skip to main content

Recommend a zone 5 Jap. Maple....maybe EMPEROR I?

14 years ago

Anyone able to suggest a small scale Jap. maple that is zone 5 hardy?

From what I can tell EMPEROR I seems to be a good cultivar.

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (7)

gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
14 years ago
It is a fine choice for a zone 5 garden but I'd not exactly call 'Emperor I' a "small scale" J. maple. It will eventualy attain the same mature size as 'Bloodgood', which generally is considered one of the larger (and faster) growing JM's. If you are looking for something similar but on the smaller size, get a 'Fireglow'. Or 'Shaina'.
whaas_5a
Original Author
14 years ago
Thanks I'll try to hunt those down...I have very little knowledge on the Jap. malples so I want to make sure I select a superior cultivar.

Emperor I is listed in my area as 12'-20'...I'd expect 12-15' in a heavier soil.

If I want to contain the Emperor I to 10'-12', would that be as issue? Or am I just better off seeking the other cultivars you listed?
Related Discussions
Is this how to plant a Jap. maple...really?
Q
Comments (12)
Amending the soil in any way is old "wisdom". All current research tells us that using native soil -- and choosing plants that adapt to our native soil -- is the answer to long-term success. Plantings of Japanese maples throughout California also show that it's not the "pH" that makes a difference. Japanese maples do fine in high pH (alkaline) soils. It's our hard water (MUCH harder in our area and south than up north where lucky Al lives) that causes the yellowing and outright "burn" of maple foliage (not sun, nor wind, btw). Yes, hard water is alkaline but it's the mineral content that is the issue, not the alkalinity. Al points out that drainage is key, which goes to our hard water. Poorly drained soils accumulate the salts. Just as does watering frequently and shallowly (as almost all gardeners do with everything) does. Amending only compounds a poor drainage issue. Engineering a drainage fix is the only answer. And Al is very right about planting too deeply; seen it too many times. But "16 square feet"?! Also, the native mineral component of the soil pretty much dictates what the pH is going to be. Organic matter has little and only short-term impact. But a good mulch on Japanese maples helps maintain soil moisture and keeps the soil cooler, both JM needs. Add a little shade and you've got it (although 'Sango-kaku' colors best in sun). If you still have some tip-burn from hard water, leach the soil monthly duing the summer months with REALLY DEEP waterings. Japanese maples in containers show tip burn from our hard water even more. Same solution: water deeply. Finally, B1 is a myth and a scam. It does nothing. Joe
...See More
Some experments in lesser known JM's for zone 5
Q
Comments (38)
Tom, Thanks for mentioning this. Winter protection from cold winter winds is definitely a must for most but especially us. We discussed this issue above in a few posts, but my backyard where most of my garden (and Japanese Maples)is located is protected on all sides. Two sides, north and east, by a wood fence that borders my yard and two neighbors, and the western side by my house. The southern side has a chain link fence partially protected by bamboo fencing, beyond which is a large neighboring yard. Even the side that is more exposed has houses beyond the yard breaking up wind from that direction. My front yard facing north gets most wind between my house and a neighbor's, but the north winds get partially blocked by the neighbor's house. Here, I have a few Maples, two of which are most exposed to wind--one an AP 'palmatum' (parent cultivar) has done fine for two years. The other a Acer Shirasawanum 'Palmatifolium' I put in this year. I will probably put wire around this and burlap or other protection as suggested. Other palmatums: A Red Dragon, Hogyoku and Bloodgood have done fine for two years and a Kandy Kitchen over the winter. These are in a bed that get some north winds exposure in the front. Back to my backyard though I have a micro-climate created by the enclosure of the fences. I plan to extend and improve my bamboo fencing. And in fact, when I go to the best Japanese gardens typically they have all the most delicate and finer plants located in an enclosure of some sort here (at Botanic Gardens). Actually making a garden enclosure is not just for protection but looks nicer as well. I also have two Norway Spruces anchoring the corner of my backyard garden which provide a windbreak. I also have other conifers (Pines) in the garden which provide some protection from wind too. A larger Norway Maple away from the main area provides some afternoon shade for summer heat, but I have had to prune this to allow more sunlight to get through. My pleasant surprise is that these cultivars are much hardier than they have been given credit for, but we here in northern Illinois have not seen drastic winter temps. I haven't seen temps in the -25 degree range for over fifteen years. Since I've been collecting (very short time) the winters have reached -15, but this is only for one or two days. Long term cold fronts typically are in the zero degree, plus or minus 5 degrees range. Wind chill can be much colder. But it is the temperature below ground that is key. In fact, snow as tough as it is to deal with in some ways actually protects the roots from the cold and wind. It is a natural insulator. The real killer is actually late frosts after a warming trend as many here on the forum can attest to--the killer Spring frost of 2007 that drastically affected the Southern states and southern Illinois though not here because the warming trend here was brief enough that it did not cause the trees to leaf. These type of events can quickly take the life of our trees as I found out this year with a small Bloodgood. Late frost can happen in any zone, but affect areas that are more prone to drastic temperature swings in the Spring. More later, Ken
...See More
Growing Blueberry Hill, Bonica etc. in zone 5A
Q
Comments (20)
Shacute and Sam: Glad that Sam mentioned compost .. that provides soluble phosphorus for more branching on new roses. I made the same mistake of putting too much nitrogen when I first bought own-root roses .. and got only one bloom the 1st year !! Sulfate of potash is best ordered on Amazon, the ones at the store (Espoma Potash) is muriate of potash, or potassium-chloride, salt-index of 112.6 ... that's the salty stuff we use to de-ice sidewalk in zone 5a. Quick way to get the potassium & phosphorus you need is to grab a bag of Tomato-Tone NPK 4--6-6, or any organic fertilizer with big number 6 or above for the last digit (potassium). Tomato Tone is sold out fast at Walmart, it's 5 lbs. for $10. Since potassium mobility is a 3, somewhat slow, it's best to put that in the planting hole. If your hole is 18 feet by 12 feet, it's safe to use 2 cups of tomato tone, plus 1 cup gypsum (calcium sulfate) in the planting hole. Roots need both calcium and potassium, plus a bit of phosphorus to get big & solid. The EarthGro humus & compost sold cheap at Walmart for $1.29 per 40 lb. bag .. that's good for the planting hole .. will provide phosphorus for years.
...See More
JM orangeola placement zone 5B/6
Q
Comments (24)
"Full sun is the way to go!" That may be the consensus here for whatever reason but full sun is NOT the way to go and virtually every single Japanese maple specialty nursery and JM authority will clearly indicate that afternoon shade or partial shade is a preferred location for any JM variety. Here are just a few excerpts from the websites or text articles of some of the most well recognized growers of JM's....... Provide morning sun and afternoon shade - Mendocino Maples Morning sun and afternoon shade are ideal for Japanese Maple trees. Filtered sunlight is best. - Southern Living Japanese maples will grow best in a sheltered position. Red and purple leaved cultivars need some sun to develop fully their dark hues. Variegated Japanese maples need partial shade to prevent the afternoon sun from scorching the foliage. Green-leaved forms tolerate full sun, but are best in dappled shade as very bright conditions can sometimes cause scorch. - Royal Horticultural Society I will make this straight-forward statement here, that you will also see on many Japanese maple related sites. The best possible setting for any Japanese maple is: MORNING SUN AND AFTERNOON SHADE or ALL DAY LIGHTLY FILTERED SUN. Even plants that do okay in full sun or a lot of shade will benefit from this placement no matter where you live (the only exception are a very few extremely sun sensitive cultivars that should be in deep shade). They will generally have less leaf burn and better color throughout the growing season in this preferred placement. - Davidsan's Maples The Japanese refer to the maples as the ‘little girls’ and the pines as the ’fathers’. In their native habitat the pines provide protection from the intense sun and wind. Though most of the trees will do well in full sun in a mild climate where temperatures are seldom above 90 degrees Fahrenheit, the heavily variegated trees will typically burn even in milder climates if exposed to afternoon sun. All of the trees will grow well in partial shade or the dappled light in the under story of a large tree. - Essence of the Tree Even though 'Glowing Embers', 'Trompenburg', 'Emperor I', and many of our other cultivars do well in full sun, it is recommended that you plant your maple in a place that does not receive direct sunlight after 12 noon, especially if your summers have temperatures reaching above 100 degrees more than five days each year. - Pacific Coast Maples Ideally, provide dappled shade; if too much the plants grow slowly and the purple types become more green; too little and they may literally cook in the summer sun. - Michael Dirr Protection from late afternoon and evening sun will reduce leaf scorch, sun scald and reduce the amount of watering necessary to keep the soil cool and moist. Also plants under stress are more likely to develop diseases and insect damage. Having a property with large existing shade trees to plant your Japanese maple under makes a perfect environment. Such filtered or dappled shade is ideal for Japanese maples. - Japanese Maples online Of course you can plant your tree wherever you like but making the assumption that full sun is the best or preferred siting is far from accurate and could lead to some unfortunate consequences depending on where you are located. That's one of the problems with these online forums......you can get a lot of anecdotal advice from hobby gardeners that really may have little to no practical application.
...See More
whaas_5a
Original Author
14 years ago
Here are a few others I found. I would go for a green leaf jap. maple as well.

What I really want is a true zone 5 hardiness or better and then if it exists...a reliable long lasting vibrant orange fall color. I have not seen that fall color before in my area except for a Sugar Maple.

ACER PALMATUM 'HOGYOKU'

ACER PALMATUM 'SISTER ACER PALMATUM 'TSUMA GAKI' ('RED NAIL')

ACER PALMATUM 'SISTER GHOST'

ACER SHIRASAWANUM 'AUTUMN MOON'
gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
14 years ago
Acer japonicum and shirasawanum are generally considered more cold hardy but most Acer palmatums should be hardy to zone 5. I myself would steer away from the 'Ghost' series......these are reticulated forms and tend to be a bit more delicate than other choices. One of the best JM's for fall color is the straight species, which also has the benefit of superior cold hardiness as well. But this can get to be a largish tree in time.......quite a lot of time, all things considered :-) And I would NEVER recommend pruning a JM to control or limit size.

And it is not considered correct/polite to refer to these as "jap" maples. It is offensive to many. Please either spell out the word fully or abbreviate by initials.

Here is a link that might be useful: Asian maples for colder climates
whaas_5a
Original Author
14 years ago
Why would you not recommend pruning a JM to contain its size? Bonasi is just the art of doing so.

I came across a Korean Maple locally, but as you stated many of these get to be quite large over time. The horticulturist I spoke to said it could get about 20' in our area, but not in our lifetime...slightly naive, but true.

"And it is not considered correct/polite to refer to these as "jap" maples."

Well I don't want to hurt the trees feelings! lol. I get your point though.
gardener365
14 years ago
I'm in Illinois. Successful plantings of:
Acer palmatum 'Seiryu'
Acer japonicum 'Ogurayama'
Acer japonicum 'Acontifolium'

The species japonicum does best for winter-hardiness.
You should be very good with species:
sieboldianum
pseudosieboldianum

Others for thought:
Acer shirasawanum 'Autumn Moon' -- quite a hardy tree.
Acer palmatum 'Skeeter's Broom'
All japonicums but not all shirasawanum's.
Acer palmatum 'Orido Nishiki'

Dax
gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
14 years ago
Bonsai is an entirely different set of circumstances and cannot be compared to growing trees in the ground. FWIW, I do not recommend pruning ANY tree solely to maintain a set size, nor do most certified arborists - for one, pruning encourages growth so once started it becomes an increasingly high maintenance chore. It is also well down on the list - if included at all - for reasons to prune. Excessive pruning, as in to control size, generally results in profuse sprouting (epicormic) along the remaining or denuded branches. This is an attempt to restore lost foliage. For this to occur, the tree must shift resources from other essential functions, e.g., root growth and defense, etc., to repair "damage" and restore "balance". This eventually weakens the tree and results in energy depletition, dieback, increased susceptibility to secondary pests, or decline. Not to mention that unless one knows what they are doing, too frequent pruning of Japanese maples destroys the growth habit that provides much of their character and generally results in ball-shaped mess.

It is a far better idea to pick a tree that can be allowed to grow to the desired size without restriction or limitation and leave pruning chores to those reasons most often stated - removing damaged, diseased or dead wood, thinning or lifting the canopy and enhancing growth habit.

Related Stories

GARDENING GUIDES 12 Japanese Maples for a Sunny Garden

By Jay Sifford Garden Design

The right maple in the right place shines in hot summer sun

TREES 11 Japanese Maples for Breathtaking Color and Form

By Jay Sifford Garden Design

With such a wide range to choose from, there’s a beautiful Japanese maple to suit almost any setting

GARDENING GUIDES 13 Japanese Maples for Shade

By Jay Sifford Garden Design

A surprising variety of these understory trees is waiting to make a statement in your shade garden

MOST POPULAR Kitchen Evolution: Work Zones Replace the Triangle

By Jennifer Ott Design

Want maximum efficiency in your kitchen? Consider forgoing the old-fashioned triangle in favor of task-specific zones

FLOORS 5 Benefits to Concrete Floors for Everyday Living

By Natalie Myers

Get low-maintenance home flooring that creates high impact and works with home styles from traditional to modern

EARTH DAY 5 Ideas for a More Earth-Friendly Garden

By Benjamin Vogt / Monarch Gardens

Consider increasing the size of garden beds, filtering rainwater and using plants to reduce energy use

FALL AND THANKSGIVING 5 Container Gardens for Fall, the Holidays and Beyond

Make planting easy with a single container, year-round plants and a sprinkling of simple seasonal accents

PLANTING IDEAS These Aren’t Your Grandparents’ Junipers

By Jay Sifford Garden Design

Dislike junipers? Maybe it’s time to discover new varieties and new uses for this garden workhorse

KITCHEN DESIGN Key Measurements to Help You Design Your Kitchen

By Steven Corley Randel, Architect

Get the ideal kitchen setup by understanding spatial relationships, building dimensions and work zones

GARDENING GUIDES New Ways to Think About All That Mulch in the Garden

By Benjamin Vogt / Monarch Gardens

Before you go making a mountain out of a mulch hill, learn the facts about what your plants and soil really want

Sponsored

More Discussions

Usugumo HTF : Hard to Find

2

Acer First Flame

3

Nursery Container Mediums - Sand ?

0

Scion Height When Grafting

0