I looked at mix and came up with an 1.68>EC>1.48 based on info I use dicking around with my own recipes. So I would say the EC = 1.6 is probably close enough, which is the claim on the label, but personally put closer to EC = 1.5 mS/cm. If you want to use your meter as the primary tester then, "ppm numbers" are calibrated to: 145 ppm H2O source 985 ppm fertilizers (all) 1130 ppm EC of working solution As already mentioned by others, ppm is not straightforward as a quantitative measure if you are just monitoring the evolution of nutrient strength with a conductance tester. But if you get reproducable results you can just use it in that way and control your nutrient strength based on your tester. When you learn more about EC, the conversion factor for this fresh, uneaten solution based on my 1.5 estimate is that your tester has applied a 660 factor to the EC to display ppm. So if you just want the EC, for this mixture, based on the assumption of an accurate 'calibration run' above: Makes your water have an EC about 0.22 and the meter is showing 1130 ppm for what I believe is close to a 1.72 EC working solution. EC = 1.5 ferts. + 0.22 source water. You can figure out the conversion factor if you want to use 1.6 in the same way, it will be like 6% off. You can check the calibration by dissolving 3.79 grams of dry table salt (NaCl) into a gallon of water and noting how close it is to 1000 ppm or 1320 ppm.

Hey there Adriana, Thanks for the link to Alabama Hydro. I have the Quick Dip Nutrient Meter, but it reads, "442", "KCL", and "uS" (which I believe is microsiemens). I have heard that the 442 is good for testing pond water with fish and plants, and KCL is potassium chloride. I have no clue which one to use for testing my Millennium nutrients. I try to keep the blinking LED's in the middle, but peppers or tomatoes require higher levels. Any advice from other hydro gardeners? Thanks, Jason

You can use tanks 8"x48" (0.7 cuft per)tanks, or could go to the larger size of 10"x54" (1.5cuft). Is your plumbing 3/4" at the softener? Have you considered a carbon prefilter?

newtosd, To achieve success treating problem water one gets the results of a comprehensive water test and THEN selects and sizes the equipment based on those results, plumbing requirements, and water usage... not the other way around. When treating well water it is ALWAYS advisable to have the water tested by a certified lab and not to rely on quickie water tests from Sears or a water softener company that won't be as accurate (and possibly not as competent) as from a certified independent lab. When you have the results of a comprehensive water test then we can speak intelligently to your water treatment needs. You'd also be wise to get at least two other water treatment companies in there to quote you. Make sure you include at least one local independent water treatment pro because Culligan may be over-selling you.