Root Pruning

11 years ago

Thought I might add my root pruning photos from today. First image is the surface after I stripped a few inches of soil and roots.
Ed

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Comments (6)

Gutzmek
Original Author
11 years ago
Here is the root ball after I removed it. Looks a little congested.
Gutzmek
Original Author
11 years ago
Lastly, I chopped out the bottom quarter of roots. Added some fresh soil in the bottom of the pot. Then I added more to the top and sides. And yes, we did this in the kitchen on a tarp, as It is below freezing outside.
Ed
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Deciduous pruning and root pruning
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I excluded the ginkgo because I've read they don't heal branch or trunk chopping so I assume I'm left with only tip pruning to maintain size and clip and grow to train branches. I believe I remember hawthorn are best to be left to only pruning either roots or the top growth in one season. This could be me not remembering something correctly as I can't find the references to this now. Too much information read.. not enough retained. My head 'splode! With the juniper being substantially more vigorous than most evergreens will they take to hard pruning on top and root pruning in the same season or do they fall in the same category as most other evergreen species? And should this training be done in the spring with the deciduos trees or in full summer as recommended by Vance Wood on Scots and Mugo pines? I've been making a reference/journal on what to do and when to do it with different species.. this info is helping to fill in some important blanks. Thanks again for any help, it's extremely appreciated.
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root pruning, root regeneration, and future stability
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In general, the bigger the tree, the more likely root pruning has been used. 2 and 3" stock is barely large enough to qualify...the only root pruning that has been done was in production of the liner used as a transplant to be grown on and harvested ata certain size. Start getting into 5 and6" stock, and larger, specifically with direct spade where the spader has his own field, and there you see much more root pruning. Fancy term for what amounts to transolantung a tree a time or two around your iwn field...or simply dropping the spade blades and retracting them without lifting the tree. As to the original question, eventually the root system will develop the primary, secondary, tertiary, etc. roots become the anchoring system for a large tree. This is rarely talked about because what is talked about us the much more fibrous root system thst is developed in the short term...which is what you want to create a plant more likely to survive a transplant. But every time you handle something, you add to the cost. So people create a narrative that they feel explains why they do what they do. A lot of nursery growers are better at explaining what they do in technical terms (what they care about) than what it means for you in practical terms (what you care about).
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overwintering/pruning/root pruning
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Comments (21)
I think it would be smart to take a branch cutting and root it in new clean soil. this will give new roots and I believe a much better chance to live over the winter. if done properly it should be done with no new bugs being brought into the house. the plant can then be grown all winter and put outside in the spring as a very big transplant. the problem with keeping old plants is that the roots get old and lose their health. then the plant goes down hill. the old plant usually bring in all kinds of bugs that go wild indoors etc. all this can be avoided with some care.
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Root prune? Or prune for shape?
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Comments (1)
Hi, 10 people will prolly give you 10 different versions, but IMHO I'd also be tempted to leave the branched you first picked (1st pic). It has a nice little movement to it. But you would have to try and get branches all along the trunk. So what I would try is to bring down the height a little bit - from the top there's a "v" shaped twigs, then a twig to the left and then another "v" shape. I would prune to that 2d "v" after getting rid of all the other branches to try an bring some budding all along the the trunk. The generally accepted practice is the first branch should be 1/3 the height of the tree so I would keep all buds above that line. Then I would let it grow out this year. I would let the lower branch grow with out trimming as the truck would get thicker below these branches and also the lowest branches are usually thicker than the upper branches. Short of putting it in the ground to thicken up, putting it into a larger pot will also help thicken it up. In the 2d pic the first thing I thought of is Broom Style. If it were mine, I would cut all the branches in half to encourage budding and more twigs. Just my 2¢.
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RetiredFlorida
11 years ago
Nice visual tutorial Ed. I've never kept potted plants long enough to do this,haha. Thanks for posting.
Gutzmek
Original Author
11 years ago
Ya, ya Darren. Not all of us live in the tropics. Wife would kill me if I moved there. I would have the entire outside covered in plants.
Ed
RetiredFlorida
11 years ago
Awww Ed, I wasn't implying because I live here in florida and put everything in the ground rather, everything we've ever kept indoors eventually was neglected. Don't ask me why?

Trying to be good and trade for all my acquisitions now because I have been spending probably too much on new plants.....yeah, it is a problem. She did "put her foot down" on an area near our front door that she doesn't want planted as it would block our view of the local exercise trail.

Darren
Gutzmek
Original Author
11 years ago
I am with you there Darren. Its the middle of winter, and I pre-ordered 2 more tropical hibs to be delivered this spring. Wife and I constantly debate the plants. She is getting into passion plants, and this is helping. As I have no experience, I can only support her. We have several house plants, violets, cacti, etc. For me it has a different meaning. I spent years training to be a killer, now I nurture, and it is soothing. But I digress. Will have plants ready to ship this spring.
Ed

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Root Pruning

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Root Pruning

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