Thanks everyone for your responses! techiestar: Great idea on the towel rack, and thanks so much for the photo! Much appreciated catherini: Yes, to tub or not to tub is quite a dilemma. I think I'm going to stick with the tub. Who knows? Maybe someday I'll need to soak with Epsom salts. coolbeans: I agree, I won't do #2. debbiejoy: Totally agree about having natural light in the bathroom. I'm going to switch option #3 around so that the bath is on the other wall. That way, I can have as big a window as I want. (Yes, we are putting a new window in, so we can have whatever size we like.) sandiandjerry: Yikes! I didn't notice that!!! The last thing I need is the bathroom door opening to reveal the (ta da!) toilet. mongoct: Bingo! That is precisely what I'm going to do. - - - - Again, thanks so much. Problem solved! Yaaaaaaaaay for this forum!!! (I don't know how I ever lived without it!)

Hi romy718, Here is a draft layout of my plan. Other than shifting the middle island slightly and giving it that extension on the bottom end, this is the footprint of the existing kitchen, which is dark and not optimally functional. To give you an idea of the current space, the island on the lower right (with a designation "prep sink?") is where my kitchen sink is now, which is approximately 15' away from my cook top. My oven and microwave are inserted into the top left corner taking up an inordinately large amount of counter space. By moving my sink I gain functionality, and even though I lose the upper cabinets that are on the existing wall to a new window, I gain light. By moving ovens I gain counter space. I lose my desk, but there is still a space for dropping stuff off, which will be smaller and thus I hope it will make for less of a visual eyesore. I am also most likely to use a 42" refrigerator and thus won't need the refrigerator drawers. As for size, the long refrigerator wall is ~17', the range wall is a little over 13', and the wall where the sink goes is ~12'. The bottom side opens to the family room and the lower right opens to a breakfast room, which will remain untouched. Any comments on design? I have the room for the 48" range, I'm just not sure if I want to give up that nice large oven on the 36" range. What about the oven stack right next to the fridge, versus having (left to right) fridge then pantry then oven stack then drop-off place? Thanks to all.

If you need the functionality of two ovens...whether it's b/c of different temperatures, the volume, or the types of food AND you use your MW for meal prep or cooking, then... Getting a Convection MW in place of a second oven doesn't help...if you need the MW, you don't have a second oven; if you need the second oven, then you don't have a MW Using the second oven as a warming drawer won't help b/c if you're using it as a WD then you don't have a second oven. What it will do, though, is allow you to bake/roast in it and then use it as a WD for the food you just cooked in it while the first oven is still going. We do have a WD + double oven + MW. Yes, both ovens have a "Warm" option and my MW Drawer has a "Keep Warm" option. I use the WD more than an oven as a warmer b/c it's a smaller volume to heat and uses less energy. It also has options for Crisp or Moist. However, if I have an oven already heated b/c I've just used it, I'll turn it on "Warm" and use it as a WD...assuming I don't need that oven for another item. Other than for stews, the MW's "Keep Warm" function doesn't work very well b/c it overcooks the food it's keeping warm. How often do I use them all at once? Several times a week, actually. I have Celiac Disease so I do a lot of baking, etc. and often I'm making something that I can eat similar to what everyone else is eating but I need different oven temps. Meanwhile, I'm cooking veggies in the MW and using the WD to keep the various items I've finished warm. I also do a lot of baking for events (like the 6 batches of brownies + 3 batches of cupcakes Saturday morning for our neighborhood's Block Party that afternoon) and find that having two ovens makes the job go so much faster...it allows more than one of us to be baking at the same time as well as allows us to bake more than one type of item at the same time. So, in the end, it depends on your needs. BTW...I tried a wall oven mounted under the counter prior to purchasing my appliances and found that it was even lower than the oven in a range/stove. So, before you plan for an under counter oven, go somewhere and try it out. OTOH, the top oven of a double oven set is probably too high for most people...unless you put the bottom oven just over the toe kick. I think the ideal setup is two single ovens mounted in raised cabinets...i.e., mounted so that the cabinets are 6" to 12" higher than the standard. Oh, and about the location of your WD...when polled here a couple of years ago, overwhelmingly it was found that if you had your WD near or under your cooktop, it was used. However, if it was mounted far from the cooktop or too low, it was rarely, if ever, used. The latter included WDs mounted under ovens in an oven stack. So my suggestion to you is to not put it in an oven stack; instead, mount it next to or very, very close to your cooktop.

These are the fixtures I've gotten from HD: GE Premium Fluorescent Light Fixture - only about $15, Direct Wire, Thinnest (1 1/4"), can NOT be linked, uses T5 bulbs, 18" long. BTW, I can't find any wiring or connector in the kit. Would I have to buy sth else? Xenon Premium 3 light fixture - about $49, Linkable, Plug-in connector, 2 light levels, 18" long. Considering the cost factor, the GE one is definitely better. I'm not sure if direct wiring or non-linkable would become problems when the electrician puts them in. I only need three sets so turning them on separately would be ok. Ngng, thanks very much for the pictures. I like the look and feel. I'm still surprised that fluorescent lighting can produce the warm color though, since my ceiling fluorescent is not that yellow at all. Is yours GE? I see the wiring in your picture goes on the outside of the cabinet. Looks like your rails hide the lights very well. I wonder if other electricians may drill a whole on the bottom of the cabinet and pull wiring inside. I forgot to take a look at the bottom of the new cabinets and see if the rails are tall enough to conceal the lights. Maybe that's the standard these days? If my cabinets are 33" wide, what length should I use for the undercabinet lights?