There are probably lots of them but I've been using the Botanicare Pure Blend stuff in my DWC for some time now and been very happy. Full strength for tomatoes and peppers, for lettuce and other green leafy things I use it at half strength. They don't claim to be truly organic but they do claim to be natural and they list their source materials. Here is a link that might be useful: Botanicare

Walter; I am growing bell peppers in a small ebb n flo in my office window. during vegative growth, I generally keep the EC at around 2.0-2.4 which (according to the stick) is approximately 1500-1700, so your 1100 sounds a bit low to me. I started my plants approx august 20. I have one that is very leggy, the other is short and stout. the latter is about 8" tall and has 6 fruits. the largest fruit being about 1.5" between flower and stem. I am currently clipping flowers to limit quantity and focus on size. the leggy one only just recently started to flower, and I haven't seen any fruit set yet. I generally keep my EC as stated above w/ pH of 5.8-6.0. I use general hydronics per their label, except in flowering I'll increase the micro a bit and / or lessen the grow. My experience with these plants and the ones I've grown in the yard is they are not very large plants, so I would expect 8" to 1 foot to be about max height, especially since you're using artificial light. Greystoke; I'm working on just such a system now. I'm thinking two tanks. the one at the bottom catches system runoff, the system at the top is a gravity feed reservoir. you just have to dump the bottom tank into the top tank each day.(muscle versus electricity, has to be some kind of power input) this system will also require some kind of check valve to keep the ebb n flo starting and stopping throughout the day. I haven't got the valve part fully worked out yet, but when I do I'll let you know. I believe it will somehow incorporate the smartvalve walter mentioned in his post though. Here is a link that might be useful:

Yes, naturally I've thought about what the difference between incandescent and metal halide (and/or HPS, florescent) before, even when the lumen output is exactly the same. But from what I've read that's actually about the spectrum of light it produces that makes the difference. So naturally I wouldn't be using incandescent light to grow plants with. With that in mind, wouldn't it be safe to assume that the "par" and "mole" output of a 400 watt MH would be higher than that of a 100 watt MH (assuming it's measured at the same distance). At the same time the lumen output of the 400 watt MH would be higher than the 100 watt MH (respectively). One thing I haven't exactly found an answer for is, why the lumen drop is significantly more the farther away it is for florescent lights verses MH or HPS. What I've concluded is that it most likely has to do with the wattage. Kind of like water coming out of a hose, the higher the pressure, the farther the water will reach. And just by using more florescent lights to increase the overall wattage, that wont increases the wattage (pressure) of each individual bulb (therefore, light intensity of that bulb). I'm particularly interested in LED lighting. And again here is a place that I have not yet found any reliable info from researchers and/or university's on the subject yet. And I recently read a news story about a new high intensity LED lighting, but after over an hour of trying to find anything else about that new "high intensity LED light" I found nothing. I used different keywords, and not even refining the results to .edu sites (but including any sight). All I found was a a link to the manufacture, and even their info is extremely limited. Here are the links Recent advancements in LED technology This supposed to be the manufacture I'm mostly interested on LED because of the reduced electrical costs. I would like to learn enough about them where I can build my own lights. But I have never found an answer to my first question, is there a particular type of LED needed (not referring to color). Or will any blue/red ect. LED work. I know what manufactures will say, they don't want you to build your own, so getting the truth from them would be extremely rare. My guess is that not all blues/reds etc. are the same and that there is a specific spectrum/s of LED color needed to work correctly. Anyhow I have not had time to read that document I printed out yet. It's on my desk in my room right now, but I have something else I need to complete before I can concentrate on it. That will most likely be in about 2-3 days.

1100ppm with only 400w? holy cow. No wonder your stuff wont flower. I've never needed more than 800ppm and I use twice as much light. Strange that you mix product lines like that. The plant sets flowers as soon as it reaches sexual maturity. For a capsicum, that is the time where the single main stem branches into two stems. It will set at least one flower in the crotch of those two stems, called the crown flower. It will set at least one flower every node past that. Aborting a flower is different from not throwing a flower in the first place at all. Back off on the nutes and see how it does. My guess is it will flower like mad once all that nitrogen is out of its system. I'm a minimalist, though. I dont subscribe to the theory of feeding it until it burps then backing off. Consider switching to the Pure Blend Pro. Peppers aren't as sensitive as tomatoes to C deficiency so you may not even need the Cal-Mag Plus (although I use it anyway, mostly for the Mg)