Lennie, Starting in the gritty type mix is fine, but you will notice that you will need to water them a little bit more, as you probably already are. I have had them lean as yours are and it is not necessarily due to lack of light or not rotating seedlings. I would be tempted to leave them in the pots that they are in and top dress with a 1/8" - 1/4" layer of grit to help hold them vertical, but not too much. If you do repot, use the gritty mix. By what you stated that you used as a mix, you need to just add some coarse bark (reptile bark is what many use). Hope this helps, Rick

I don't use that stuff. I make my own because it's much more cost effective. If you need to buy soil mix, find one that's not heavy on wood debris and consider adding sifted compost. Onions like nutrient rich soil to grow strong till transplanting. If I only need to germinate and plan on potting up (tomatoes, peppers) I use less compost or used soil. I never found a need for 'soil-less mix'. I think it's unnecessary. If you did use starter mix, you will need to feed heavily or pot up. As you said, that stuff doesn't have any nutrients. As far as pot size, with good soil you can cram quite a lot of onions into a small container as you can see in my photo, 1/4" apart is fine. Next time, consider starting in good soil and avoiding a step. Don't let this (or me) discourage you, I'm sure they will do great! Here's how I grow mine: This post was edited by madroneb on Sun, Feb 3, 13 at 1:40

Kristen, since they have no need to be rushed into a large pot.....which would not do well by their emerging roots, I suggest you go up only to a 4" pot until you are ready to put them outside in May. Such a sized pot will do nicely by your seedlings. They can be best kept in a moist state--no danger of overwatering in the small pot, less chance of rotting or mildew. Fertilizing can be better controlled for the size of the cutting.

Stephen, I am not familiar with the climate in Cheshire or whether you have more seasonal type rainfall, but in my climate, I stop watering containers once fall rains become common......like right now :-) If you get routine regular rainfall in fall and winter, then you can stop watering your patio pots. But I would check them periodically throughout any extended dry spells. You do not want the soil to dry too completely but neither do you want it saturated - and a good durable, aerated potting medium will help to avoid that . There is no issue about the pots being exposed to frosts but you do want to be cautious about freezing weather. The roots of Japanese maples can be fatally damaged at temps below 25F (-3.9C) and that can occur relatively easily with containerized maples that do not have the benefit of the insulating factor of a large soil mass surrounding them. Plants or seedlings in a protected location will need some monitoring of soil moisture through the winter. Again, you want the soil to be just moist, not completely dry nor too wet. I can't tell you how to handle the seeds/seedlings through winter, as that is not my area of expertise at all. Hopefully someone who does grow JM's from seed will chime in with their advice.