There is no way to tell at all until it's leafed out, and even then, since it's so young, it would be difficult to ID it authoritatively. Many Japanese maple cultivars look extremely similar, and it is often hard even for experienced growers to identify the cultivar. That being said, I would advise you to wait until it leafs out, and then post good pics (of the entire tree and a close-up of the leaves) on the maples forum, where all the Japanese maple experts hang out.

Amending the soil in any way is old "wisdom". All current research tells us that using native soil -- and choosing plants that adapt to our native soil -- is the answer to long-term success. Plantings of Japanese maples throughout California also show that it's not the "pH" that makes a difference. Japanese maples do fine in high pH (alkaline) soils. It's our hard water (MUCH harder in our area and south than up north where lucky Al lives) that causes the yellowing and outright "burn" of maple foliage (not sun, nor wind, btw). Yes, hard water is alkaline but it's the mineral content that is the issue, not the alkalinity. Al points out that drainage is key, which goes to our hard water. Poorly drained soils accumulate the salts. Just as does watering frequently and shallowly (as almost all gardeners do with everything) does. Amending only compounds a poor drainage issue. Engineering a drainage fix is the only answer. And Al is very right about planting too deeply; seen it too many times. But "16 square feet"?! Also, the native mineral component of the soil pretty much dictates what the pH is going to be. Organic matter has little and only short-term impact. But a good mulch on Japanese maples helps maintain soil moisture and keeps the soil cooler, both JM needs. Add a little shade and you've got it (although 'Sango-kaku' colors best in sun). If you still have some tip-burn from hard water, leach the soil monthly duing the summer months with REALLY DEEP waterings. Japanese maples in containers show tip burn from our hard water even more. Same solution: water deeply. Finally, B1 is a myth and a scam. It does nothing. Joe

I suppose it is possible that too much water has cut off most of the oxygen to the roots or allowed a soil pathogen to damage the roots (hopefully not). But generally when these problems occur it becomes evident during the heat of the summer as the tree suffers greatly when not enough water can get to the top due to the damage. I would think poor soil/lack of nutrients would be a better indication of little to no growth, or possibly too little water. If I were you, I would dig down next to the rootball to check on the moisture levels and on the root situation. If there is no noticable root growth (all brown, no white), then we may have a serious problem and probably need to think about digging the little guy up. I wouldnt do this now, but either when the leaves drop or in the spring before it leafs out (not sure on how cold u get and if this would be a problem for fall). Also check to make sure it isn't too deep (make sure the root flare is at or above the soil surface). If it is too low we really need to raise it up above the soil level in a wet area particularly. Also keep in mind that the spring freeze set many people's trees back a couple of years, and even killed many peoples' small trees (even some quite large trees). That may be the reason for a lack of growth this year, but it doesn't explain the previous years.

I see that censorship is alive and well on the Gardenweb. I've seen a lot of Japanese maples in my life and I've seen many with multiple branches low on the trunk but never one that has several trunks coming out of the ground like in the photos that Dave posted. It truly does look like a shrub. That look is not my cup of tea for a Japanese maple. If I want something that looks like a lilic then I'll go buy the lilac. IMHO, the Burgandy Lace was not pruned properly when it was younger although that it strictly from a viewpoint of aesthetics and not structural abnormalities. Looking at it's branching structure, I don't see any branches that resemble the acute angle on the maple in this thread. I still maintain that the latter needs a pruning job to correct for a structural defect. A tree that gets this large is going to act like a sail. Consequently, the wind is going to get leverage on any tall trunks that branch low on the tree. I am not saying that a Japanese maple needs to be pruned to look like an oak tree or any other really large tree. What I am saying is that sound pruning practices are applicable for any plants above a certain size. It is irresponsible and amateurish to suggest otherwise. It is also hypocritical to suggest this for some trees but not others not to mention confusing for anyone new to the Gardenweb. I must respond to one of the deleted posts. Basically, it was stated that this tree will not recover and fill out from pruning off the second leader. K4 hit the nail on the head in his response which was that the tree will throw out a lot of new growth next year after this leader is pruned off. This new growth will provide plenty of opportunity to shape the tree into a far better look than it has now. Without question, the tree will quickly fill out and I question the practical experience of anyone who states otherwise.