skip to main content

Japanese Maples - two years with very few leaves

17 years ago

I live in a very temperate Australian climate (in Tasmania) and have two Japanese Maples on the southern side of the house. They are both well established (one is 15 feet tall, the other about 8 feet tall and 10 feet wide). When we moved in here in summer three years ago, the trees were in full flush.

The following spring some possums fed on the new growth and broke lots of the branches in the process, but overall the trees still had plents of branches left.

But since then, we get lots and lots of early leaf budding in spring with an early flush of very small leaves that for the past two years have subsequently almost disappeared, leaving just a very few, stunted leaves here and there on the trees. The odd branch is completely covered with quality growth, but the rest looks terrible! There is also notable dying back in the top fifth of a number of the very small and thin branches.

Each of the past two years we've had early, warm winds during the leaf growth phase which might explain the initial leaf loss ... but not the fact that there's been no follow-up. We haven't made any changes to the soil and the fact that they're well established indicates that they grew here successfully many years before we arrived.

Have I just been unlucky to cop warm, windy weather too early in the growth phase and is there anything I can do to help them through a leafless summer and prepare them for next year?

Any advice much appreciated.

Cheers

Greg Johannes

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (5)

conifers
17 years ago
Early Spring as the trees are dormant but when you notice that plant life is beginning to take its course, i.e. bulbs are up - feed the trees with a nitrogen-based fertilizer, preferably a pelletized fert. Organic or in-organic or a combo of both.

That should help significantly.

Come early Fall each year, feed the trees with a phosporous fert to promote root stimulation and root growth.

Do not ever fertilize the trees with nitrogen after the first intial Spring fertilization.

It may take a few years, but that's the only thing I can think of that may be of help.

Dax
gregj23
Original Author
17 years ago
Thanks Dax - I'll try it!
Related Discussions
Japanese maple was 3/4 skirted 2 years ago. Can I still graft?
Q
Comments (5)
Unfortunately, I doubt many will see your post in this obscure photo sub-forum. Also, I am a little uncertain about some wording in your post, but I think I understand the general idea. Trees can often cover over their wounds if they are growing vigorously and are in good health. You mentioned that your tree has been "pruned to be very sparse". That sounds like you are making it much harder for the tree to successfully recover. Starving the tree of food by limiting it's foliage and forcing it to overcome pruning wounds would certainly present obstacles to the tree's recovery. It is unlikely that removing a section of trunk would be the way to go. A bridge graft might help, but is probably not worth the trouble. Again, what you need to do is to increase the tree's vigor, and the best way to do that might be to leave it alone for a while! And, yes, the plaster cast is a crazy (bad) idea.
...See More
Two Japanese Maple Rootings Not Growing
Q
Comments (2)
The usual term is cuttings rather than rootings, you should find much more searching with the customary word. With cuttings of deciduous trees and shrubs it is often necessary to follow a comparatively strict procedure in order to get them to both form roots and then grow away again the following spring. If the tips of the rooted cuttings do not have time to flush a new stem growth, form overwintering terminal bud the cuttings may fail to continue growing the following spring - despite having had roots and remained alive up to that point. To overcome this more difficult kinds are taken as early as possible in the growing season, put under mist to keep them from shriveling before the roots form. But if you are getting some new top growth from at least the one cutting this may not be your problem - at least with the one cutting. If it did not form very many roots there may not be enough of a root system yet to support a full top growth. Or there could be some other problem or limitation present, it sounds like it may have died back a bit. Yes: amending of individual planting holes with organic material when setting out long-term plants like trees and shrubs is counterproductive, due to how it affects movement of water into and out of the amended planting hole.
...See More
Looking for a Japanese maple that has red leaves all year round
Q
Comments (17)
@Bayarea_girl z9ca I have a JM on my front yard that's upright and stands at about 15ft plus tall. The leaves on my JM don't turn green and stay red all year round. Even if it's extremely hot abd sunny in the Summer it just turns into a darker red like more of a purple/wine coloured shade of red instead of it "Bronzing out" like @gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9) said. I'm not sure what type of JM i have but through the seasons i know my JM turns into a really super bright almost neon red in the Spring, then during the Summer it turns into a purplish/wine coloured red, in the Autumn/Fall it changes to a brighter blood red color until the Winter time when it turns into a darker burgundy colored red four like a week then all the leaves fall off.
...See More
Issue with Japanese Maple Leaves
Q
Comments (1)
It's the middle of September! And after what has been a challenging summer for much of the east coast, it's not at all surprising that some leaves are looking a little beat up and tired!! There is nothing seriously wrong with your tree and nothing to treat for. Maples of all types are prone to various, often weather-related, fungal leaf spots and JM's often have very sensitive foliage that will show spotting or damage from heavy rain, hail, irregular water or irrigation and even wind damage. It is just aesthetic, nothing at all particularly harmful. Your tree is fine........don't stress out :-)
...See More
amazingme
17 years ago
I can't believe I came across this. I have the same problem with a couple of dwarf trees. I will try the advise Dax gave.
I'd like to know one other thing that maybe you would know also, Dax. I want to move one of them. I'm in NorthCentral Alabama, US. I don't know when to move it.
What do you think?
gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
17 years ago
I wouldn't fertilize until any pathogenic causes have been ruled out. There are a number of soil-borne disease pathogens which Japanese maples are prone to that can produce symptoms such as you describe. They tend to be present in most soils and can remain dormant or inactive until conditions present themselves for their spread. Any stresses, such as unusual weather, drought, wounding or root damage, excessive or improper fertilization, even excessive cultivation in the root zone can provide conditions that encourage their development. And fertilizing a tree that is diseased usually only helps to spread the disease faster.

I'd suggest taking a representative sample from the tree to a horticultural service (here it would be the county extension office) or a good garden center with the ability to diagnose plant problems to determine the exact cause. They should also be able to recommend a treatment, although with some diseases, the problem tends to be permanent and not treatable and the tree will eventually die.

amazingme, the best time to transplant is when the tree is still dormant and before new growth starts to be come apparent. February or March should be an appropriate time in your location.
amazingme
17 years ago
Thanks, GardenGal. I appreciate your advise and will plan to move it then.

Related Stories

GARDENING GUIDES 12 Japanese Maples for a Sunny Garden

By Jay Sifford Garden Design

The right maple in the right place shines in hot summer sun

TREES Great Design Plant: Coral Bark Japanese Maple, a Winter Standout

By Paintbox Garden

Go for garden gusto during the chilly season with the fiery red stems of this unusual Japanese maple

TREES 11 Japanese Maples for Breathtaking Color and Form

By Jay Sifford Garden Design

With such a wide range to choose from, there’s a beautiful Japanese maple to suit almost any setting

GARDENING GUIDES 13 Japanese Maples for Shade

By Jay Sifford Garden Design

A surprising variety of these understory trees is waiting to make a statement in your shade garden

GARDENING AND LANDSCAPING Great Design Tree: Japanese Maple

By Annie Thornton

Lacy form and fiery fall color make Japanese maple a welcome tree for garden or patio

MOST POPULAR A Few Words on the Power of Simplicity

By Eric Reinholdt, Architect

An architect considers a pared-down approach to modern home design

FEEL-GOOD HOME Embrace a Few Beautifully Weathered Surfaces for a Happy, Durable Home

By Janell Beals - House of Fifty

You don’t need to worry so much about scuff marks and dings when you accept the character and beauty of wear

APARTMENTS Houzz Tour: Modern Japanese Penthouse Atop a Designer’s Office

By Becky Harris

Vintage obis, petrified wood, Samurai armbands and antique fans are just a few of the materials that warm this California apartment

FALL GARDENING 5 Ways to Put Fall Leaves to Work in Your Garden

By Therese Ciesinski

Improve your soil and yard the organic way with a valuable garden booster that grows on trees

ARCHITECTURE States of Style: Alabama’s Icons Leave Their Mark

By Bryan Anthony

In the first of a new series, discover the natural beauty, the architectural icons and some of our favorite homes deep in the heart of Dixie

Sponsored

Peabody Landscape Group

8 Reviews

Franklin County's Reliable Landscape Design & Contracting

More Discussions

Usugumo HTF : Hard to Find

2

Acer First Flame

3

Nursery Container Mediums - Sand ?

0

Scion Height When Grafting

0