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Deciduous pruning and root pruning

17 years ago

I'm looking forward to early spring with a most likely unhealthy dose of anticipation. The only tree I have that is actually "styled" (using the term loosely) is a sad but recovering ficus mallsai. I do however have a sizable amount of nursery stock with which I am looking to rectify this situation. Other than one yew and two juniper all of the outdoor stock is deciduous and includes acer ginnala, diospyros viginiana, larix laricina, prunus maackii, chaenomeles "Jet Trail", ginkgo biloba, ulmus (americana and parvifolia), cotoneaster "Tom Thumb", and hopefully by spring will also add local celtis, ostryra virginiana, morus, or crataegus.

I think I have a bit of an understanding of how the spring growth cycle works and therefore an idea of when to prune different parts of the plant. However, logic isn't all it's cracked up to be so I wanted to see if I have my ducks in a row.

My first assumption is that all of the above species with the exception of ginkgo and possibly crataegus are able to tolerate root and branch trimming in the same growing season. Some of the stock (especially the Amur maples) are overgrown top and bottom with roots circling around their 5 gallon pots and shrubby tops. In early spring before buds actually pop would seem to me the time to trim any unnecessary top growth. This is, or seems to be, the time when all the stored up energy in the root system is getting ready to be pushed upstairs. After the newest growth has hardened off in mid to late spring would seem to be the time to repot and trim back the root system as this should be when the roots have pushed most of their stored energy out.

This all makes sense to me but unfortunately its assumption, theoretical, or based on reading a multitude of different sources. Book sense is good but I would like confirmation or refutation of these assumptions from someone with some practical, hands on know how. Am I making too broad of a generalization with this many different species? Is it better to only do top or bottom in one season as is the case with some pines?

Thanks much for any insight or advice given.

Comments (4)

lucy
17 years ago
I think you're off to a very good start! Just curious why you've 'excepted' the ginkgo and crat.?
grog76
Original Author
17 years ago
I excluded the ginkgo because I've read they don't heal branch or trunk chopping so I assume I'm left with only tip pruning to maintain size and clip and grow to train branches.
I believe I remember hawthorn are best to be left to only pruning either roots or the top growth in one season. This could be me not remembering something correctly as I can't find the references to this now. Too much information read.. not enough retained. My head 'splode!
With the juniper being substantially more vigorous than most evergreens will they take to hard pruning on top and root pruning in the same season or do they fall in the same category as most other evergreen species? And should this training be done in the spring with the deciduos trees or in full summer as recommended by Vance Wood on Scots and Mugo pines?
I've been making a reference/journal on what to do and when to do it with different species.. this info is helping to fill in some important blanks. Thanks again for any help, it's extremely appreciated.
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lucy
17 years ago
Well, the ginkgo will heal very slowly, but generally that refers to trunk scars, etc., because if you could never prune it, it would not be a bonsai for long (though it doesn't bud back like many other trees... maybe that's what you were remembering). I don't know enough about hawthorns, but your juniper can be done into late June, though I wouldn't leave it longer than that.
tenebrae
17 years ago
Typically Any design pruning,maintenance of any deciduous species I would carry out in mid winter, the reasons being a lack of viruses at this time, no rising sap. Pruning a maple for instance just prior or during bud break will result in rivers of watery-sap and possibly death to said tree, mid winter pruning avoids this. Root pruning would take place once the buds have started their growth spurt, prior to this and you short circuit the growth phase (since the roots contain the energy source removing them is counterproductive prior to this, and can bring about root rot i have noted)Larger roots can be pruned harder, finer roots less so, use your judgement in determining this better to have slightly more roots than a dead bonsai.

Rick

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