Hi Charlie, I don't live in Maine nor does the frost here, go down four feet in winter. [but] I would think you would be wise to go that depth, at least in one area, with your excavation. You would want to also, provide method of keeping a vent hole open in the ice covering your pond over the winter. Look in the FAQ at the top of the posting page, for articles on methods of maintaining a vent hole. Or type "winterizing" into the search box and you will find lots of previous posts on the subject. "Horton"

Your orchid is a Phalaenopsis and it looks to be doing wonderfully. In the last pic I can see 2 flower spikes starting (one to left above the first leaf node and one to the right just above the mix along the main 'stem'). I think most people would have put styrofoam peanuts in the bottom instead of gravel as the styro allows for more air flow. You should water when the plant dries out, the best way to tell is by lifting the pot and checking the weight (you'll get the 'feel' for it pretty quick) but some people put a wooden skewer in the pot at all times and when pulled out and it is dry, then water. I generally water my potted phals about every 7 days. If it were my phal, I would let things be and be careful with the watering, more phals die from too much water than from too little. Good luck and good job, Bob

Butterfly, sorry, but I have to disagree with you. :) I admit, growing Gardenias indoors, especially in lower zones is not an easy task, but it's not impossible either. Emh8, follow Blutayles instructions. And if possible, invest in a humidifer and/or indoor fountain. Both can be purchased at reasonable prices.. As for additional lighting, I use a 6' workshop light. They sell ornate lighting devices, but it depends how much you want to spend. Also, if you only have one plant, you can get by with a small fixture or floor lamp. Gro Lights are a bit pricy, so if you want to save on $$ yet want something that works, get a 2-bulb fixture, one cool white and one warm white flurescent bulbs. Daily misting helps a lot. If possible, hauling the Gardenia to a sink/shower, soaking leaves, 'not soil' increases humidity. Don't overwinter your Gardenia in a hot room..nope..that's an invitation to Spider Mites..A cool room is perfect. Do you have such a room? Keep away from heating vents.. If your Gardenia has foil, remove ASAP. Some plants are sold to look, 'pretty,' but foil is a sure way to kill most plants, let alone a Gardenia. Do not fertilize during winter months..Withhold fertilizer until you notice new growth or once days grow longer. Don't bother repotting in winter. As long as its current container has drainage, and well-draining soil, it should be okay..Water your gardenia well, then wait until soil feels dry/crumbly. In spring, you can start fertilizing..I use Azalia/Rhodo fertilizer. There's more to learn, but for the time being, let's see how it does. And yes, remove yellow leaves..they will not revert to green. While removing them, check to see if they feel sticky. Any leaves that fall in soil should be lifted and tossed..Good luck, Toni

I hate to tell you this, but your lovely plant will not do well inside. Lavender needs plenty of real sunlight and other outdoor conditions in order to thrive. Spanish lavender, in particular loves the heat and humidity and can be grown in the South. Enjoy it while you can. You may want to plant it outside in a sunny location after all chance of frost is over, just to keep it alive longer. Keep making cuttings to dry and enjoy.