Hummingbirds use nectar for energy, not nutrition. They gain nutrients from eating tiny insects. When you see hummingbirds hovering and facing different directions or aimlessly zipping short distances, they're probably snatching flying insects. Their bills open and snap shut on the insects faster than the human eye can see, but it can be filmed. Amazingly, the lower bill actually bends quite substantially while they're doing this. Hummingbird feeders bring the birds into view, which many people enjoy. Feeders are entertainment for us. If you have sufficient flowers to attract the birds you want to see, nobody will quarrel with it. Flower nectar contains traces of things other than sugar, but it's not necessary to attempt to exactly duplicate flower nectar to make an effective feeder, and neither do feeders interfere with the birds' willingness or ability to use other sources. Some people have mistakenly added other things to feeder nectar in an attempt to make it more attractive, but hummingbird experts and banders -- to a man or woman -- recommend plain sugar and water. Anecdotal evidence suggests the birds can tell the difference between cane sugar and beet sugar, and they prefer cane. Most experts recommend a ratio of 1:4 or 1:3 sugar to water, measured by volume. Anything in this area will work. I know a famous bander and author in Louisiana who has standardized on 1:3, and tests show that birds are attracted to higher concentrations. Most hummfeeders use 1:4 -- a balance of attractiveness to the birds with economy for you. Feeder nectar does not lead to diabetes in hummingbirds. They naturally seek sources of concentrated sugar, and they regulate their behavior to get the amount they need. Their physiology is different from humans, and concepts gained from promoters of healthy living are not appropriately applied to hummingbirds.

that would depend on where the nest is. if in the ground she'd have a good chance for survival & might stay put. if in an open nest or say an abandoned bird house she'd need to seek a warmer location. if you can locate the nest destroy it after spraying them or when they've gone dormant. if in the ground get a gallon of a good pesticide & mix it in a bucket with some liquid dish soap & pour it into the hole with a funnel. do this after they've gone dormant or if you have a problem nest during the warmer weather pour the mix in at night. wear long pants & sleeves, a hat, gloves, & cover your face with a bandana. pour it quickly & run like h**l. I know some will poo-poo this but gasoline or diesel fuel in a ground nest works too. if you're not up to it call a pro. yellow jackets & hornets can be quite aggressive . anyone in the St Louis area can contact me for swarm captures & bee removals from buildings & trees. this would be for honeybees only. 99.999 % of the calls I get after mid august are usually yellow jackets.

I doubt she is having a problem with Honey bees, which are the ones mysteriously disapearing. If they are honey bees , I'm with you. Let's feed them too. Give them their own feeders! :-) My guess is she has yellowjackets. She needs to make sure her feeders aren't leaking, do away with the yellow, and make sure there are bee guards. I mostly have problems with the occasional wasp at the feeders and ants under the feeders, if there is the slightest spill. By the way, my feeders have always had the yellow parts. I haven't had enough problem with bees or wasps, to bother changing to the new way.

I would say it is a type of leaf beetle,family chrysomelidae. Most species feed on a very specific type of tree so that would be a way of narrowing down the species, e.g., cottonwood leaf beetles feed on willow, poplar and alder (as per simon and schusters guide to insects).