Fantastic! Thank you guys....close to a Monstera then, but their labelling could have been somewhat better! I shall try very hard to keep up the good work (although I suspect the plant's success is more down to the plant itself than to anything I'm doing!! - maybe it just likes my windowsill.....) Thanks again - I'm off to read up on it now :-)

This is a lovely room! In a small space continuity is important. Before you add or paint anything else, paint the daybed and both chairs a dark brown, British Colonial as mentioned above. This way you can add the color you want here and there. The table in front of the daybed needs to be higher, like a tea table height. Use the chest on the side. To make the daybed more comfy, add old fashioned wedge pillows across the back and then the big pillows on top. They are the best support and you won't even see them. https://www.amazon.com/Bolster-Replacement-Insert-Cushion-Perfect/dp/B011CZWYT6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542001435&sr=8-3&keywords=wedge+daybed+pillow&dpID=41J6VtPqM6L&preST=SY300_QL70&dpSrc=srch

Accidents can happen and while I understand that every tree the nursery has means $$ when they sell it and discarding a piece of inventory means taking a loss on that item. Still, that doesn't make it right, selling it to an unwary customer. A wound like that can be an avenue for rot entering, weakening the trunk and eventual demise of the tree. You're paying (plenty for a tree that size) and shouldn't have to accept anything but a healthy tree in good shape. imo.

What is your concern? The plant is Ficus elastica 'Tineke'. If you can rely on the meter for an accurate pH level, 7.0 is about the upper limit. 6.0-6.5 would be more desirable and can be achieved by using an acid-forming fertilizer like Foliage-Pro 9-3-6, which is very likely the best choice you could make. Fertility and watering practices are inextricably intertwined. Ideally, you would water thoroughly each time you water, completely saturating the entire soil column, using enough water that at least 20% of the total volume of water used exits the drain hole. This type of watering ensures minimal build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil and that the actual ratio of nutrients in the soil does not become badly skewed over time. You'll do better if you skip the water meter and use a tell made from a 1/4-5/16" wooden dowel rod. Insert it in the soil all the way to the pot's bottom and water only when the soil is nearly dry. Tying your fertilizer applications to the number of times you have watered makes more sense than arbitrarily using the calendar as your guide. Fertilizing about every 4th or 5th watering during the dark months, and every 3rd or 4th watering during the long days of late spring - early fall is a good plan. Your plant wants very bright light, 4,000 - 8,000fc. Light diminishes by the square of the distance from the light source. What this essentially means is, a plant 5 ft from a window gets only 1/25 the amount of light it would receive if 1 ft from a window. I have many species of ficus and all are grown in full outdoor sun in summer. This is just general info. We would need to know what has you concerned in order to address the issue directly. Plants grow when they make more energy during photosynthesis than they burn during respiration. If your plant is not growing, it means the plant is using all it's current energy production, to keep it's systems orderly. Plants in this state are especially susceptible to insect herbivory and disease pathogens. Typically, if low light is not the limiting factor, it will be inappropriate nutrition or a root problem, like soil compaction, root congestion, or a fungal root infection, but as of yet, there isn't enough information to reach a conclusion re root issues. This link to Care of Ficus Trees in Containers might be helpful. Al