Welcome to Arizona gardening. Its not required but recommended that your tomatoes either get afternoon shade or be protected from the afternoon sun with 50% shade cloth. I'm not sure how many bean plants you will need. I have not been as successful with them as some other members have been. I started a thread about tomatoes in the tomato forum that may be of help to you. The link is below. Peppers grow well here but do better with afternoon shade. From time to time a farmer will stop by and say they grow in Arizona without shade or shade cloth. Farming is different than vegetable gardening though. I drive by some farms on occasion that are not far from my home. Each time I do the temps drop as much as 5-10 degrees, sometimes more at night. A field full of peppers or tomatoes is evaporating massive amounts of water over a large area which drops the temperature and increases relative humidity. In my garden I can have 8 percent relative humidity at 110 degrees with a 15 mile an hour wind speed. At the same time in the farmers field its 99 degrees with 50 percent humidity with a 15 mile an hour wind. That dryer wind in the home garden in full afternoon sun can suck the life out of a plant. My main crops are squash, tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers and a few melons during the summer. If you click on the photo it will take you to my photobucket page where you can see more pictures. Here is a link that might be useful: What varieties will continue to produce through hot weather?

Thanks. The description on the Supernano Marconi Gold sounds interesting -- a yellow, half-runner, Romano would be an excellent addition to my bean selection. I'm happy with the current yellow and purple bush beans -- Dragon Langerie is the bean I plant when I can only grow one and Royal Burgundy Purple Pod is a definite improvement on the old Royalty Purple Pod for my purposes (which may not be anyone else's purposes so anyone inclined towards purple beans should try both). So its the pole and half-runner types in yellow and purple that I'm wondering about. As for the cowpeas, I won't say that you couldn't pay me to eat beans in the shell stage, but it wouldn't come cheap. ;-) :-D LOL I've never enjoyed limas, shell beans, or any form of dry bean except lentils and garbanzos. Are there any particular cowpea varieties that are better as snap beans than others? I'm enjoying learning to grow the heat-loving veggies I've never had before.

With all the good information here I can't really add anthing new but I can echo several good points. I only grow pole beans and pole limas and occasionally yardlongs or another vining pea, so I have a lot of poles. I have 1800 7ft fiberglass rods and 1000 8ft bamboo poles. I use all the rods and about 1/3 to 1/2 of the bamboo a season. My rows are 4ft apart. I have a 42inch tiller attachment for my tractor that I can till down between the rows once before everything gets mulched with straw, making most everthing I plant 48inches apart. I plant my rows running east to west even though my garden slopes down from west to east as much as 15ft on the south end and 3ft on the north end. My gardening practices prevent any errosion and the benefit of having the sun shine between the rows is why I plant east to west. I have tried to plant a short season crop between the rows but it is not practical when they are side by side. The beans grow too quickly and even though side by side rows do fine the middles get too little sun to do anything, even weeds are spindly and I just mow them once or twice in the season. Another benefit is deer protection as Zeedman mentioned. My main garden plot is 145x300 with 125ft rows and room at the top and bottom to manuver around. I also have another 50x50 plot and a 25x30 plot. I grow alot of tall crops sorghum, old dent corns heirloom tomatoes the beans and peas. The long rows of poles or tomato cages make a fence barrier preventing deer from moving across the garden from north to south which is their normal path. Again the long high rows creat narrow tunnels that the deer will not go through, preventing movement from east to west. There is some benefit of the tall rows I found this year. I have a row of everbearing strawberries I planted two years ago. This year they are sandwiched between the corn and a row of sorghum both topping out at over 12ft. I thought it would shade out the strawberries but this year I am still picking berries because they get some sun but are keep cool therefore the relentless heat we have has been sheilded from them and they are still producing berries and look better than ever. I don't always plant side by side rows. I actually prefer to skip two to four rows and plant melons or winter squash between and let the vines cover the area. I also start late field peas in the path next to a row of spring planted pole beans because shortly after the peas are up the beans are finished and the poles will be coming down so I wouldn't recommend side by side plantings. Again on the deer control I have a row of pole beans then say 8 rows of peanuts spaced three ft apart then a row of pole limas, then three rows of peas three foot apart then another row of poles then a 10ft wide watermelon patch another row of poles etc. all this creates tunnels that deter the deer and everthing gets good light. Right now the I have 7 rows of tomatoes with a row of cucumbers between each row. The cucumbers are finished and I will till it under and plant collards, cabbage, kale, etc inbetween the rowsin the next couple of weeks. By the time these are big enough to make it difficult to walk between the tomatoes are done and their cages are removed and that area is now the path and I will also plant narrow 2ft wide rows of lettuce turnips spinach etc. where the tomatoes were or oats or barley for grain or clover for covercrop Conclusion if practical run rows east to west don't plant side by side poles, but can be done, and then can plant area between poles more effectively, take advantage of natural deer repelants. Why I plant pole varieties? more productive less bending over and I like heirloom varieties which are mostly pole and I like the look of long rows of poles. This turned out long but I hope I added something.

I actually have a long 8'x80' to grow all the tall garden plants, from sunflower, sweet corns, to cucumbers, pole beans, Okra, Brussel sprout, and maybe peppers. I allocated 50' for sunflowers and corns. That may be too much. For support, I'm thinking of using some soft netting, like fish net. This is strong, but still flexible to move to another location after the season. So, for trellis, some iron steel posts, metal wire at the very top. Then attach the net to the very top. I may have to add most posts if the plants are heavy.