I suppose I could do bush beans when the peas are done and forget the trellis entirely, because I know they don't take as long, but I do love my pole beans. I grow them every year and the neighbors love them too, since I usually have enough to share. The space where the deer ate the other peas doesn't really have a support tall enough for the pole beans, but I could rig something I suppose. Of course, there's still the deer issue. That space is actually a clothesline pole (abandoned) in my yard, while the garden area is closer to the house and the critters think that middle of the yard area is their own private buffet. Perhaps I'll try both? Plant beans where the deer ate the peas and down among the peas in the garden area. That way I'll get them somewhere - and maybe more than I need.

A quick google showed johnnyseeds had black jet. It said you can choose organic or non-organic. Victory seeds was sold out of most of its soy beans. Victory's site noted that it's a tough year for soy, and that too many sources are gmo. Black soybeans are also low in carbs.

All bets are off for green house or house grown plants. For open field growing. All fruits are perennials and most vegetables are annuals or biennials. There are many tropical perennials in the vegetable group but in most of North American , they are grown as annuals. That includes fruiting vegetables like tomatoes and peppers and root vegetables like sweet potatoes. Kale will go until it sends up a seed head, which normally happens in the spring ( increasing daylight) It will stand mild freezes but not hard frozen ground. Peas (Pisum) like cool damp weather. tolerate frost but not hard freezes. Beans go down with the first frost. In the south heat can be a problem in midsummer for many crops, but should not bother you in New York State. I doubt that you ever see 30 or more days of triple digit temps. There are many annual flowers, even perennials have their season. I doubt that you have roses blooming in january unless you are using a green house. In general tho, treat your vegetables as you would annual flowers and you will be ok.

I would recommend against it for saving the seed. Being LousianaGardener says they are still moist, I'm assuming they are not at the end stages of ripeness. If they are moist, they will become shriveled and be of no use for next year. Now if the seeds were almost ripe with an outer shell that was starting to dry and the cowpeas were pretty firm and almost ripe. I would say give it a shot. The germination rate would be lower, but you would have some successful germination next year. So waiting just a little longer on the pods on the plants is so worth it for saving the seeds. Remy