Yes, pinch the gas line. Then turn the mower on the muffler side, which is opposite of the carburetor side. Then take out the bolt that holds the fuel bowl onto the carb. Inspect this bolt carefully, and using a fine semi-stiff wire (a wire tie stripped of its paper covering) and carefully poke it into anything that looks like it might be a hole, or one that is a darkish looking spot The finer hole will be the one you want make sure it is clean, but poke the bigger one, too. Then put the bolt to yer lips and blow thru it. then reinstall the bolt, set the machine back up on its wheels, wait 2 minutes, then try to start it. I Betcha it will start and stay running! Oh, don't forget to un-pinch the fuel line--might help it to start!

Tecumseh with plastic bowl - if it is flooding, at the bottom of the bowl on the side is a screw. Remove that and inside is a plastic piece, this meters the flow of fuel and if missing can explain flooding. Also carb is extruded aluminum and there is a small hole drilled in it for the bowl to breath, that could be the other cause. Lastly dirt is holding the carb needle open- hold the carb bowl in your hand off the carb and let the gas flow in and see if the bowl overflows while outside the carb. If it only runs for a sec, upon removing the screw from the bowl the plastic piece inside - get a drill and drill it just a hair larger - so far this personaly worked for me 3 for 3 of these. Do this after trying cleaning it out the same piece with a paperclip. Sorry all if parts of my post are a repeat. ihwall50- black smoke, too much gas from dirty air filter, try banging the filter on the street curb knocking dirt loose and try again. if it improves, get a new filter.

That might be true, on the vibration. This engine is 24 years old lol; it's still running strong when I can keep everything firmly connected. I HAVE had issues with the engine mount bolts coming loose and have to tighten them up regularly. Discovered when we inherited the tractor from hubby's grandma that the engine was being held to the frame with only three of four bolts, and those just regular bolts, not the OEM engine bolts, if it makes any difference. Got four OEM B&S engine bolts on eBay, and the lock washer that was supposed to go on one of them, but that one somehow came loose and fell out someplace. So back to a regular bolt in that hole. But I periodically tighten those bolts because they do seem to work loose; there is definitely some vibration going on but don't know if it's related to the PTO or not. No problems engaging or disengaging; no unusual vibration. So probably a good case for the carb bolts working loose; once they loosened (before I discovered the problem with them and the engine mount bolts) maybe they started wearing on the bolt hole threads??? Anyway, back to current problem. The bottom screw on the carb mount still can be tightened I think, but the muffler shield on top of the muffler directly below the carb is in the way making it REALLY difficult to access or pull the bolt; you can barely work a screwdriver in there to turn it and you have to bend the back edge of the shield down to do that. I think I need to use Locktite on both bolts though. I tried re-doing the Locktite on the top bolt and tightening the bottom one, and it held for all of about 5-10 minutes of running. After that I ended up bungee-cording the air cleaner to the engine to hold it against the engine block just to finish mowing, but by the time I was done both bolts were loose again. The carb mounts to the left side of the engine, btw. I can link you to a diagram if you like. (see below) I used the same tube of locktite I had from three years ago (still pretty liquid) but maybe it was no good? It was the removable type of Locktite and I am wondering if I should try something with a little more hold? Would JB Weld be better? I noticed it did grip the bolt in the hole better once it began to set but was afraid to tighten it down too much; just turned it till it felt like it was catching a bit and then let it set. Otherwise the bolt would just spin in the hole. I have gotten some more OEM bolts to try new ones but they are shorter than the bolt I used last; last time I just used an ordinary bolt that was a little longer than the original, and it did the trick, but this time I used the same longer bolt and it let go, after applying Locktite, tightening as best I could, and letting it cure 24 hrs before running. Should I replace the carb mount gasket again too? Seems to be ok but I haven't pulled it; I replaced it last go-around. The mower starts and runs just fine if I can just keep the darn carb on the engine! Here is the link showing the carb and air cleaner assembly for my B&S engine, no. 280707-0411-02. If you look at the carb bottom left, you can see the attachment point (intake??) you can also see the bracket I was referring to (no. 662 in the chart). Just a strip of metal that attaches to the little box with the choke linkage on it. Doesn't really support the carb-to-engine connection; the whole unit including aircleaner and bracket moves, I think. It's screwed down pretty tightly regardless. Carb and aircleaner assembly B & S 280707-0411-02 Thanks for any suggestions or advice!

My bet is there is still ice or a fastner holding the impeller. Maybe damage was also done to the belt as it was attempting to turn the auger pulley. If the impeller is free, you should be able to turn the big pulley-which in turn should turn the auger. Maybe even take a bar or pipe and a hammer thru the chute and tap on the impeller (with reasonable force) to see if it will break free. If you would have damaged the gear box, they don't as a rule bind up-rather strip the worm gear inside- tho it is possible. Good luck.