I need a house herb expert, on mildew, lights, pots, and aphids.
batmanpez
14 years ago
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batmanpez
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agorhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
Thrips, Mildew, Fertilizer, in winter!
Comments (17)Thanks everyone! Linda - thanks so much for your suggestions! As for Peaches and Green - when the "suckers" in the center get bigger, do I divide them without roots? It seems that they wouldn't have roots like a regular sucker or baby plant. I definitely think that the PH is an issue. After a conversation with a friend who is a grower (not AV's) he suggested that the chloramine might be affecting the Ph, and that could be the underlining problem of a lot of things. After searching this forum, a lot of people suggest the same - that many problems clear up when the Ph is consistent and the plants get flushed semi-regularly. I flushed my plants with warm water, and they seem to be perkier now. Good start. I'm going to go get some sulfur for the mildew/blight (it could be either or both), and some bottled water and testing strips. For now, I'll water with Poland Springs, and with testing, some vinegar and baking soda, etc..., I'll start using my water again when I figure it out. Or perhaps I'll just stick to bottled water, since I don't have a huge collection. IDK - it's tough to say which one is more expensive or more of a pain. I don't think I should treat the plants. Not inside in the winter. Not with chemicals. I'm disbudding and waiting. I'll keep them disbudded for a while, and in the spring I'll treat them when I can take them outside. I threw out the 3 plants (Noid's) that had more than the others, took cuttings of some of the more "important" plants, and I have to continue and finish up this weekend. Obviously, I am learning the all important lesson about ISOLATION!!! lol It just sucks not having any flowers. That's kind of the point of these plants! Ruffles and Lace is totally stunted. I think I may have to take it totally down to the crown and try to re-root it. Perhaps the leaf to root ratio is way off now. That would make sense. I believe my Tommi Lou is perking up, could do well still. I'd like to take cuttings of LE Adagio and Sagitarius Elite, but the leaves are so unhealthy, I'd be taking down the plant, and I have no idea if the leaves will take. The plants are small, so there's not a lot of selection of leaves. These are starters that haven't done well, so I don't think the yellowing is "natural". Any suggestions? Should I take a couple of leaves and toss the plants? Probably.... I'm posting some pictures of the problems I'm having. I'm think overfertilizing with bad fertilizer (MG), but I'll be switching to the Optimara packets I have. they should last me a while. I think I have 4 or 5 packets. I have some fish emulsion, so thank you for the advice about the variegateds! I think the ph or chloramine (or both) is really an issue. I saw someone (Korina I think ) sign off as an "expert plant murderer". I am totally comforted. In 6 months, I've killed so many, and now I watch them suffer. But, there's nothing like a good hobby! I am hooked. I would order a hundred more if I could! I'm sure I will when I manage to kill these ones.... lol! My new batch from Rob's look so lovely! It was sad to trim the new buds forming. Vanilla Trail, Gundaroo, and Warm Sunshine all had several buds forming. But, alas, I want no more thrips!!! Thanks again, everyone!!! So good to get to know people! Jessica...See MoreHow many days before I can pot this one up?
Comments (10)Nancy....Take it out of that pot please....Jeff's two cents worth are far more valuable than that. You will know it has rooted once you see any growth at all on top. They need cool dry nights and cool to hot days to root quickly. It might root for you, but the chances of it rooting in a climate like Arizona or even mine are more likely. I can root just about any jade cutting within a month or two that big and any cutting smaller than that within days. I have seen them root on side walks and in places you would least expect there at my Aunts, but that was usually during your cooler drier periods. For some reason, my Aunt can't get one to root in your summer, so therefore she waits until about December before she even attempts to.lol...See MoreHow much space needed to grow herbs?
Comments (16)I think if you are a real beginning-beginner, you should forget out seeds for now. Why not get some seedlings (baby plants) from a nursery? That will give you a head start, and you can do taste-testing right away, as well as learn how to look after them. I don't know about where you live, but here in my part of the world, in the fruit/vege section of the supermarket, we can buy small herb plants in tiny pots for a reasonable price (usually tarragon, mint, basil, thyme, sage, chives). They aren't intended for growing-on, but sometimes you can be lucky if you repot them straight away. Also I suggest using your balcony for growing the plants, as long as you can protect your babies from extremes of cold and wind. I think it might be a good idea to take a tour around a local herb nursery. Don't be afraid to break off a leaf or two, crush it, smell it and taste it. Use your taste buds and nose to guide you as to which herbs you like. Remember the flavour will be quite strong, but just imagine (while your tasting) how it would go in your next stew or omelette or on your roast dinner....See MoreFood safe way to kill aphids from herbs??
Comments (21)RHIZO 1 Reasoning, there is the 'posse' which only seems to be a pest aphid, and not the beneficial insects. I didn't state that the person should release preditary insects BEFORE spraying an insecticide, but instead, place preditary insects out a week or more AFTER the spray. Aphids do respond well to pyrethrins, which is quite safe for edible plants, as is neem. The wasps mentioned are usually sent out on a postage stamp sized piece of stiff cardboard that looks like it has gray sand paper on one side. That's the wasp eggs. I have not had much luck with them, or green lacewings either. I do have early pollinators, orchard mason bees (only for very early apple blossoms), and when the cukes start showing up, a whole honey bee hive colony seems to flock to the cuke flowers every year. Had another preditor, the infamous praying mantis. They would sit at the tops of the basil plants where the flowers would emerge and wait for a honey bee to come by. A second later that pantis has his fast meal, and waits for more. I take the mantis off the basil, and the next day its back to its favorte basil spot chomping on another bee. Nope, mo mantis here anymore, even if they eat a lot! Simply hosing down the plants will remove all the aphids but just allow the aphids more clean places to chew more. Your logic is flawed, and organic gardening is something not everyone knows a lot about, unless they have been able to control an insect pests, diseases, and unknown causes to losing plants. Years ago, I tried putting out japanese beetle traps and barely would have a year go bay that the foliage on everything looked like swiss cheese. My poor raspberry leaves were nearly all chewed off as were the horsradish leaves. I tried natural sprays too, with no luck. After a 10 year battle that I was simply losing, I put down milky spore around the outer perimeters of my garden, watered in beneficial nematodes for both grubs and fungus gnats (cost me a FORTUNE!), and tried neraly every kind of pest deterrent there is, including some battery operated LEDs that light up at night and are supposed to attact moths that lay looper eggs. They caught one single beetle on a whole summer, out goes that trap! I also had a lot of striped cucumber beetles and there, I use scent lures and sticky traps nearby the cuke vines. The traps get loaded within a month and always need replecement. Same with coddling moths on my apples, and there I use scent lures and red spheres. I spend more on control of insects and disease than I do on what my produce iw worth, and I would NEVER use garden hose and spray water on my herbs, tomatoes, peppers, cukes, or any other plants. The plant only see rain water on their foliage and my soaker hoses at ground level. I even have a fig tree that does well in its 85lb pot, but is just too heavy to deal with, so in the ground it goes this fall, once the leaves drop off. You seem fixated on the words 'broad spectrum', when in fact an insect pest isn't a single entity, but is part of a BROAD SPECTRUM of insects and many are TRUE pests! A pollinator doesn't have to be a honey bee, there are a many other tiny wasps and bees that love tiny flowers like the ones on dill plants. If I were to spray my fruit trees with something like Imidan, that would kill all bees and most any other beneficials, whereas the beneficials are barely harmed, if at all by diatomatious earth and a pyrethrin. ollinators dont chew on leaves that have insect sprays applied to them....See Morebuyorsell888
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agofatamorgana2121
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14 years agolast modified: 9 years agofatamorgana2121
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agocyrus_gardner
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agobatmanpez
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agobatmanpez
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agonygardener
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14 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
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rhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7