I know it's hard to believe...almost everyone in my neighborhood waters every day, some twice a day, but I water once a week and my yard looks better than any of them. Most of my neighbors have big weed problems because of daily watering. Do a search of the forum and you will see LOTS of posts on the subject, and the conclusion is always the same. Here is a quote I lifted from another post: "Frequent (daily), light waterings promote shallow root systems that do not result in healthy turf. To develop a deep root system, water your lawn when the first signs of wilt occur. When the lawn needs water, you'll see spots in the lawn that turn bluish-gray, footprints that remain in the grass long after being made, and many leaf blades folded in half lengthwise. Apply only enough water to wet the soil in the rootzone. 3/4 to 1 inch of water is generally sufficient. (see link below) Do not water the lawn again until signs of wilt occur again. This technique works regardless of turfgrass species, soil type, season, or other environmental conditions. It may take up to 6 weeks to condition your turf to survive several days to a week without wilting between irrigations or rainfall. During this time the root system is developing and growing deeper into the soil. In time, your lawn will establish a more uniform appearance with less thatch and a deeper root system" And a follow up post: "In other words, you want to gradually work up to only once or twice a week watering, instead of three times a day. The total for a week (including rain) should be 1 inch. You can see how long it takes your sprinklers to deliver 1 inch by putting some tuna cans on the lawn. Don't be surprised if it takes hours. Oh, and the best time to water is early morning. Afternoon is OK, but more water will be wasted due to evaporation. Never water in the evening or at night; it encourages disease."

Definitely rootstock if it's from below the graft. If there is no cultivar above the graft, better to just replace the tree. You can always try to draft, but then, you'd need to know how to graft , and have access to clean budwood. Not hard to learn, but it's a bit of a process. For most folks, simply easier to replant. Patty S.

Wow, there's a weed I wouldn't mind being overrun with! Doesn't grow where I live unfortunately. Wisteria can be one of the most beautiful vines in the world when properly managed. By the sound of it yours has been abandoned. Rather than kill it, what about hiring a specialist to come in and prune it and teach you how to look after it. Try doing a search for a Master Gardener group in your area. If you let us know where you live I will try and find some resources for you.

I know this is really old, but I just found it now. The pictured plants look nothing like the aegopodium I have in my yard, but I have the variegated version so might not be able to recognize the plain green one. An easy way to distinguish mine from QAL is the height (along with variegation). Aegopodium is quite short - 8" out of bloom, maybe 15" when blooming. Queen Anne's lace is TALL - I have 4 foot stalks and flowers in one of my perennial beds and they are one of the weeds wrecking it. It's fall now and they've gone to seed, so the seeds are sticking to my clothes like crazy. I have found NOTHING so far telling how to get it out of a flower bed. Hand pulling? Yeah, if you can recognize them when they're small. Herbicide? Not when they are in the middle of my irises and daylilies. Mowing? Uh... no. If I can yank them all out this fall - which would be tough because the only way is to dig up all the irises, daylilies and other plants in the bed - I suspect a pre-emergent herbicide might be the best thing, because undoubtedly a lot of seeds will fall into the soil while the plants are being removed. By the way, aegopodium can be controlled by putting metal edging underground around them, as it does spread by roots/rhizomes, but while the variegated variety is gorgeous, plain green would be deadly dull and boring.