Try and distinguish between the new growth and the oldest leaves, especially on artichokes. As long as the rhizomes stay healthy, the leaves & fruit will eventually come, no matter how ratty any one leaf looks. Transplant shock can be rough and produce stress signs in all plants, but it's best to wait it out a bit and see if the new growth recovers. Splashing soil up on the leaves while watering can produce yellow & black spotting too, it's one of my biggest challenges, as a moment of garden ADHD while watering means I've just splattered an entire row of seedlings with soilborne fungi and bacteria. It's often localized and never spreads beyond the affected leaf, except on my solanums (tomato, eggplant, potatoes, ...) it can mean I've just sent early blight everywhere, as I can't seem to get that disease out of my garden ever since my Home Depot tomatoes were infested. Whiteflies leaving your nursery-bought plants is a huge problem, it's illegal for the nursery to sell you infested plants. Get a refund and/or find another nursery. I rarely use box stores anymore, their pest prevention is weak (at best).

Looks like dollar spot to me. Symptoms/Signs: Small (1-3 inches diameter), brown to straw-colored patches of dead grass will develop. Irregular, light tan lesions with distinct brown borders will be present on the leaves at the outside edge of the patch. The small individual patches do not expand in size, but as the number of patches increase, they may merge together to form larger patches. White, cottony mycelia may be observed in early morning hours when dew is present. Below is a great link for Florida Lawns, You'll want to bookmark this one. LOOK in the disease management sections for pics and control of Dollar Spot, Gray Leaf Spot, and Cercospora Leaf Spot. All of these have similar characteristics, but different control options, so be sure you know which disease you have before any treatment. Your best bet would be to take a few of the effected blades and roots to your local extension office and have them diagnose your problem for FREE. Here is a link that might be useful: University of FLORIDA

I agree with Keriann. Yes, you should really let them dry out. Matter of fact, once my seedlings are as big as yours, I let them dry out pretty much all the way before I water again. You can tell they need watered when you pick up the flat and it feels light as a feather. Then after you water, it's much heavier. Your method of bottom watering is quite unique, I must say. I think that most folks bottom water the way I do, which is to say setting the cells or cups into a tray of water and letting the plant absorb as much as it wants until you see moisture on the surface of the soil (usually takes anywhere from 5-20 min). Now, I can't say for sure what positive or negative effects your method of watering might have, except that it sure sounds like a pain in the hiney to me, and I somehow doubt that the soil is getting properly saturated. You want to simulate mother nature; a soaking rain. Then you want to let the soil dry out. That's how it is in nature. Roots need water yes, because the plant needs water, but then they need to dry out and get oxygen. Damp soil all the time = no oxygen to the roots. Now, I can't say for certain what part of your program is causing your issues, but I would start bottom watering them as described by letting them absorb water sitting in a tray. I think you will find that using this method, you should only have to water every 3-4 days, or less. I would lay off the ferts for a while, and then make sure only to fertilize when the soil is already damp, or you will burn the roots. I just mix the fert with water, then pour into a tray and bottom water as usual. Give this a shot, see if that doesn't help.

Hi Guys- I live in North Berkeley and all the plants in one of my raised beds look exactly like Irene's. What stinks is that I had first planted two plants from Spiral Gardens Nursery, who grow their own starts, and those did great, even in all the rain we got. Then I planted three plants that I got from Forni-Brown Nursery in Calistoga, which I am almost certain they grow their own starts (they sell mostly to the local restaurants in Napa Valley), and those did great. Then two weeks after that I went to Berkeley Hort and bought more plants, including some sourced from Sweetwater Nursery. While at Berkeley Hort I came across a Mortgage Lifter from Sweetwater, noticed that it was spotted, and brought it to the attention of a sales guy at Berkeley Hort and asked him if there were problems. He very patiently explained the "cold damage" and I believed him. Normally I'm totally paranoid, but I have shopped at Berkeley Hort for five years and never had any problems with plants there, and I consider their staff to be top notch. I also have bought lots of stuff from Sweetwater without a problem in the past. So I thought I should get over my paranoia and went ahead and got some plants there, including that spotty Mortgage Lifter. Planted those, rains came, and a week later, EVERYTHING in that bed had spots on them. Obviously this is all just my observations, but the bottom line is, I should have gone with my instinct and just left that Mortgage Lifter alone. Now it's a waiting game. I finally got to the point of not stripping any more leaves, even if spotted. It's now an experiment. The new growth has been pretty normal, no spots. I've drenched with Serenade twice, but it's expensive, so I've been using a baking soda/oil/castile soap "natural fungicide)" concoction. I can't tell if it's helping or if it's the dry weather that has slowed the leaf spots. I imagine that if I get more fruit set, the plants will only stress and get worse, and who knows if anything will properly ripen. I'm just hoping to get even a small harvest. We'll see. Good luck to you guys and hoping for the best for everyone!