking for my two cents. I got a wee bit chatty but enjoyed it! Lol :-)