Purchasing Fungicide Contrast or Prostar......
gardenlady48
15 years ago
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ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
15 years agobrpinson
15 years agoRelated Discussions
Sombreuil & Don Juan
Comments (12)I read through the planting and care catalog today that I got from the nursery and it reads that you can weave the canes through a trellis. I'm assuming the ONLY reason this isn't a good idea is because when it's time to get them out (if they die) it's a pain in the butt, and not because it's going to affect growth. I also read that training the canes sideways rather than straight up will produce many more blooms, but then I also read that a "true climber" doesn't have to be trained sideways. But, i don't know what constitutes a "true climber", so I'll train sideways since I'm sure it won't hurt to do so. Sombreuil is growing like mad, by the way. Countrygirl, I think you were right about the water, but now I have to move my clematis b/c I'm afraid of root rot. I've also been feeding the roses banana peels and they look very happy. :) Don Juan is doing fine, and I got more blooms on both climbers since my original post. I spoke with the specialist in the nursery and was told that they wouldn't be selling DJ in our area if it was not hardy here. I was told, however, to add a foot mound of soil to the base to winterize. I don't remember - do I bury the canes too?? I wrote down what he was telling me, but now I can't find my note. I also deadheaded and trimmed off any rubbing canes, and cleaned it up a bit to allow for better air flow. I'm so pleased that they are starting to look so wonderful. I had some mildew with the DJ, but I'm spraying it diligently with my home remedy, and I've removed leaves that appeared to suffer from black spot, and it's an improvement. I was told the most important thing is not to prune in the fall, never, never, never....See MoreIf you enjoy a challenge: Calling on the expert rosarians
Comments (6)Dear Newsview, I am no expert, but I can share what I have learned in 12 years of growing roses in the hot Central Valley. Winter watering is critical. Water is restricted where I live, so I try to irrigate in winter in dry years to help my roses grow a good root system through the winter months. I second your idea of pruning in early summer. Many of my best roses quite sensibly take a nap during summer months. You might want to interplant with some aromatic plants--I particularly like lavender--for summer interest and to help repel insects. Weeding, my worst failing, is also critcal. There is simply not enough water to support the roses and the weeds. Herbs, like the lavender just mentioned, rosemary, etc. have fairly low water requirements. Also, I hope you are spreading a thick mulch to feed your plants and suppress weeds. I have had very good results with alfalfa pellets, available from feed stores, spread around the roots of my rose bushes. These can be covered with a layer of composted manure--available at Savemart at a very low cost--wood chips, or other mulch for appearance. You might want to consider switching to some organic methods, which I think--nonexpert personal opinion--might work for stressed plants. I have had good results with alfalfa tea; there are recipes here on the organic care forum. The search function should turn one up for you. Essentially, you soak some alfala in a fairly large amount of water untill you can't stand the smell, then dilute and use as a soil drench. I have all but given up on bareroots--body bags as they are called on this forum. They might do well in cold climates, but in our warm springs, the tops are happily growing while the roots are still dormant. Some expert CA gardeners still buy them and report good results, but I have found I prefer ownroot plants. And do check out the website for Sequoia Nursery. World renowned breeder Ralph Moore, from Visalia, CA, has introduced wonderful cultivars which do particularly well in warm climates. At $12.50 each for his newest floribundas plus shipping to your location, you will still pay less than at your local garden center for a far superior plant. I have also learned to plant in fall and winter, and never later than April. Unfortunately, what is sold at one's local garden center is not necesarily what grows well in one's local climate. I, and many other gardeners, have to do our own research to learn about what we can and can't grow. You might want to visit one of the splendid public gardens in S. CA. to see what kind of roses you might like to try. I am partial to Noisettes and Teas, but this is a matter of taste....See MoreKphite
Comments (17)beachlily, Pat did warn against using too high a concentration for foliar spray. He said it will turn the foliage white and shortly afterward it will die. Thanks lalalandwi for the article, I had not seen it before. From the article, I think K-Phite would be better used against rot. Nancy does use Nickel Plus, and it is being touted as a very good rust preventative, especially when used with a systemic fungicide. Dan Trimmer recently spoke to our club and he is using Nickel Plus in combination with Cabrio EG. Then rotating with Bayleton 50 and Nickel Plus. He said he is able to reduce his spraying to monthly, even during rust season and it is very effective. I have ordered some Nickel Plus. I currently use Cabrio EG and rotate Bayleton 50, each time mixed with a water conditioner and Contact fungicide. I looked up Clevis. Myclobutanil (Eagle), is the systemic fungicide in Clevis. Myclobutanil has not proved very effective against daylily rust. However, the contact in this mixture, mancozeb with zinc is a very good contact fungicide. It's also a point of argument as to whether the products touted to prevent disease by improving immune systems are effective against daylily rust. Rust is a parasite, not a disease and prefers vigorous, growing plants to feed on. I think that may be why it is most active during the high growth periods of daylilies. Ed...See Morecrown rot and southern blight Sclerotium Rolfsii
Comments (4)Search this forum for "Southern Blight." This is what I've posted earlier: Southern Blight is caused by the fungus known as Sclerotium rolfsii. Flutolanil is a relatively new fungicide (last 6 years)that has proven to be an effective prevention and curative of plants with the disease. Many fungicides are now available which contain flutolanil (in various concentrations) but not all are labelled for use on ornamentals. Some identical products, such as Scotts Contrast 70WSP and ProStar 70WP, are identical but sold under different labels. Here are some links which may be helpful. This first article by Iowa State University introduces the reader to this fungus as found on hostas and mentions the fungicide flutolanil: http://www.extension.iastate.edu/Publications/SUL8.pdf The next link is the label on Scotts Contrast 70WSP. You can see that it's for treating (preventative and curative) the fungus Sclerotium rolfsii, and that it's labelled for use on ornamentals: http://www.scottsprohort.com/_documents/tech_sheets/H4586_Contrast_95216.pdf This last link is for Bayer ProStar 70WP, which is also labelled for Sclerotium rolfsii: http://www.cdms.net/ldat/ld24E001.pdf For anyone who has battled Southern Blight before, I would recommend thoroughly cleaning their beds in the fall, making sure their hostas are planted high in the ground (mounded up rather than in a hole), and that their hosta garden receives adequate ventilation (trim tree branches up, etc.). I also think that applying the Contrast or ProStar to the affected areas in early spring as the hostas are just popping up is a good preventative for dealing with the problem later on in the summer. Hope this helps for everyone who is trying to find ways to deal with Southern Blight. Don...See Moredonrawson
15 years agodonrawson
15 years ago
Jennifer Schwarz
15 years agoesudina
15 years agoElaineW
13 years agodickmc
11 years ago
Steve Massachusetts
11 years agoUser
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11 years agoCindy
11 years ago
zkathy z7a NC
9 years ago
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