If the trees were in pots, the mixture they would have been planted in would be one to allow good drainage - in the nursery, pots are watered daily with an automatic system, usually, even twice daily on the hottest days, and good drainage in the pot is a must. Since the trees MAY have had enough or even too much water in the first few days/weeks, it may also be that the leaves were dried out too much before they were planted, in transport, especially if that entailed travel on highways - wind and sun are very drying.

When planted, the root ball usually needs to be watered daily, or every other day, for the first few days, until the roots have a chance to grow out of the root ball and into the surrounding soil. After that, the frequency of watering can slowly be cut back, as the dryness of the soil/root ball dictates, until watering takes place weekly. Do NOT water on a schedule but according to the dictates of your soil.

Right now, soak the root ball, in a LONG, SLOW watering - you want the water to get to the very bottom of the root ball. Test by sticking a finger up to the second knuckle into the soil (into the root ball for now, and for the next month), and water again when it is dry at that distance down, about 2 inches. If the root ball is very dry, then water, even if the surrounding soil is moist. If it is very sunny, hot or windy, you may need to water daily, if it is cool or shady, then less frequently; if you have clay, it may be once a week, if in sand, every other day - I don't know your soil nor your weather. If the leaves wilt in the heat of the day, don't worry as long as they perk back up in the evening or by morning - it's a normal physiological reaction to heat. If they stay wilted, WATER!

I would suggest that you speak again to the nursery, and speak to the manager or owner, as the advice given you was less than helpful. If they aren't accomodating, I suggest you avoid that nursery in the future, at least for advice and planting services! Ask for a guarantee, since they advised you on the care of your tree. It MAY pull through, going into early dormancy, and it may not, having become too dry in the hottest part of the summer. If you try a scratch test on a twig/branch - lightly scratch through the outer bark and see if the cambium layer is still green - and it is green, then with care, the tree should be OK come spring. Even if it loses all its leaves, keep watering as indicated - the roots will continue to grow until the ground freezes.

Another possibility is that the trees were planted too deeply - take a look and if the trunk goes straight into the ground like a telephone pole, then it may be planted too deeply. Dig around at the base of the trunk until you come to the root flare, which should be at or slightly above ground level. If it is only an inch or so down, you can gently scrape the soil back, as widely as possible, and keep it clear. If it is more than that, then it is too deep, and I would ask that they come back, re-dig them and reset them a few inches high, since the soil put into the bottom of the hole will settle. There should be no or a nominal charge for this, since it is their mistake, but.....

If you, or the installers, did not mulch, I would do so - it keeps the roots cooler, more moist, limits weed/grass competition and keeps weed-eaters and lawn mowers away from the trunk. Mulch as widely as possible, at least 3', no deeper than 4", and put NO mulch in the inch or so next to the trunk. Of course, if the trees were planted deeply, then wait to mulch until after that has been rectified.

You said: "yet the ball is pretty dry."

The reason is that the moisture from the surrounding soil won't move into the rootball.

The fix: drizzle water onto the surface of the rootball. Daily, for maybe 5 minutes. Check the rootball to know for certain.

muddy: Excellent advice from Dibbit - comprehensive and correct, as always. When trees are transplanted in high summer, as these were, they have harder time settling in and surviving - factors to consider for future plantings. Good luck ~ Pam

Did they wrap the trees in a tarp for transport, if they transported them in an open back truck? If they didn't the leaves and trees could have wind damage from the transport. This happened to me once when I purchased some trees from a nursery. They know better.

Sorry I have not been here for a while. I did continue the watering but the trees have continued their leaf drop. What a shame if I loose them. Very full beautiful trees. The B&B trees were covered when they delivered them.

You may not lose them, they may just go dormant early and recover next spring. It can be hard to stop a process once it's started (the leaf drop).