behind the dieback do you see any buds swelling? At some point we hope the dieback will be contained and the tree will push new buds and chutes. It is possible that the branches will dieback entirely.

There is not much you can do for this tree right now, but I would immediately prune back the dead and dying wood (all the black and bronze wood). Make the cuts a 1/2" to the trunk side of where the good wood meets the dying wood. you can also prune back to a healthy side branch or twig. If you are uncertain about what might be dead, you can wait, but in the summer heat it will quickly become brittle.

How big was it when you planted it? How long has it been in the ground? You tree is not suffering from anthracnose. If you planted a large enough tree with a good sized rootball, we may be able to fertilize it to try and get some regrowth before fall. How are the roots? Do you think it might be too wet? Have you fertilized since planting?

MJH

Hi , thanks for responding. The tree was planted July 3rd and was 5 feet tall . One month following this the very hot weather moved in and I lost the foliage . I believe I allowed it to go too dry .
I did not fertilize at all because I figured a stressed tree does not need fertilizer.
I am going to look into seaweed fert that was suggested on this forum .
I will prune out the dead growth and hope for the best.
I just hope it is not virticulum wilt.
Thanks again ,

I did not say it yesterday, but it looks like verticillium to me. That may only be part of it, as stress and transplant can cause die back also. I think you should get a liquid fertilizer on it in the realm of 7-6-6 or something like that but not much more nitrogen than the 7. I have been using a product by Fox Farm called Grow More and I like it so far. I have used two applications on my trees. You could combine something like that with Kelp extract or superthrive.

Keep us up to date.
MJH

Isn't verticillium fatal ? If it has this I think its a goner . Feeding it will help it survive this horid fungus?
Also how did the word Fertilizer in my 1st post turn green with the underline making it a link? I didn't put it there is this something new they are doing ?
Thanks
Laura

There are a couple different types of verticillium. One is a faster or agressive form that will kill plants, expecially very small ones, in a very short period of time. They type you are dealing with is the commonly thought of form that acts more slowly, when the plant is under stress or the effects are seen in hot summer months. Using a moderate and regular fertilizer program including 0-10-10 in the fall and chosing growing-season fertilizers with calcium will help sustain the tree. When you see dieback, just prune it back.

The wilt is a gift the usually comes with the tree. Either the rootstock or scion or both are infected to start out. There is not much you can do but keep it as happy as possible without killing it with love. The other option is to return if it came with a guarantee. At this point I would return it if you could as it will likely be disfigured to some degree.

MJH

You can't diagnose verticillium from looking at the exterior of twigs.

I vote for lack of water. It fits!

Verticillium can be reasonably diagnosed by looking at the twigs, branches, limbs, etc. When we know a tree such as this one has had access to regular moisture. In many situations the calliper of affected branches in maples is too small to see the signs of VW by cutting into the twig. I suspect that no matter how much this plant was watered, the dieback would have been the same given the conditions it was exposed to.
Maybe it is equally likely that you associate the frequent signs of VW in maples, especially in the NW, as lack of water when it is nothing of the sort.

As you will notice in my initial response, by my saying it looks like verticillium, I am not giving a definate answer and I also offer the posibility that transplant shock or root damage could be the complete or partial cause. With a tree in this state, it could not hurt to treat the tree as if it had verticillium to try to nurse it back to health.

We often blame VW and other pathogens for problems with our maples that we ourselves cause. But given the coloration, time of year and situation under which the above tree has suffered, I don't think the owner is at fault-and too little water would not cuase this degree of damage under the eye of a watchful gardener as I know Laura has been.

It maybe be true you can't diagnose VW by looking at a tree, but you can factor in some other variables and make an educated guess. Either way, the remedy is the same. The wait and see method is not the one I would use with this tree--it needs some attention to force growth.

MJH

Hi Everyone , I cut out the black and brown branches and it looks to me to be verticillim . Unless there is another disease that causes the interior branch to be discolored like V. W.

In regards to watering this tree I can honestly say I never let it dry out severely . Not even close . It was more along the lines of the moist end of approaching dry.
I am not experienced with outdoor trees , shrubs and I'm still learning but I have worked extensively with indoor tropical trees/plants and as a result I have some clue with watering practices although differences between the 2 can be major.
I checked the tree today and so far it is stable but I guess time will tell.
I want to thank everyone for responding with advice and teaching me . These forums are invaluable.
Laura

Hi,

Although I can't see the whole tree it seems that it has a fighting chance. Most of the tertiary branches have died back to the main branches, but the main branches are fine so far as I can see. As long and the owner takes care of it properly with good regular waterings and maybe some kelp we'll start to see buds forming on the main branches. They may be nothing to get excited about and put out a couple tiny leaves or they may surprise us and put out a new branch.

I don't think it's VW, though it could be. I think it was stressed in some major way...either from the transplanting or water, either too much or not enough. Were there signs of dead branches before seventowers bought it? Or, did most of this branch die back happen after it was bought? What was the watering regimen like? Fertilizer regimen?

Diagnosing this type of problem can be difficult as you not only have to diagnose the tree, but the owner as well. When some one tells me they water well and then I delve further I find out they are overwatering or underwatering sometimes. Sometimes it's the same with fertilizers. I've had one gentleman tell me he was watering and feeding his plant well and it still died. Turned out he was watering and feeding Miracle Grow at full strength *every* day!

So, we have to find out what the watering regimen is like and in what type of weather. Is the tree planted in the ground or potted. What does the growing medium consist of? Are there lot's of dissolved salts in the local water? What is the fertilizer regimen and what kind of fertilizer? Could there be other types of pathogens or pest in the soil that could be attacking the roots?

Layne

Hi Layne nice to see you !
Watering was done amply. I didn't let this tree dry out nor did I keep it soaking.(read previous post of mine for more on watering) As far as fertilizer I gave it none due to it being just planted and not knowing you could feed it certin things. My thoughts for stressed plants were always don't feed stressed plants. But I am learning that certin things can be given to outdoor trees which will aid in stress reduction.
The tree was in a container and I gently teased the outer roots freeing them up for easy transition to new soil. The tree was not pot bound by any means.
Soil consists of 40 percent topsoil , 10 percent sharp sand , mixed in with 50 percent of existing soil which was of medium quality silt existing at a slightly higher value than ideal . This mixture was existing from the year before for plants (Astillbe) that were moved since to accomadate this tree .
When the tree was planted I mixed in some compost which is made from shreaded leaves , grass clippings that had stewed for a year under my pine trees.
I dug the hole very wide but not exsessively deep and the tree has not sunk and is holding at the same soil line as was in the pot.
The tree was fine until 30 days give or take after being planted.

I think one very big mistake I made was planting it in July and my luck has it that this year we had a very hot , high temp weather with some extreme humidity levels as well.
Layne I realize water practices can be misconstrued by many who are not familiar with watering plants . I have worked with indoor trees/plants for a long time and have come across many misconceptions about how a plant should be watered.
In all honesty this tree has not dried to extreme nor been wet to extreme I was very careful.
The first symptom to show was a upwards leaf curling of some old growth with same dappling into the newer growth along the expanse of the whole tree. As the days progressed all the leaves exhibited this upwards curling . Their color being the same green red before the curl with exception of tips being browned.
Most of the leaves came off easily when lightly brushed, While the newer growth seemed to stay on the tree and turn completely brown still curly but not dry also clinging to the tree and giving resistance when I went to remove them. I noticed then when removing them the branch tips from which they were growing were black as well as segments of the other branches being brown/black at this point.
Also I will add that a dianthus growing in same bed looked to be having issues and indeed it was rotted. I removed this but I will also add that there was another dianthus (same type) that was in healthy condition but I removed it anyway. I must confess in moving the tree further out from my house I was very careful with the Tree's rootball but very reckless with the 2 dainthus , and 2 japonica's rootballs that were planted on the outskirts. So it doesn't suprise me that one of the dianthus bit the dust. All soil was removed around where dianthus was even further out to make sure and replaced with fresh topsoil.

I have since pruned out the disolored branches. Some of them being thicker branches which gave me a decent view of the cambium, it looked to me like V.W. from the photo's I had seen when investigating.
Branches should be green when clipped and what I saw was a dark smudge along that green cutting through working inwards towards the middle.
Is this what VW appears as ?
I think I have butchered it with the pruning I had to do. Below you will find pictures of what it looks like now . (what this tree will look like if it survives this problem coupled with my prune job is beyond me) Also I have given it a very light feeding with added Hydrogen peroxide 3 percent 2 tbls to gallon. I have yet to get the kelp.
All that being said what does everyone think?
Please let me know if my pruning has ruined this tree forever. I apprecaite anything you can share.
Here are 3 photos of how the tree looks now . Just wanted to add the photos have the tree appear really close to the house as well as growing toward the house but this is not the case .
{{gwi:1047528}}

{{gwi:1047529}}

{{gwi:1047530}}
Laura

Hi,

After seeing the photos you posted we now know your tree lost a lot of branches. It suffered some major stress.

As far as your watering is concerned having the soil on the dry side of moist when the tree may have needed that watering could have caused some stress, but I don't think it would've led to this. However, that on top of having been transplanted might cause this type of damage.

I remember once my dad dug up and potted an Ohia Lehua tree which are incredibly fragile in terms of handling it for transplanting. It looked fine for a week or so then its vigor just collapsed and the tree died.

With regard to that branch you cut that was brown inside, was it showing signs of dying when you cut it? Meaning was it already browning? If you cut an infected branch and look at its cross section you'll see a dark ring. And when you split it in half you'll see streaks running the length of the branch. The dying tips do not show this but are affected because the water and nutrients can not get up the main branch to the tips. The dark ring you may see is the VW blocking this layer.

Here's a good site on VW:

http://www.treehelp.com/trees/maple/maple-diseases-maple-verticillium-wilt.asp

http://www.treehelp.com/trees/trees-diseases-verticillium-wilt.asp

This one has a good(?) picture of VW:

http://www.oznet.ksu.edu/dp_hfrr/extensn/problems/vertic.htm

My tomato plant wasn't looking so good when I cut back some branches to redirect nutrients and water to more healthy looking branches. When I looked at the cross section I saw the telltale dark ring. Rather than risk it infecting my maples I threw it away.

Hope this helps,

Layne

In order to tentatively diagnose verticillium by cutting through a branch, that branch must be a half inch or larger diameter.

Then too you wrote: "The tree was fine until 30 days give or take after being planted."

Frankly, that sort of stress so early on spells water stress.

Next as to the cause of the stress, let me recount some of the ways:
-- a damaged root system
-- a vascular disease
-- a root system that isn't yet sufficient size to keep up with the environmental demands, as in a hot spell, and/or very low humidity, and/or excess sunlight.
-- irrigation that doesn't supply the original rootball with adequate water.
-- irrigation that waterlogs the soil and/or rootball.

Hi,

I forgot to mention that you said you used 40% topsoil, 10% sharp sand, and 50% old soil consisting of medium silt. Just wondering that maybe the fresh topsoil might've wicked away water from the roots.

This can happen when you plant the roots that still have the old soil into new surrounding soil if they're different mediums...especially silt which is wet already and water retentive with the drier topsoil that probably has a lot of moisture soaking organic matter. Even when you water the entire area of the rootball the topsoil will dry out faster wicking away water from the silt covered roots.

The best thing would've been to gently wash off as much of the old silt soil around the roots. The more I think about it the more I think it's a combination of factors that led to the trees condition. All stress related. Planted in July; different medium around the roots from the other soil around the rootball; teasing the roots (which will lead to some damage).

Often times when bonsai people tranplant their trees they put A LOT of stress on it by teasing the roots with a root rake and pruning the roots. One of the things they do to counteract the effects of this stress is to prune off some the branches (usually an amount equal to the amount of roots pruned). This way the tree doesn't have to feed as many branches and leaves on a reduced root mass. Also, after transplanting the tree is kept the shade for a time before being put back out in the sun. This reduces the tree's water needs. Keep these ideas in mind the next time you plant a tree.

I still think the tree can make it. It's not a goner yet. But keep in mind that it may not put out any new growth till next spring.

Keep us posted,

Layne

Laura,

How is the tree doing???

Layne

Hey Layne , Not very well , I am so bummed. I really don't believe it was all my fault though. I am going to see what the nurseries policy is regarding trees that don't make it.
More stems have turned black and I don't think it is going to make it .
Thanks,
Laura

Hi Laura,

Don't beat yourself about this. It's very possible, like Michael said, it's VW especially if you've seen the symptoms shown on the websites I provided.

I have a Butterfly that I suspect might have VW. If there ever is a cure for it the inventor's going to make a killing. I've read that someone is actively doing research in this regard. Hopefully they'll come up with a cure or prevention.

Best,

Layne

Pseudomonas blackens stems. Japanese maples are quite susceptible.

That said, I still vote for lack of water to the original rootball.

I would consider this Jean but a hydrangea is in the same bed and I would think the Viridis does not exceed in water needs that of the hydrangea and the hydra wilted slightly only once.
The soil this tree was grown in was a good dark grade with sandy properties and the roots while formed to the shape of container were not overly so . It was very easy to tease out a good amount of roots so that it could spread.
The soil I placed it in was also of a sandy clay loam type as well.
I was in the bed today to run soil tests and paid special attention to the soil composition.
I noticed that the tree is rooting in rather nicely but the top looks disasterous . The remaining stems turned brown burgandy but seem at this point to be alive because they are pliable and bend without breakage.

I am certain that I Deffinitely had a hand in how miserable this tree may be but I am also certain it was not all my doing.

Are these trees super temperamental ? I know there are many trees shrubs plants that are such. Is this one of them?
Because really everyone I was not that far off the mark with care and yet the speed of decline was swift and drastic and I just can't imagine my slight divergence can cause this much damgage unless it is a very delicate tree.

Thanks everyone for all the help . If it makes it thru winter and grows in the spring I'll take a picture.
Laura

I have seen maples look just like that after 2 to 4 weeks of watering with high salt content well water. If your water has 500 parts per million total dissolved salts or more it will look just like that.

Laura,

I think your summary is accurate, that while you may have had a hand in this, you are not all to blame.

A healthy, high quality maple is really more like a weed than a tempermental plant. They tolerate a wide range of conditions and often recover from stress with far less trauma than we have seen here.

I don't buy the lack of water or the salt build up. Usually in these situations or when excess fertilizers have been used or in adverse soil situations, root burn and rot wil occur. If you examined the roots and they look good with new growth and expansion, suspect another pathogen or a combination. Maybe a transient root insult and pathogen problem. I thought I saw some vertcillium but another water mold or bacteria could be present, we can't be sure. The rapid effect makes me think it was in the plant when you got it. The most common type of verticillium doesn't uaually cause the rapid blackening of stems.

Lets wait until spring and see what type of growth we see.

Good Luck,
MJH

I have lost 2 Japenese Maples and look like losing a third,(it looks like the picture) I live 6oo yds from the Bristol Channel could the salt air be to blame.

gary