Starloc, Might it be because I accidently let that room get to cool at night for a few nights, which in turn cooled the soil at night ? I normally keep the room 65 degrees and up at night, but for a few nights, meaning at least a week, it got down into the high 50's low 60's at night. I warmed it back up again. If you say it could be a nutrient defficiency, or that the plant is upset, could it be that it took up no nutrients when soil was cold at night for a while which in turn caused the leaf problem and drop in this case? Does this make sense? I hope so. I hope it is just a matter of soil temp. I have been keeping the lights on as normal, and now that I am keeping it warmer in there at night, I hope the leaf drop stops. By the way, there is no new leaves replacing the old ones yet. All the fallen leaves are from the bottom and center of tree and through out. When I get new growth, these branches don't fill out again, I just get new growth from the top of the branches while the center stays bare. Strang ha? I am having no problems with all my other citrus other than this "lemon meyer". I am begining to think that "lemon meyers" are a very sensitive plant...lol All it seems they like is very warm conditions and very sunny conditions too. Anything other than this they seem to dislike. To me, I think they are more finicky than my gardenias. Oh well, as long as the branches don't start dying back, I hope it will fill out in summer again. Please let me know what you think ok. Thanks alot.

Hi everybody. please guide me for hydrangea. I have some potted hydrangea transplanted 50 days ago. their medium combination included peat moss, cocopeat and perlit. I want to force them for blue flowers. for two weeks they grew well and fast. after that they began turning yellow. In spite of being yellow, they were fresh. I started supplying them by half hoagland solution for two weeks every day. now my hydrangeas have got better in terms of chlorosis but some new symptoms are observed in my hydrangeas. they are not fresh. the edge of leaves have turned down. I see curving in leaves. please guide me. what is the cause of this observation?

Yes, if the interveinal chlorosis is on the lower leaves that means the mineral the plant needs is mobile ... that the plant is able to move a supply of that mineral from one place in the plant to another place in the plant. Typically, the plant will rob the mineral from the lower (spent) leaves and move it to the newer and emerging growth. The result is chlorosis in the lower leaves. If the mineral is immobile ... the plant isn't able to move the mineral from old growth to new grown ... then the new growth shows the chlorosis. The deficiency can be caused by lack of the micro-nutrient in the soil or growing medium. More often the deficiency is caused by a soil condition that injures or shuts down the roots ... like over-saturated soil from too much watering, or dried out growing medium and extreme heat scorching the root ball ... or more frequently a too acid or too alkaline soil condition that locks up the mineral making it unavailable to the roots. And interveinal chlorosis indicates micro-nutrient deficiency while general chlorosis of the lower leaves indicates nitrogen deficiency. Since you have interveinal chlorosis of the lower leaves we need to look and see which micro-nutrients are mobile ... Look Here for Deficiency Signs and Fixes (includes pictures, etc.)

Your assistance is much appreciated :) <q> Have you ever repotted or potted up (they are very different)? if 'yes', when last. Have you inspected roots to check for root rot? If you lift the tree from the pot, does the soil/root mass remain intact? How do you decide when it's time to water? How do you fertilize (with what product [include NPK %s please], how often, when last)?</q> Yes to potted up, just once - the sprouted seed was grown in the same pot for the first while and then it was replanted into it's current pot about a little under 2 years ago. I haven't taken it out of it's current pot to check the roots yet because I didn't want to stress it any further, but I will do so I just need to get up the nerve lol! It's in an organic potting mix and no doubt needs some proper fertilizer I was just never sure exactly what to give it so I erred on the conservative side as I didn't want to kill it with the wrong/or too much stuff. I have given it a measured amount of miracle grow twice a year (it's the blue stuff, I don't know the NPK sorry - we just keep it in a plastic container with the ml/liter for general purpose feeding taped on the outside. The last ferilizer would have been just before fall last year and I would normally be doing it again around now. I water all our plants once a week, give or take a day or so depending on how moist the soil is. I water them from the bottom, the Lemons pan is 1 inch deep and about 3/4 of an inch larger around than the pot. I fill the ring of the pan and let the plant suck up as much as it needs in 20 minutes. So if there is water still there after 20 mins I dump it out and if it sucks it up really fast (5 mins or less) I add a little more. Also I haven't put the plant back in the quasi-bay window since the mini-freeze-yellow-turning because it'd actually got too big for the spot and didn't fit well. It's still in the same room and about the same location but farther back from the window now in the living area so it may be missing a bit of extra direct sunshine. Alberta is known for it's crazy sunny-bright winters even though the temps drop way way down! With Easter prep and company coming and such it will be a couple of days before I could risk taking it from the pot - but when I do Al what should I look for and should I clip any roots or add fresh potting soil to the bottom? Thanx again for your suggestions and Happy Easter folks :)