I am still moving stuff around - including a couple shrubs, which do not like it and they've suffered some dieback in the foliage, but they'll be okay in the long run. I have moved peonies in the Spring before and they will sulk, and probably the buds will die this year, but they were okay too. You may lose a few of very sensitive plants, but most will be okay. The summer and fall bloomers may even put on a good show this year. If possible, try to move them after a good rain or watering, when the plants are well-hydrated. Try to move on a cooler and cloudy day, as Marymd has said. Do not leave roots exposed to dry for any more than a few minutes, and water immediately in pots or bags. They should be kept well watered for the duration of the season. If they are planted into strong sun, setting up some temporary shade is helpful (umbrella, overturned chair, etc. and yes they look doofy!).

Hydrangea means "water vessel"......I read it somewhere, so Sue is right, water is the word!! You might put an upside-down lawn chair over it to shield it from the sun....when and if it's in the hot sun for a few weeks also. You might try taking some cuttings of this plant also, you might find in the long run, two years down the road, that the rooted cutting do better for you than the poor hacked-up plant! Five or six rooted cuttings planted 3 or 4 inches apart in a circle will make you a great plant!! Remember when you take cuttings you don't just have to take them from the top of the branch, you can use the whole branch, taking cuttings all the way down the stem. You can get 3to4 cutting per stem that way, they all root! Refer to some of the other posts on how to take and root cuttings if you have never done so, very simple, hydrangeas root like weeds!! Good luck! Donna

I gather than you don't have the option to wait til fall, so if it were me, I would try to dig them now before they leaf out, leaving as much soil as I could around them & transplant them into their permanent spot immediately. Of course, if these are really old clumps this would be hard, but I would try to keep as much intact as possible, not dividing them now. I know all the rules say they won't bloom the following year if you move them in the spring, but I have divided them a couple of times-before I knew about the rules-& they bloomed remarkably well the following spring. Keep in mind that some varieties may adapt more easily.

Go ahead and plant your tree peony. Think of the pot in your case as a solid plastic bag used for carrying. Most of the posts concerning putting in pots concern plants that will be kept in the pot for awhile. I would not fertilize when you plant wait until after the first freezes or my favorite time late December through early March. Fertilizing now could stimulate the buds on the plant to put out growth at this time of the year. Several people I know use afalfa pellets because they only release nutriants as they breakdown. I would cut off the current leaves. When I cut the leaves off I leave the leaf stems on the plant as I have many deer and the crown of stems pricks their noses and they tend to leave them alone when I have the crown. The crown does not stop them from cutting the stems below so put a wire cage around the plant for at least this year. Go ahead and plant the root section that fell off depending on the type you may have additional plants from them but not often. If any branches have been broken during the trip cut them off and place in moist soil somewhere shady. I have had deer broken stems grow. As far as eyes you may find some on the tree peony but generally they develop later in the year. The stem of most tree peonies contain both root and stem forming cells. New stems will first appear as small buds, called eyes on regular peonies, then the buds will start to grow unfurling the stem then the leaves as it breaks surface. On your regular peonies you should see pink and/or white nubs on the roots. These are what are called eyes. The color of the bud makes no difference in the color of the bloom. You probably will need a saw to divide the peonies. After dividing I like to allow the cut area to dry before planting. In my type of soil a moist cut can invite all kinds of bacteria and fungi into the root. You probably will see all kinds of white roots they are fine but if you see any old roots that look like a beads of a string cut those off and throw in the trash. These are caused by a nematode that causes roots to have thes knots. Most soils have this nematode but if yours is one of the rare soils that do not have any you don't want to become infected. FYI look at tree peony to see if it can be cut apart to form two or more plants. Some of the older ones when the roots are washed off will divide themselves and you end up with several plants.