The leaves look like iron chlorosis to me. In past years, I had similar problems with our blueberry shrubs. It took me several years to figure out pH issues with our soil & water. Here in Madison, Wisconsin, our native soil has pH = 7.6, and our tap water(city wells) has the same pH, way too high for blueberry shrubs. Back in 2005, I bought a pH meter, Hanna Instruments, for around 35 dollars, and began testing our soil. This was after several years of using ammonium sulfate, agricultural sulfur, and 5% white vinegar, added to our tap water. When I tested the soil around our shrubs, in the spring, I found out that the soil had pH around 6.5, still too high for blueberries. I finally located a 50 lb bag of agricultural sulfur, at a feed 'n seed farmers co-op, a few miles out of town. Last year I started applying more sulfur around the shrubs, one pound per shrub, in a three foot diameter circle. This spring, when I tested the soil pH, I saw pH values between 3.5 and 4.5, lower than expected. Along the way, I shifted from using a pH meter, which must be carefully calibrated, to dye indicator, not quite as precise, but less expensive, and very reliable. Bromocresol green indicator will turn a test solution yellow at pH = 3.8, and blue at pH = 5.4. If the pH is between those two values, the solution will be a shade of green. A small bottle, one fluid ounce, of bromocresol green indicator will run about two dollars, and should be sufficient for 100 soil tests. You can check out your Ferry-Morse pH meter by testing 5% white vinegar, which has a pH around 3.5. Distilled water, or de-ionized water, should have pH = 7. My experience with growing blueberries leads me to suspect that your soil has a pH around 7. If it was closer to 5, the leaves would be a deeper green color. I realize this is a long post, with much detailed content. If you hang in there and get the pH under control, it is quite possible to grow blueberries successfully, even if the native soil is alkaline. In a good year, we get around 3 gallons of fruit from our shrubs. So far, this year, our shrubs have flowered, and are now covered with green berries. It's looking like we will have a good crop.

The asiatics tend to reproduce more quickly than the others and need to be divided more frequently. When the clump begins to look crowded or blooming declines it's time to divide. This is usually best done in fall after the foliage has ripened or turned yellow/brown. Carefully dig down and under the clump to lift it. You want to be careful not to dig into the bulbs.Stay well back from the stem(s) as they don't always come up straight above the bulb. Also lily bulbs have contractile roots and can pull themselves deeper into the ground as they grow so they may be deeper then you originally planted them. once you have them out of the ground you need to carefully pull the bulbs apart. Sometimes washing the soil off with a hose can help to untangle the roots. If you google North American Lily Society you will find links and info on growing lilies. If they don't have answers to your questions follow the North Star Lily Society link.

For Steve Silk fans who can't make it to this talk he is also speaking at a NEWFS symposia (one of 4 speakers that day): INNOVATIVE DESIGN FOR GARDEN BEDS, BORDERS, AND CONTAINERS SYM0602 MassBay Community College, Wellesley, MA, Saturday, April 29, 9 a.m.Â3:30 p.m. A PASSION FOR POTS with Steve Silk Gardening in pots offers easy experimentation for new and experienced gardeners alike. Trying out new plants, playing with color schemes, and learning how to create dynamic plant combinations are all easier when the ingredients are in pots, and thus easily rearranged. Steve Silk will run the gamut of container gardeningÂfrom a few plants in a single pot to whole container-based gardens utilizing scores of planters arranged into borders. He will touch upon basic propagation, over-wintering tender perennials, fertilizing, deadheading, and watering. Steve Silk is an award-winning photographer, a contributing editor and writer for Fine Gardening magazine, and collaborator with author Sydney Eddison on the just-released Gardens to Go (Bullfinch, 2005) as well as The GardenerÂs Palette: Creating with Color in the Garden (Contemporary Press, 2002). An accomplished gardener and horticulturist, Steve has appeared on HGTVÂs Gardening by the Yard. I would highly recommend the Gardens To Go book he coauthored with Sydney Eddison. Visually stunning photos!

Fauxchick if you put glue on those fabulous drapes I'll fly down and shoot you myself LOL Having them adjusted profesionally will be quite inexpensive...you're taking the right route there :) Or you could mail them to me and I'll do them...mind you, I may have to hang them for a few years to get the wrinkles out...but when I'm done with them, you can have them right back :oP heh heh I too love this thread...I don't get to play with silk as much as I used to (I used to make quilts that were donated to charities asking my employer for money...in a busy bank, with lenders all around me, you'd see my corner office...Fancy desk, lots of file cabinets, very banker like...but wth? There's a babylock on the table in the corner and several piles of silk on the desk :) I loved being able to sew at work LOL I just pulled baby out of the closet and she's looking at me with great longing...maybe I'll make a drape today...she needs me :) (Unfortunately so does my 3 year old and he's not much help with the fabic!!!)