Sounds like you're looking for a medium-sized shrub. A couple that come to mind are Aronia melanocarpa (Glossy Black Chokeberry) and A. arbutifolia (Red Chokeberry). Glossy Black Chokeberry is a bit hardier, but Red Chokeberry is considered to be more ornamental. A. arbutifolia 'Brilliantissima' might be worth seeking out. While the fruit is very showy, birds do not seem to be at all interested in it. I've seen them listed as bird magnets, but my experience would prove otherwise. BTW, these shrubs have very nice fall color. If you want some fragrance in the garden, you could try a couple of the Viburnums, such as V. carlesi (Korean spice) and V x juddii (Judd viburnum). These are marginally hardy in z4, and z3 would really be pushing it. A bit hardier, but still fragrant is Philadelphus (Mockorange). There are several smaller cultivars such as Snowbelle, Buckley's Quill, and Boquet Blanc that might work. For something a bit different, you could try Betula pendula 'Trost Dwarf' (Trost Dwarf European White Birch), which would be in the size range you're looking for. Hardiness is not an issue, but like all Birches it prefers moist/cool soil. Basic

Japanese maple foliage is extremely sensitive and spraying it with anything other than plain water can create a phytotoxic reaction. FWIW, with the vast majority of woody plants - like your little bonsai - powdery mildew is purely a cosmetic issue and nothing that will seriously harm the tree. I agree 100% with cearbhaill - just let it be. Misting is completely unnecessary. Water as required at the base, thoroughly wetting the pot and potting medium. The tree should releaf. JM's can lose foliage for a variety of reasons and still produce a new flush of foliage. I'd keep it out of direct sun at all times until it has responded to a more normal growth patterns. And generally I would advise against any fertilizer but containerized or bonsai'd trees DO require supplemental fertilization. I'd wait until the plant has releafed and then use either a single application of slow release (like Osmocote) or a dilute liquid every 2-3 weeks.

Tom, Thanks for mentioning this. Winter protection from cold winter winds is definitely a must for most but especially us. We discussed this issue above in a few posts, but my backyard where most of my garden (and Japanese Maples)is located is protected on all sides. Two sides, north and east, by a wood fence that borders my yard and two neighbors, and the western side by my house. The southern side has a chain link fence partially protected by bamboo fencing, beyond which is a large neighboring yard. Even the side that is more exposed has houses beyond the yard breaking up wind from that direction. My front yard facing north gets most wind between my house and a neighbor's, but the north winds get partially blocked by the neighbor's house. Here, I have a few Maples, two of which are most exposed to wind--one an AP 'palmatum' (parent cultivar) has done fine for two years. The other a Acer Shirasawanum 'Palmatifolium' I put in this year. I will probably put wire around this and burlap or other protection as suggested. Other palmatums: A Red Dragon, Hogyoku and Bloodgood have done fine for two years and a Kandy Kitchen over the winter. These are in a bed that get some north winds exposure in the front. Back to my backyard though I have a micro-climate created by the enclosure of the fences. I plan to extend and improve my bamboo fencing. And in fact, when I go to the best Japanese gardens typically they have all the most delicate and finer plants located in an enclosure of some sort here (at Botanic Gardens). Actually making a garden enclosure is not just for protection but looks nicer as well. I also have two Norway Spruces anchoring the corner of my backyard garden which provide a windbreak. I also have other conifers (Pines) in the garden which provide some protection from wind too. A larger Norway Maple away from the main area provides some afternoon shade for summer heat, but I have had to prune this to allow more sunlight to get through. My pleasant surprise is that these cultivars are much hardier than they have been given credit for, but we here in northern Illinois have not seen drastic winter temps. I haven't seen temps in the -25 degree range for over fifteen years. Since I've been collecting (very short time) the winters have reached -15, but this is only for one or two days. Long term cold fronts typically are in the zero degree, plus or minus 5 degrees range. Wind chill can be much colder. But it is the temperature below ground that is key. In fact, snow as tough as it is to deal with in some ways actually protects the roots from the cold and wind. It is a natural insulator. The real killer is actually late frosts after a warming trend as many here on the forum can attest to--the killer Spring frost of 2007 that drastically affected the Southern states and southern Illinois though not here because the warming trend here was brief enough that it did not cause the trees to leaf. These type of events can quickly take the life of our trees as I found out this year with a small Bloodgood. Late frost can happen in any zone, but affect areas that are more prone to drastic temperature swings in the Spring. More later, Ken

It is normal for hydrangeas to wilt/droop in the Summer, specially if the soil is not moist enough. Their leaves loose moisture faster in the Summer than the roots can absorb. And so they wilt... especially a newly planted hydrangeas... You can give them extra water in the Summer although be careful with that as too much water can result in root rot if the roots are in wet soil for too long of a period. Not sure how old the tree is but it sounds as if it cannot absorb enough water quickly enough or is not getting enough water. Make sure your waterings get the soil moist down to a depth of 8". The others obviously have a better/larger root system and can handle the temps. Things that can help on the short term are probably not always too practical with the trees: increasing the water to Summer levels; an umbrella/chair/etc to give them some extra shade; extra water, which you are already providing; blocking the winds if it is in a windy area, etc. It is a normal problem in soils like Florida (which are sandy and therefore drain too well); 5-10cm of mulch all year long past the drip line (I assume it already has this); etc. So just let it wilt. It should recover on its own by the morning. I have some non-trees that do this in the Summer. There is little I can do as temperatures hover at 107F/42C so I just make sure the soil is evenly moist and let them wilt. If it becomes quite troublesome, perhaps consider transplanting in the Fall to get sllightly more shade but, do remember that they should handle hot temps better as they get older.