That's clearly a Norway Maple (Acer platanoides) Leaves of Norway Maple are broader than those of Sugar Maple and have 5-lobed leaves. Sugar maple also has 5 lobes but the 2 base lobes are much smaller than Norway Maple. There should be milky sap in petiole and leaf veins if it's a Norway Maple (probably none or not as much milky sap in dry fall leaves than green leaves).

I am not exactly sure what you are asking, but i will try to cover the possibilities. Red maple will usually grow faster then Norway maple, and will grow taller, so it should be able to stay above the norway maple and survive very well. But over time, Norway maple, on most sites (very dry sites and very wet sites may be different) Norway maple, being better able to reproduce and grow in the shade of other trees, will replace red maple. --Spruce

Thanks for the feedback everyone. After reading people's comments and talking with my wife we have decided to leave it this year and address the issue within the next two springs or falls- maybe cut it down next summer and wait to replace it. The picture I took of this tree faces north. To the south of the tree is a red maple, very young about 2" diameter. This is about 35-45 feet from the Norway. To the NE of the Norway we plan to plant a Swamp White Oak (again, 35-45 feet away) next spring. I imagine the canopy on the maple and oak will get quite big eventually (15-25 years, but still) and we don't want it to look like a giant shade blanket is cast over 1/2 of our yard. We've decided to replace the Norway with a smaller tree- perhaps an American Hornbeam. With a smaller tree in between I think that balances things out nicely, and the Hornbeam is a natural tree to the area If we keep the maple, yes, I won't have to deal with shade or root issues for 20 years or so. But I or whoever is living here will have to eventually, and that's a headache that I just don't want to deal with. Why not plan ahead. What boggles my mind is the previous owners literally planted it 7' from the corner of the home in the flower bed. What on earth were they thinking? We are also moving a crabapple tree next year from opposite end flower bed (again 7' from the house) and extending the flower bed and putting a dogwood tree in. Not sure what to do with the crabapple. I think it is a Donald Wyman, but I can't be sure. I may relocate that to the edge of my property so I can still enjoy the flowers but not have to worry about the fruit.

I agree with Tom about crabapple/cherry...or possibly plum. These are all in the same family. If you decide to go that route it will be important for you to look at the mature height/width for the particular variety you choose. Some are pretty big/wide, say 25-35 feet wide, which would be a bad fit for the location you're thinking of. If you're set on that type of tree, you might consider asking for help on the Trees forum, since many of those are non-native and less interesting to most of us on the Native Plants forum. Another possibility would be the Landscape Design forum. On either of those I think you would find people who have a lot of experience with purple-leaved Prunus/Malus cultivars of various sizes and forms. If you're looking for a suggestion for a native ornamental or shade tree, I'm sure we could offer some ideas here, especially if you let us know what zone you're in...