If it is a fairly windy location, that's another reason to move it to a more sheltered, shady spot - JM's don't like wind either. If you have one, a spot that is sheltered from most winds, and gets afternoon or middle of the day shade, would be ideal. Try scratching lightly at several branches. If the cambium layer (the layer just under the bark) is still green, there is hope for it still to leaf out. How have you been watering, and how much, as that can also be a factor? I can't see the junction of trunk and mulch clearly, but Texasredhead is right that all trees and shrubs should be planted with the root/trunk flare at ground level - the flare is where the trunk does just that, just above the roots. It often happens that trees/shrubs are planted too deeply, which they do not like. Your JM is recently enough planted that you could lift it and replant it - IF it is buried too deeply.

here's a TL;DR for you ;) i'm not an entomologist or anything, so i adamantly suggest you take this and any other info someone relays on the internet with a heaping grain of salt... from what i understand, there are two parts to the subject of "safety to bees" in regard to pesticides: - Application method (spray, dust or granule?) - Active ingredient (known toxicity to bees?) from what i gather, systemics are safer because they flow through the internal plant tissues, so the affect to bees and other pollinators which touch external parts of the plant is negligible. obviously, i think there would be some systemic transfer to pollen, but such contact via pollen is apparently negligible to bees compared to the contact that japanese beetles get by clear-cutting the entire leaf tissue, which would indicate granules provide more bang vs. buck without the need for re-application you suffer by using liquids and powders, and re-applicaiton lengthens the window for potential harm to bees. as a noteworthy point, systemics usually last up to 3 months, whereas powders and liquids lose most of their strength in 5-10 days. powders are supposed to be the absolute worst of the worst, the most toxic concoction you can use on your plants to kill undesireable insects. Sevin is one of the popular products many people use that kills a lot of bees. water washes off powder (needs reapplication), and it is not easily applied without hitting the flowers. sprays are supposedly right up there with powders, only reapplication isn't as dire of a requirement. it was recommended to me to use Bayer 2-in-1 Systemic Rose & Flower Care Granules on our roses. the active ingredient is Disulfoton (1%). granted, it is listed at NDSU's agriculture website as "mildly toxic" right up there with Sevin, but read on... Oregon State University has a PDF document discussing reducing bee poisonings in which it states that Disulfoton use (as in the Bayer 2-in-1 product) is safer in granule format than other applications and, what it looks like it is implying is that as long as you're not treating alfalfa or treating near alfalfa leaf-cutting-bees, it should be OK? most noteworthy, that Oregan State document states that both Disulfoton and Sevin granules "can be applied at any time with relative safety to bees". whereas EVERY SINGLE SPRAY/POWDER is listed as "not safe for X hours or X days. i also found an interesting wiki page on the subject i'm in the process of reading. certainly there must be someone who specializes in this kind of thing here @ GW that someone can strum up? :D i'm not suggesting that anyone should take my advice - do your own reading, feel free to pore over the resources i've provided, or try to hit Google with terms like systemic pesticides honeybees or systemic pesticides bees to gather more resources. NOTE: never use anything systemic near food-producing plants/trees. don't ask why i'm mentioning this ;)

Susan, They are precious and I love having them around. Debra, Cross vine grows in just about anything from full sun to almost full shade. I've had it grow and bloom well in dappled shade in Fort Worth and in full sun here in southern OK. At the right time of the year, American Cross Vine is easy to find in nurseries and garden centers. I see it at places like Lowe's or Home Depot every year, and the same is true of coral honeysuckle. I bought my 'Pink Lemonade' honeyscuckle at a Lowe's. Hummers are quite feisty. I'm assuming they have no concept of how small they actually are in comparison to the other birds they often take on. Dawn

Consider the entry and storage sequence of usage. The kitchen in the upper left is the worst for that. And that’s a big deal. It’s always ideal to locate the kitchen adjacent to the family entry. It’s better function and flow. Wow is completely overrated in the world of things that physically work. It’s overrated for “resale” too. Resale is about square footage and location. Wow won’t allow a 300K neighborhood have a 450K house in it’s middle. Maybe a 315K one. This is also a very expensive project. Relocating kitchens has every bit of cost as a plain remodel, plus all of the structural and systems relocations. If this is a slab rather than a basement? Totally forget it. I wouldn’t even consider buying this house if it hinges on this project as being a prerequisite to moving in. If you cannot live in the home as is, with this as a future goal in a few years, then buy a different house. It will cost far more, and take far longer than you think. Living in the home will be virtually undoable while something of that invasive nature is going on. It would certainly be months of costly misery. Then there is the issue nonrecoupable expenditure, just to personalize it to your tastes, that you cannot ignore in your equation. Realize that the thousands and thousands that this remodel costs is NOT going to be added back as value to the home. It’s an expense only. Cash money outlay. Not an investment. The pleasure of a personalized home nay be enough justification for you. It is for many! But that pleasure is the only reason to go this route instead of buying a different home.