Interesting situation, to pick a spot for a new tree. Clearly there is room, but the question of where is not as easily answered as one might think - as shown by the fact, perhaps, that no one has answered! It took me a couple of days to figure out why this is hard. One reason is not knowing just what you want your relationship to be with passers-by on the road and with your neighbours across the road - how much of the house you want to leave visible, how much you want to be able to see out - for example, do you want to be able to see when the mail is being delivered, or when someone is coming up your driveway? Another is not knowing how you like the task of mowing to go. So we don't really have enough information to fully understand your preferences... you don't need to explain them to us, but you do need to articulate them to yourself to make a decision. What is important to you about the front yard, and about trees in the front yard? Another is that there are already more trees than I realized from your earlier photo and they are quite distinctly linear in arrangement - furthermore, many are already maples. So it is hard to know whether to create a new linear component in the design or start to transition from a linear to a more random arrangement. I would prefer to evolve away from the linear aspect, especially as you move away from the driveway. Planting in groves does have its risks, as BBoy has pointed out above. I went on a tour of a local arboretum a while back (Riverview) where trees were frequently planted in 3s and 5s, and the resulting groves, 100 years later, now consist of rather unevenly developed trees in that the canopies are abutting and sometimes killing each other off on the adjoining side. So the trees are uneven although the groves remain symmetrical. But that's 100 years out, and all your specimens may not be 100-year trees. If they are not, then you can actually plant with a view to tree succession already. For example, I do not like the two maples (green in your first picture, red in your later ones) that are quite symmetrically planted across the middle of the lot - I don't like their shapes, so that's personal, but I also don't like their symmetry, since they somehow don't relate to each other or the property at all. I think I would begin by disturbing their balance a little by planting new trees near them, or in front of them, and then plan to remove one of the two existing trees at a later date. Always with a view to sight lines (and mowing lines if those matter). Also, I can't remember if you said anything on the other thread about big trees in the back yard, if you want or have any growing in there. For looks alone, nothing settles a house into a property better than being backed by some tall trees. But if it is not practical to plant them back there, then I would plant them in the front, albeit a fair distance from the house. As they grow you can prune their canopies up and even if they block your view now, eventually sight-lines will re-emerge beneath them (and in winter of course). All that refers mostly to deciduous trees. Conifers are also beautiful to have in the yard, but they will block sight lines all the time, so place with caution. Karin L

If the trees were in pots, the mixture they would have been planted in would be one to allow good drainage - in the nursery, pots are watered daily with an automatic system, usually, even twice daily on the hottest days, and good drainage in the pot is a must. Since the trees MAY have had enough or even too much water in the first few days/weeks, it may also be that the leaves were dried out too much before they were planted, in transport, especially if that entailed travel on highways - wind and sun are very drying. When planted, the root ball usually needs to be watered daily, or every other day, for the first few days, until the roots have a chance to grow out of the root ball and into the surrounding soil. After that, the frequency of watering can slowly be cut back, as the dryness of the soil/root ball dictates, until watering takes place weekly. Do NOT water on a schedule but according to the dictates of your soil. Right now, soak the root ball, in a LONG, SLOW watering - you want the water to get to the very bottom of the root ball. Test by sticking a finger up to the second knuckle into the soil (into the root ball for now, and for the next month), and water again when it is dry at that distance down, about 2 inches. If the root ball is very dry, then water, even if the surrounding soil is moist. If it is very sunny, hot or windy, you may need to water daily, if it is cool or shady, then less frequently; if you have clay, it may be once a week, if in sand, every other day - I don't know your soil nor your weather. If the leaves wilt in the heat of the day, don't worry as long as they perk back up in the evening or by morning - it's a normal physiological reaction to heat. If they stay wilted, WATER! I would suggest that you speak again to the nursery, and speak to the manager or owner, as the advice given you was less than helpful. If they aren't accomodating, I suggest you avoid that nursery in the future, at least for advice and planting services! Ask for a guarantee, since they advised you on the care of your tree. It MAY pull through, going into early dormancy, and it may not, having become too dry in the hottest part of the summer. If you try a scratch test on a twig/branch - lightly scratch through the outer bark and see if the cambium layer is still green - and it is green, then with care, the tree should be OK come spring. Even if it loses all its leaves, keep watering as indicated - the roots will continue to grow until the ground freezes. Another possibility is that the trees were planted too deeply - take a look and if the trunk goes straight into the ground like a telephone pole, then it may be planted too deeply. Dig around at the base of the trunk until you come to the root flare, which should be at or slightly above ground level. If it is only an inch or so down, you can gently scrape the soil back, as widely as possible, and keep it clear. If it is more than that, then it is too deep, and I would ask that they come back, re-dig them and reset them a few inches high, since the soil put into the bottom of the hole will settle. There should be no or a nominal charge for this, since it is their mistake, but..... If you, or the installers, did not mulch, I would do so - it keeps the roots cooler, more moist, limits weed/grass competition and keeps weed-eaters and lawn mowers away from the trunk. Mulch as widely as possible, at least 3', no deeper than 4", and put NO mulch in the inch or so next to the trunk. Of course, if the trees were planted deeply, then wait to mulch until after that has been rectified.

I'd say they're toast buddy. Mid-June is time to take them back. You should see dead buds on the tree at this point assuming they're gonners. They'll be shriveled up and not red, probably black. Here's a link I found to Acer rubrum twigs. You can see the flowers present and the buds still in tact. Those are the buds you should still have if it's alive. There's a magnifier, just click your mouse. Dax Here is a link that might be useful:

I have a row of 5 Red Sunset Maples. There are about 3 years old. They are about 25' tall but I'm worried that their leaves don't look lush, even though they're young, like other (older) Red Sunset trees down the street from me. FYI: Ours are in full sun, theirs are in shade for late afternoon. My trees receive about 7 gal 2x a week via drip and we are thinking of increasing to 3x per week. We live in SF East Bay where summers can be 90's and we of course are in a drought. What are your thoughts regarding the looks of the trees?