Hydroponic Nutrients for Tomato Questions

9 years ago

Hi,

Trying to grow Hydroponic Tomatoes in my basement. First crop was a loss, but I learned a lot. Second crop was doing much better until this week.

Four plants in Dutch Bato Buckets I have a good number of blossoms and have had good success converting the blooms to small tomatoes with an electric toothbrush. I had about 20 small tomatoes growing well when suddenly, seven of the largest developed Blossom End Rot. The largest being the size of a large green olive.

I know the first thought is Calcium deficiency. I am using Reverse Osmosis water, the three part General Hydroponics Flora Series along with their CaliMagic additive. To ten gallons of RO water, I added:

Flowering & Fruiting (1100-1500ppm)
Water (Gal) 10
Calmag (ml) 38
FloraMicro (ml) 100
FloraGro (ml) 50
FloraBloom (ml) 150

I also use the CaliMagic as a foliar spray once per week.

Questions:

1) Looking at the nutrient formula, does this look like I should have enough Calcium?

2) I've noticed something interesting. When I add PH UP to the nutrient reservoir, I usually add 10ml at a time diluted with another 90 ml of RO water. Then I "cast" it across the surface of the nutrient solution. I've noticed a white cloud that develops, but quickly dissipates. Is this normal? Or, could it be some nutrients precipitating out of solution?

3) When I first mix the nutrients, I dip a quart out in a glass measuring cup. Its the color of tea. After about 2-3 days, I check it again, and its colorless liquid? Is this normal?

4) I am running a twelve hour light cycle with three x fifteen minute feedings per day. Lights go on at 6am and I feed at 6am, 11:30am, and 5pm. My thinking is I should only feed during daylight hours and evenly space around the twelve hour period. Does this sound correct?

5) Has anyone else had this problem and what was your solution?

Thanks,

Mike

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Comments (6)

73dave
9 years ago
Hi Mike.

There have been many heated discussions on the tomato forum about BER and its causes. Calcium deficiency is one aspect. They also mention tomato variety and weather conditions as factors.

I use calcium nitrate as part of my nutrient mix as a source for both
calcium and nitrogen.

One thing I do that has helped is to remove the blossom from the bottom of the newly formed tomato. The longer it remains on the
tomato, the more chance for BER, for me. Can't say it's
a total cure but it seems to help.

I believe nutrient precipitation is caused by mixing the nutes in the
wrong order. My bag has a specific order to follow for mixing.

I posted a link to the Tomato Forum

Dave

Here is a link that might be useful: BER on Tomato Forum
easygreenus
Original Author
9 years ago
I mix the nutrients in the order recommended by General Hydroponics. Its when I add PH UP that I see the white cloud in the nutrient solution that makes me think something bad is happening.
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cole_robbie
9 years ago
Although it is displayed as a calcium deficiency, it is inconsistent moisture that causes BER. Either too much or too little will cause similar symptoms. With plants in soil it comes from drying out too much. With hydro, I think it is usually from the roots being too saturated and rotting. When the roots die, they are unable to uptake the calcium, thus the deficiency.

Look at your roots. They are probably brown and fall apart with a light tug. If so, you need more air and less water in the buckets.
easygreenus
Original Author
9 years ago
Cole_Robbie,

Thanks for the suggestion. I'm using Dutch Bato Buckets
and hydroton pellets for the grow medium. I'll try to pull some
of the hydroton away from the roots to see their condition.

Inconsistent moisture? I have lights on 12 hours per day: 6am
to 6pm. I water three times per day for 15 minutes only
during "daytime" hours, so 6am, 11:30am, and 5:00pm. There is a 13 hour period with no fresh nutrients.

My observation of hydroton pellets is the ones two inches
deep stay damp for a long time and the Dutch Buckets have
a reservoir of nutrients in the bottom.

Is my watering schedule the problem?

Thanks,

Mike
easygreenus
Original Author
9 years ago
Hi,

I just pulled a bunch of hydronton out of one of the Dutch
buckets to check the roots. As I expected, the hydronton just
an inch below the surface was damp. Its been almost 11 hours
since the last feeding.

Roots for just a little off white. I did break some of the roots
pulling handfuls of hydronton out, but tugging gently on
the attached roots did not break them. They also smelled
pretty good. No rotting smell.

I have a large airstone in the nutrient tank that bubbles
24x7. I also add 4ml of 35% food grade H2O2 per gallon
once per week. I had a black mold problem a couple of
weeks ago and the H2O2 fixed the problem. The 4ml
per gallon is to maintain sanitation and add extra oxygen.
I maintain the nutrient temps between 68 - 71 degrees.

One concern I've had that may be related. I use 4 inch rings,
which after getting clogged, pours nutrients two inches away
from the stem, but does not cover much of the total surface
area of the Dutch Bucket. As a result, the roots are not
spreading out much further then 3-4 inches from the stem.
Once per day I manually scoop nutrients from the reservoir
and wet the hydroton across the full surface of the Dutch
Bucket.

Mike
cole_robbie
9 years ago
Maybe use bigger rings? It does sound like you have inconsistent moisture in at least some of the hydroton. Roots grow into it when you wet it by hand, then they die when it dries out. My tomatoes in soil do the same thing in my high tunnel when it rains outside - the roots grow outside the bed into the wet soil, then die when it dries out and I get BER.

I don't have much experience with dutch buckets, but couldn't you run them 24/7? The hydroton should be enough surface area to provide aeration around the roots. And the more you move your reservoir solution, the more aerated it stays. You wouldn't need the air pump any more.

Hydroponic Nutrients for Tomato Questions

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Hydroponic Nutrients for Tomato Questions

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