Thank You Sylvia and Ceth... Glib, I have done Decomposed Granite from the outset, so I don't know any difference, I learned before I built my beds the possibility that it enhances Clayish soils while also contributing to the soil food web, this is my initial take on it and what motivated me to try it, so far ,it has worked splendidly ;-) Decomposed granite is a rock powder and is an excellent amendment for clay soils. All rock powders are great sources of minerals and micronutrients. All growing soils need them. As the microbes and macrobes like earthworms, digest the insoluble minerals, they break down into the various soluble micronutrients that all forms of plants need. For example, limestone rocks are rich in calcium. Granite rocks are rich in potassium, etc. Seaweeds of course are the king of micronutrient fertilizers and soil amendments. There can be up to 70+ trace elements in seaweed. In locations where seaweed is not readily available; rock powders is one answer to the problem. Research continues to reveal that insoluble tiny particles like rock powder minerals, can be easily digested or absorbed via microbial activity, over time, into the anatomy of growing plants, thriving in the presence of rich organic compost. Obviously a heavy clay soil is very difficult to initially dig, whereas a sandy loam is much easier. Heavy clay soils can be improved considerably by adding a lot of sawdust and mason's sand. DO NOT use beach or river sand! Mason's sand, being crushed granite, has sharp edges and actually loosens the soil. One of the least understood aspects of gardening is that of capillary action of the garden soil. It is a proven fact that compressed earth has a better capillary action than undisturbed soil. That is why gardening books tell you never to walk between rows in a regular garden, as that encourages weed growth. And of course people are told never to step in a French Intensive bed and thus compress the soil. But the capillary action is absolutely necessary to bring water up to the roots of growing plants to promote good and deep root growth. In regular garden rows, it is easy to roll a heavy 2 or 3 inch wide weighted wheel (mounted on an axle and handle) down the row directly over the freshly planted seeds, which will then promote deep root growth along that line. The spaces between the rows are than rototilled to eliminate footprints prior to the initial watering. The basic concept of French Intensive gardening is that raised beds are created which have humus added, and the whole bed is light and fluffy to a depth of two feet to promote fantastic root growth. The beds are typically 4 feet wide and 12 or more feet long, with 3 foot paths between the beds.

Hey there. Those UT mountains in the background are killing me! Don't get a view like that in NC, but it's lush and green here. Usually yellowing is due to nitrogen deficiency or overwatering. Since it seems like you had plenty of nitrogen, I'm going to guess overwatering as well. Also plants dropping flowers can be due to overheating, and I heard it got pretty hot in your area this year. My parents live in UT, and they only water 2 to 3 times a week during ave summer weather -- more when it's over 95. I have the overwatering disease so I finally bought a cheap moisture meter at Lowes and my garden is doing great, whereas before everything was yellow. Best of luck to you!

First off, you should understand that a weed is growing there because the soil is poor and the weed has no problem pushing out any grass that wants to come in. And, if you cut a weed...and not get the root....it comes back stronger and bigger than it was before. So, when you just cut them with your mower, you are doing them a favor. You don't want to use chemicals. When I hear that from some people who I think don't realize the importance of just what chemistry has done for us I recall a well-known ad from an American company... :better things, for better living.....thru chemistry. Your wish to not use chemicals then brings up the need to learn about "organic" gardening--natural methods of controlling how your soil grows plants. That is a long-term fix. The amount of soil problems will determine what you have to do. Fist off I'd say your soil is under-nourished. You could get a soil test done. Your local state funded college extension service is your best bet or possibly the local full-service nursery may do these tests. Soil tests generally will tell you what your soil needs to perform what plants you have in mind. If you do decide the job of getting rid of the weeds by inorganic method you can resort to the use of "Roundup"...a non-selective weed killer that will kill anything and everything green. It does allow you to re-plant within a specified time--usually about 3 weeks. Other broadleafed weed killers kills most weeds, but leaves the natural grass unharmed. I would recommend you do a complete aeration of the area with a rented machine. This removes plugs which can help relieve compacted soil. Then the plugs are allowed to compost back into the soil. Overseeding of grass (you choose the proper type) followed by topping of a good topsoil or compost spread 1/2" over the entire area every spring, every fall. This builds organic matter into the soil which promotes growth of grass and other plants. Depending on the size of the area, this can be rather expensive so the need to find a trusted soil dealer comes into the picture. Then proper watering and fertilizing can help bring you the lawn you desire. Again, staying 'organic' not using chemical fertilizers, can delay your lawn result. Do some research yourself about "organic gardening" and what that entails. You may wish to re-evaluate your wish to not use chemicals. The juniper roots that are still there are sending up stems and will continue to do so for a time but eventually will die off. Just keep cutting them with the lawnmower. If you decide to sod the area, you must get rid of any grass that is there. Sod will not root if it has to fight its way past grass roots already there. Digging up the area, turning it over, you should then add at least 6" of good topsoil (compost preferably) and turn that under. Weeds can be removed as you unearth them and yes, any weed roots missed will come back. You could treat them as you see them. If hubby has a propane torch, you can burn them out. Short term methods can also employ something that burns the roots. Window glass, letting the sun d the work, laid over the area will kill the weeds in no time. Vinegar will kill weeds but will also affect nearby greenery. Overlaying of a material that prevents sunlight can also work. But this method is long-term.

Bermuda grass is an alien species bent on ruling the earth. Outside of "I say we nuke it from orbit. It's the only way to be sure." even round up doesn't kill it all. I like to make compost but I cannot make enough compost to alter my clay soil in any reasonable amount of time. I still use it, but starting a new garden bed in my Oklahoma clay needs some help and the help of the local lifeforms already in the soils. I dig in raw kitchen scraps. If I'm up to it, I wet cardboard and strip it down to pieces and add it with the compost. I haven't done anything with the grass at this point. I'm only diggin into the soil about one foot to place the compost (or as far as my strength will allow). Each week I dig out a new spot to empty my small kitchen compost into. At this time I toss in molasses either mixed in with my worm tea or just drizzle it over the compost pile. The soil microbes and life forms cannot resist molasses. Try it once and you'll see. When compost is in the ground I take the loosened dirt clods and bury the compost. Ignore the bermuda. Then, I moisten the soil in that area above the compost. Next, I place wet cardboard atop this area. Finally, if I have some mulch, I will place mulch above the top surface of cardboard to help keep it damp. I continually moisten the area if decomposition takes a long time (like in cooler weather). If it is warm spring or summer, the grubs and life forms will work that soil softening it. In no more than 3 days, the soil will be easier to work. I uncover the mound and begin pulling the bermuda - stolons and all - right out of the ground. Then, I take a shovel and dig down further sifting as the soil is more pliable and takes less work, pulling the bermuda grass and stolons along the way The life forms are not only decomposing the compost but working the soil deep beneath the new plot. The compost and molasses is the bait. I dig around the outer perimeter of this mound pulling the sod/soil up on top of the mound, stopping occasionally to remove bermuda. I work through the entire pile in this fashion where the compost is no longer icky. The icky factor depends on what I buried. I go back to those areas later. Veggies and such will be GONE in only a few days. Worms should be present at this point. The key is to attract and spring the life forms into the area to do the work for me. Then, I continue to pluck weeds and grass out of it over the course of the next few weeks. Each time the soil is softer and softer. By fall, it's ready for a good dig-till and adding rich organic materials or manure and to be overwintered with a cover crop or covered with cardboard and mulch (as described above). By fall, the bermuda is severely manageable or not present at all. Nothing can stop growth in those plots I fashioned in these areas. Expansion is slow, though. I'm not able to throw money at gardening, but this is a sure-fire method of building a wonderful compost/garden mound in my Oklahoma clay soils. By the following spring worms of enormous size should be present. If not, add more organic materials. Another way to draw the lifeforms (in addition to molasses) is laying down fresh alfalfa hay and moistening it. I discovered this accidentally. It's also a nitrogen source so don't use too much of it around your growies, lest they get burned. Aged or rotted alfalfa doesn't harm and makes a great compost additive. Use cover crops generously on these very plots to replenish. Always have something growing in them so the clay will not harden again but be selected of what you grow and when. Use dynamic accumulators, when you can. Clay has nutrients and minerals. Certain plant roots go down deep and fish these out in a superb fashion. Many of your native grasses and weeds already perform this duty and the soil would be perfect if someone had not planted bermuda or grass amongst them. Buckwheat is a good weed and grass deterrent. Alfalfa is not a good fighter of weeds, but is a good dynamic accumulator. There's nothing wrong with throwing alfalfa and buckwheat in the ground together.