Thanks for the photo assist, Dave. They are planted in promix, and I have not fertilized. But I just realized I used the promix vegetable and herb blend! That could explain why my eggplant seedlings looked bad as well (which I thought was a light issue)! Yes, they are cowpots, which I thought was a huge mistake, but the small pots held up so well I used the larger ones when I potted up. I plan on removing them when I plant in my garden. thanks for the input, everyone! So it does not look like disease to you? I had such an abysmal year for tomatoes last year (pin worms, fun) that I am a bit paranoid now. Realizing my dumb potting mix could be the issue--we'll see soon. It is finally warming up here so I can plant outside.

As long as there is no spear pull there's still hope. One of my windmill's even had spear pull and it came back somehow. It looked pretty gnarly for a few years, but it's doing great now. temps here reached a low of 6 degrees and none of my 9 windmills showed any damage at all. Different story for my Livingstonia and Washingtonia. Won't know until spring if they'll pull through or not. I did notice that the fronds on your tree look pretty wimpy, is it getting full sun? If not, that will affect cold tolerance. Cold hardy palms need full sun during the summer in order to store up enough energy to make it through the starving time in the winter. I think your palm is going to make it and be just fine but I also think it should be more robust at it's present height. It may be missing something; light, warm soil, or fertilizer during the summer. The palm on the right had spear pull, you can see the size difference. Both palms were planted at the same time and were the same size.

I've tried many different solutions for moles and only one has been effective for me - Victor's plunger style trap. I also tried their bear trap style unit but I never got a hit on it. If you follow a few simple steps on the plunger type it works very well. Find an active tunnel by stepping on portions of their network. If they "rebuild" that section within 24 hours, it's active. remove a 8" section of the tunnel roof. place a hard "speed bump" in this section - I've used a section of a cedar shingle or other scraps of wood, hardpack clay or anything that would cause the mole to go over the bump rather than throu or under it. You then replace the removed roof section. Set the plunger trap directly over the speed bump - making sure that the trigger is in contact with the tunnel roof. You want the slightest upward movement of the roof to trigger the plunger spikes. Cover the entire trap with a sturdy box, bucket or trash can (so pets and kids don't get near it). Check the traps early in the morning. If one has been triggered, immediately step on it shoving the spikes into or through the speed bump. Then dig around the spikes to remove the trap without bending the spikes or freeing the mole. Below is a link to this trap. You can find them at TSC, Northern Tool and probably at any home improvement store. My dogs had pretty severe medical issues that the vet suspects were a result of arsnic poisoning. The only source I could think of would be poisons related to the rodent/mole problems we had in my neighborhood (I seriously doubt someone intentionally poisoned them). No matter how bad your mole problem is, try to steer clear of the poisons as it just spreads it through the food chain. Here is a link that might be useful: Victor plunger style trap

Might be stuck on the paralysis of the analysis. This is a better view of the whole room with lights on and off. I was just stuck on thinking these blinds were “too white”. The white paint you see around it (including trim) is Extra White by SW.