Seeds are ready to be collected when they are ripe. It's a good idea to dry them for a couple of extra weeks. You can store them in plastic baggies or coin envelopes in the fridge.

Depends on the seed on how to plant it. Lupine you could plant directly in the garden this fall for next spring.

Check the seed saving and winter sowing forums for more good info. There is also a seed exchange forum for swapping.

Dave
lazyweeder

Hi there Kristin!
I am sure you will enjoy the wonderful world of seed saving and collecting and swapping! A valuable resource I have used is the seed site http://www.theseedsite.co.uk/ - it identifies seeds- pods- and how to grow info plus alot more- also http://tomclothier.hort.net/index.html , Tom Clothiers has a great site on seeds and seedy info-
Enjoy!
Julie

The BIG exception for drying seed are ephemeral plants - plants that come up in the spring, flower, produce seed and then go dormant during the hot summertime. Of course, this is only FYI, as these plants are long gone from view now, but ephemeral seed should not dry out and in general should be planted immediately after ripening.

Rick

I would sow them in the garden this fall, Lupines need to freeze to germinate. I bought a pack this spring to sow and the directions said that they needed to be put in the freezer for a week before I planted them. So if you are going to wait until spring you might want to put them in the freezer for awhile. I would definitely check out the website Julie recommended....they are really helpful!

Look to the Winter Sowing Forum for the easiest, most sucessfull germination ever- in my opinion! I started and grew more seeds last year to adulthood than I ever thought possible with out a prodction green house! It is a blast!
Have fun learning and trying!
Julie

Has anyone tried to save and store seed from the notoriously fussy spring ephemerals? Also, others that do not like to be dried and stored....like Fern Leaf Bleeding Heart, Jack-in-the-Pulpit, etc. It is my understanding that these (and some others) have a much higher germination rate if 'moist packed'. Any tips and tricks for moist packing?
Jan

The only way I have heard of is a moist paper toweling layer inside of a ziplock baggie in the fridge. Prairie Moon lists Jack in the Pulpit as needing cold/moist followed by warm/moist followed again by cold/moist in order to germinate- or to sow directly and wait 2 years for germination.
I have been trying to keep up with everyone's postings on the winter sowing in order to try it this winter but of course the things that I was looking to increase are mostly the spring ephemerals. I am trying to restore some of the spring wildflowers to our woodland. I swear there were Trillium Grandiflorum here when we moved in 15 years ago but nowhere to be seen now.
If you learn anything easier let me know-
Lynette

Nettie - you are a step ahead of me...I had not heard of the moist paper towel. Makes sense. I was thinking of sterilizing some soilless mix, moistening it and putting the seeds in that...then storing it in the refrigerator and later just do a winter sowing thing with the seed mix.

Interesting about the JIP's. I always have seed falling naturally which I smoosh into the soil and every spring I have lots of JIP seedlings. Kinda assumed it was from the fall seeding but could be from the previous year. The info on JIP's say the berry contains a seed inhibitor that must be thoroughly washed off for germination to take place. I have never done this...but am trying the washing routine on some of the seed this year.

It seems like for years I struggled to get some of the spring ephemerals established in my shade beds. Namely...Dutchman's britches (Dicentra cucullaria), False Rue Anemone ( Anemonella thalictroides) and Spring Beauty(Claytonia virginica). At this point in time...I may have been too successful! In the spring my shade bed has more than an adequate number of these neat ephemerals. And each year they just get more plentiful! Self-seeding, I assume.

I have not had a lick of success with Trillium grandiflora. Tried it twice and both times they died out after a couple of years. Assume it might have been a site problem....then again they are not native around here so maybe they just don't want to be this far north. The nodding trillium is our native Trillium and is everywhere.

Besides T. grandiflora, what other spring ephemerals are you looking for?
Jan

Yes we have the nodding trillium too and bloodroot- JIP is plentiful. I'd love to have the dutchman's breeches and "squirrel corn"(Dicentra canadense);hepatica and shooting stars(not sure if those two are ephemeral).
I've spent the summer clearing an acre of Oak woods of the buckthorn bushes and I'd love to be able to have a pathway through there and a wildflower walk. They used to keep cattle behind my house and so many of the natives have long since been trampled.

Nice choices Netti! What a delight to have reclaimed your Oak savanah! I am still working on my buckthorn... Who knew so many could grow in just one acre of suburb!
I have found that storing seed in homemade wax paper envelopes works well for me. Unlike plastic, they breath- but at a reduced rate. I have had mold develope in plastic but not in wax paper. To cold stratify- I add a drop or two of water and set in the fridge till I want them- then I can unfold the paper and reach every last seed without the frustration that the little zip plastic bags can cause. I have never had any trouble with the Dicentra seed losing viability with storage- but for others- I have sown when the seed ripens and not tried to store them. I hope this works well- as I have some wee west coast corydalis just peeking now- hope they make it through the Mid-west winter!
I have kept Soloman's seal- False soloman's seal and JIP seeds in the fridge whole to share with others- so far this has worked well, but I have only mailed them in the cool weather.
Say Jan- Just an FYI- I have tried to WS in garden dirt- bagged dirt- seed starting medium- vermiculite- compost- peat- and Miracle Grow Potting Soil. I ran out so I grabbed what I could find- Now, I will only ever use MG or my compost with a little osmacote added to Winter Sow with as the germinating and health of the plants was so dramatically different with anything other.
Happy seed gathering (and swapping)!
Julie

Julie - glad to hear some one else 'breaks the rules'. Don't you know if you use something other than soilless mix, your seedling will all be infected with damping-off and keel over? LOL. Couldn't agree more with your observation that anything but soilless mix produces better results for winter sowing. I like to use my own garden soil/compost and found that to produce the best results. Something like MG potting soil works good too.

This year I am trying to start False Solomon Seal by seed. Finally managed to collect some seed. Usually the critters beat me to it. Birds planted one for me in my shade bed several years ago, but want a bigger clump. Gonna just smoosh some of the seed in the soil and do the wash and clean method with the rest and 'moist store' in the frig.

I have not seen Dicentra canadense around here. Doesn't mean it doesn't grow here...just haven't come across it. Solomon's Seal is also a rare find.

Thanks, both of you, for the info on moist storage..
Jan

For Solomans Seal- False solomans seal, JIP and all others like them- I have just collected the berries and tossed them where I want them in the fall or winter-
I have them coming up all over! I have noticed though that the Jip's dont appear until the second year- and then with just a small leaf- after that- they take off fast! I have dug them up to find that the first year in the ground- the seed is spending all it's energy making itself into a bulb. Kind of like Martagons I guess. I have never paid much attention to the writing that the seed coat slows germination- It may be so- but you couldnt proove that by my findings.
I love the colors all of these berrie type seeds get- but none more than the false soloman's seal- clusters of small golden translucent orbs speckeled with cinnamon brown and rust that seem to glow in the smallest amount of sun!
Some time soon- I should stop looking at them and start harvesting them!

Julie

Sorry Julie, some drops of water with your seeds will not induce cold stratification. The moisture must be long lasting and the seed must still be able to breath. That can only be done with a planting medium. Sand or peat is best, IMO, because I don't have to worry about contamination. Sand has no nutrients for mold to grow with, and peat has naturally antiseptic qualities. Your winter sowing is a cold stratification.

Jan, I really don't know, but I wonder if we should take a clue from nature in storing ephemeral seed. In other words, leave them in the berry, pod, capsule, whatever - until ready to plant or stratify. Then soak/wash off the pulp.

Here I come with a very basic question. when you make your own envelopes out of wax paper or other paper. What do you use to hold them together? Tape or glue? If glue what kind?

Pauline

The advantage I see of wax paper over just any paper is that you can sorta see through it. When I use paper, I fold it so no taping, stapling or gluing is needed. Can't really explain how I fold in words, and it's not as fancy as the way European seed collectors do it, but if you'd like I could send you a sample. Now I wonder what Julie does . . .

Come to think of it, I suppose you could melt a seam together with an iron. But sure seems cumbersome.

Rick

I use tape. Thinking of trying the template on the link below which requires no tape or glue. Probably way more complicated than the method Rick is using.
Jan

Here is a link that might be useful: no-tape seed envelope template

Jan,

I tried the envelope and then googled origami envelope, I got the following.
Both will work well I do believe.

Pauline

Here is a link that might be useful: envelope

Well- I use rectangles of wax paper folded in half with the back a little longer than the front. I then fold back each side to the back, close to the edge, and fold the side again. I try to keep all folds as sharp as possible as that adds to the strength of the envelope. It is now ready to be filled- if you apply a little pressure to the sides- it should pop open to fill easily- or to be used as a scoop. When it is filled- fold the back "flap" twords you- over the top- and then fold close to the edge again- Now you can use the Sharpie to write on the envelope! This is a very affordable- yet time consuming way for me to process seeds to share and store.
Hey there Rick- If the defination of cold stratification specificly mentions a planting medium with-in a seperate container- than you are correct that keeping moist seeds in breathable wax paper envelopes does not qualify to be called "cold stratification" but believe me- it works the same way- even better in my book! The wax paper holds moisture in it's fibers- they open slightly and become softand act like sterile medium around the seeds- the air exchange between the fibers is self evident as the envelopes must be "watered" occasoinaly and monitered for dryness- the seeds swell and will germinate too, even in the fridge, if one is not observent. The benifits of this cold strat is yes, you can see what is happening, when the seed is swelling and ready to plant in the medium and put under lights- 2) A very reduced chance of molds or fungus or what ever- espicially if you use well cleaned seed- 3) They take up so little space in the fridge! 4) Germination rates are noticeably higher- at least in my experience of side by side seed starting medium filled pots and wax paper envelope- of monkshood- and anemone sylvestris.
If you still need to add medium to your envelopes while chilling - go right ahead- I recieved a few seeds in mid strat from other seed swappers in mini plastic ziplocks with the tiniest amount of vermiculite in them - which I opened and kept cold for another 4 weeks-
I may have the correct word or defination wrong- but this is a great improvement for the cold, moist pre-treatment needed by some seeds than pots o dirt in my fridge- in my book-

Julie

Well there ya go, Julie. I couldn't see how a drop of water could last any significant amount of time before it evaporates, and hadn't really thought of the absorbtion/water releasing properties of wax paper before. It could be viable, provided as you say, moisture is monitored. Perennial seed stratification is rather an untouched world for me, and I have always just done it as I do woody plants, which usually need 2-4 months stratification. I don't put whole pots in the fridge. Bags are usually 1 part seed to 3-5 parts medium. Of course, few perennial have such an extended time requirement, and your method is most viable.

As far as seeds you received in mid stratification with the "tiniest amount of vermiculite": if you mean stratification in a lose sense (i.e. cold), than I conceed. But if the word's real meaning is meant (i.e. cold/damp treatment), this I question. Unless that moisture is in contact with the seed coat (like your moist wax paper would insure), I do not see the relevance. Should there be enough moisture to condense in the fridge to make contact (but not so much as to cause other problems), that would be a possibility too. Still, for true stratification, an in contact medium is the sure way.

It has been proven over and over again that a cold or cold/damp treatment often speeds or encourages faster, uniform germination in seeds not requiring such pretreatments. while most monkshood and anemone belong to this group, I do not doubt your findings. On the contrary, Bravo! And indeed a method I will have to toy with too!

Rick