That looks about right for rabbit eye blueberries. Is that crushed limestone in the background? It won't hurt to remove that. Are you fertilizing? with what kind of fertilizer?
How much sun are they getting?

The leaves look like iron chlorosis to me. In past years, I had similar problems with our blueberry shrubs. It took me several years to figure out pH issues with our soil & water. Here in Madison, Wisconsin, our native soil has pH = 7.6, and our tap water(city wells) has the same pH, way too high for blueberry shrubs. Back in 2005, I bought a pH meter, Hanna Instruments, for around 35 dollars, and began testing our soil. This was after several years of using ammonium sulfate, agricultural sulfur, and 5% white vinegar, added to our tap water. When I tested the soil around our shrubs, in the spring, I found out that the soil had pH around 6.5, still too high for blueberries. I finally located a 50 lb bag of agricultural sulfur, at a feed 'n seed farmers co-op, a few miles out of town. Last year I started applying more sulfur around the shrubs, one pound per shrub, in a three foot diameter circle. This spring, when I tested the soil pH, I saw pH values between 3.5 and 4.5, lower than expected. Along the way, I shifted from using a pH meter, which must be carefully calibrated, to dye indicator, not quite as precise, but less expensive, and very reliable. Bromocresol green indicator will turn a test solution yellow at pH = 3.8, and blue at pH = 5.4. If the pH is between those two values, the solution will be a shade of green. A small bottle, one fluid ounce, of bromocresol green indicator will run about two dollars, and should be sufficient for 100 soil tests. You can check out your Ferry-Morse pH meter by testing 5% white vinegar, which has a pH around 3.5. Distilled water, or de-ionized water, should have pH = 7. My experience with growing blueberries leads me to suspect that your soil has a pH around 7. If it was closer to 5, the leaves would be a deeper green color. I realize this is a long post, with much detailed content. If you hang in there and get the pH under control, it is quite possible to grow blueberries successfully, even if the native soil is alkaline. In a good year, we get around 3 gallons of fruit from our shrubs. So far, this year, our shrubs have flowered, and are now covered with green berries. It's looking like we will have a good crop.

wow thanks so much for the helpful comments so far!

destin_gardener, the stone is just drainage rock from Lowe's. I can't recall the type, but i don't believe it's limestone. I have not fertilized them yet, and they are along the east fence that faces due south. They get sun most of the day.

ericwi, I really appreciate your detailed response. It's good to know somebody experienced something similar. Deep down I feel this is a ph issue and my ph levels are too high. Where can I purchase the Bromocresol green indicator? I'd like to try it. Your message gave me a glimmer of hope that my plants will make it!

To update the scenario, I bought a box of miracle gro miracid fertilizer, some pure ammonium sulfate, and a bag of iron sulfate. Tonight I will use at least one of them (most likely the miracid) in combination with some garden sulfur to lower the ph (not sure how much I will use... at least some...) unless somebody else can recommend a better idea. I'll take a new picture as soon as I get home tonight and post it for ya'll.

The color doesn't look bad to me, if they have just opened. They should darken up a bit as they get older.

Bromocresol green indicator solution can be found, over the ingternet, at HMS Beagle. I think they are located in Mississippi, or Missouri. Something with an "M." Blueberry shrubs need full sun, all day, to thrive, and produce the most fruit. They will do OK in full sun, half-day locations. We have several shrubs planted alongside the house, & they see morning sun only. These shrubs produce about one cup of fruit per season. If the leaves have green veins, and they are lighter green between the veins, this is a sign of iron chlorosis. Usually, the cause is soil pH that is too high, because there is almost always enough iron in the soil. The problem is the plant can't take up the iron, because the root system needs soil pH to be between 4.5 and 6.5 in order to function well. The fastest way to lower soil pH is to add acid to a bucket of water, and use this water to irrigate the blueberry shrub. But you have to know the soil pH, and the pH of the water, before you can determine how much acid to use. It's possible to kill a shrub with too much acid. Our tap water, supplied by the city, is hard, with total hardness = 335 milligrams per liter. Calcium is about 70 milligrams per liter, and magnesium is around 41 milligrams per liter. When watering blueberries, I add 6 fluid ounces of 5% white vinegar to 4 gallons of cold tap water, & this lowers the pH to around 5. There are people who have naturally acidic soil, and well water that is free of dissolved limestone. They can mulch their blueberry shrubs with pine needles, and grow these shrubs with very little effort. Those of us who live in areas with calciferous soil, and hard water, have to work at it to get good results.

Cool! I will search around and order some of that solution. In the meantime, instead of messing with the soil I'll wait until I can take a ph reading with the bromocresol to get an idea of where I need to be. I was a bit unclear about the amount of sunlight these plants get - it's definitely full sun.

Tonight I'll check the leaves and get some good pics to post. Hopefully this is simply a ph problem. I will give them some of that miracid fertilizer because I live in a fairly new development and I'm almost positive my soil is devoid of nutrients.

Can I ask a dumb question? How did you find out the stats of your city water?? Is that info provided by the city? Does it ever fluctuate? If I can find out this info today, I can start altering my water (if needed) like you do to better suit the shrubs' needs without having to wait for the ph solution to arrive. Tonite I may go to buy some peat moss and scavenge for pine needles to use for mulch.

oregonwoodsmoke, unfortunately the leaves have been open for at least a month now. I wouldn't consider them freshly open :-/

I was having some similar problems. I added vinegar to the water and cottenseed meal around the plants. They are looking better. I also gave a problem rhododendron a shot of the vinegar water and was surprised at the improvement. Someone else on one of the forums said, I believe, that it helps with iron absorption.
Anyways, I love cheap and easy so I will be sticking with vinegar once a month or so. Right now we are getting torrential rain, so I am just leaving them alone.

Regarding Madison tap water, we get an annual water report, from the City Water Utility, every spring, sometime in February. I don't know how much the water varies from day to day. As far as I know, the figures given are stable throughout the year.